Thinking Of Going With A PowerPro But......????

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hdoilcan
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Thinking Of Going With A PowerPro But......????

Post by hdoilcan »

Im thinking of going with a PowerPro but I was wondering if they can be used for extended periods of time? Like maybe two-four hrs at a time. I would be using it with a router bit to trim off the edges of slab wood and then using a drum sander attachment to finish off. I'm worried about it getting to hot.... I have ruined a belt on a markv because the headstock got to hot. After that happened I had to keep shutting it down to let the headstock cool off. We have a small home bussiness so stopping to let things cool down isnt a good thing.
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forrestb
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PP handles heat pretty well

Post by forrestb »

I find that when I am sizing boards on the planer, my PP will be on at 4k to 5k for a couple of hours. It does get hot! (hotter than my Mark V head) so watch your hands.:eek:

If it gets too hot, it will shutdown (I have heard) but that hasn't happened to me - yet.:)

Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I'd rather have it shut itself down to protect from overheating than have it allow me to burn it up by over working it BUT I don't believe either should happen.

In my opinion, if it gets hot enough to force a shut down there is inadequate cooling. Too much stuff packed in too small a space with inadequate air flow.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote: . . .
In my opinion, if it gets hot enough to force a shut down there is inadequate cooling. Too much stuff packed in too small a space with inadequate air flow.

Me Too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

dusty wrote:I'd rather have it shut itself down to protect from overheating than have it allow me to burn it up by over working it BUT I don't believe either should happen.

In my opinion, if it gets hot enough to force a shut down there is inadequate cooling. Too much stuff packed in too small a space with inadequate air flow.
I firmly believe the Mark V has inadequate cooling for periods of operating time under heavy loads (thickness planer) for more than 15 minutes. Years ago, I modified a few motor pans by cutting a hole in the front of the motor pan so I could mount a longer DC motor. When I quit playing with the DC motor conversions, I put a 4" square screened louver vent (half of a 4"X8" floor vent) over these holes. I keep one of the these headstocks for myself for a few years with long periods of operating time. This headstock always remained cool and when I disassembled it later, there was no sawdust collected inside the headstock. I was only able to cut the hole in the motor pan using my 3" air powered grinder. I also have installed a few round louver vents over the LOGO access hole on the side. These headstocks appears to operate cooler but I never disassembled any of them later to check for sawdust. I sold a few of the round vent covers but never got any feedback so I quit offering them. I did have some interesting discussions with several Shopsmith engineers and QA people about the Mark V cooling during this time.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

An interesting 'observation' is that the Mark VII has both an exhaust AND an intake on the bottom of the motor pan.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

I personally have never had mine shut down over a heat issue but then I never run it that long. We have seen reports here on the forum that some people have seen the problem.

For what you are doing I wonder if you might want to take a look at the OPR. It uses a standard router which might get you better results and very likely less sanding.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... router.htm

It uses a standard router, say in the $100 + range that will take all the punishment and if it dies well it is just $100. (If the powerpro dies I'm guessing it will be way more then $100.)

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-M12VC-4-H ... chi+router

(Do note the 5-year warranty)

Either way you will be using up router bits and the investment in that will very quickly pass the cost of a router. (Based on it being used for trimming slabs, very likely needing bits in the $50 plus range....)


I don't want to second guess you too much but I'm thinking the drum sander will not be the best choice of ways to sand*. Perhaps the conical sanding disk or even a belt sander might be a better choice. Of course maybe I don't under stand what you are really doing here......

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... anding.htm

BTW the powerpro is really nice and if you can afford to get one then by all means do so. I'd add a second or third one if I could afford to. Just not sure it is the best choice for what you want to do.

Ed

*I can explain this more if you're interested.

hdoilcan wrote:Im thinking of going with a PowerPro but I was wondering if they can be used for extended periods of time? Like maybe two-four hrs at a time. I would be using it with a router bit to trim off the edges of slab wood and then using a drum sander attachment to finish off. I'm worried about it getting to hot.... I have ruined a belt on a markv because the headstock got to hot. After that happened I had to keep shutting it down to let the headstock cool off. We have a small home bussiness so stopping to let things cool down isnt a good thing.
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fredsheldon
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Overheating a PP

Post by fredsheldon »

Here is what showed up on my display after several hours of turning and sanding 5 bowls one Saturday last Summer. It was 78 in my A/C ed garage/shop. The PP never stopped but I let it cool down for about an hour and it never has displayed that message again.
[ATTACH]24671[/ATTACH]
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2013-08-04_11-13-22_64.jpg
2013-08-04_11-13-22_64.jpg (146.15 KiB) Viewed 3227 times
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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benush26
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Post by benush26 »

Since my PP came with my M7 I did not do a rebuild. Is there a fan with the the PP? If not, I wonder why. Computers have cooling fans to reduce the heat. If there is one, should it be a larger capacity? If there is not a fan, is it realistic to modify the case to accept a computer cooling fan?
Just wondering.

Be well,
Ben
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

I would suspect the reason for no fan is SS didn't want to suck dust into the internal workings.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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