Mark VII

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:58 pm

db5 wrote:[ATTACH]24707[/ATTACH]
I will send that to you. Your address?

Good Boy!!!!;)

dgreen810 · Post by **dgreen810** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:05 pm

JPG

Can I pick your brain. I received the key from heathicus and it worked perfectly after jiggling it around for a while getting it all the way in. Started the motor in forward, got a loud scraping noise, shut if off instantly, started it in reverse, same scraping noise and something fell to the bottom of the belt cover. Have to admit, I don't know if the quill turned or not.

Now the pick your brain. I went to your "light reading" thread and looked at the removal of the belt cover. I swear it looks like you have to take rack adjustment crank out to remove the cover but the next photo the cover has been removed and the rack crank and shaft is still in the headstock. Is the cover slotted underneath the rack plate where you can't see it. I am recovering from some surgery and mainly just looking right now but intend to find out what is causing the scraping noise and for sure what I heard fall to bottom of the cover.

I guess what I want to know simply is can you remove the belt cover without removing the rack spur gear and shaft??

Ah! these mysteries that confront us???

DG

dgreen810 · Post by **dgreen810** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:11 pm

wilhayesmfs

You have a PM

DG

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:32 pm

dgreen810 wrote:JPG

Can I pick your brain. I received the key from heathicus and it worked perfectly after jiggling it around for a while getting it all the way in. Started the motor in forward, got a loud scraping noise, shut if off instantly, started it in reverse, same scraping noise and something fell to the bottom of the belt cover. Have to admit, I don't know if the quill turned or not.

Now the pick your brain. I went to your "light reading" thread and looked at the removal of the belt cover. I swear it looks like you have to take rack adjustment crank out to remove the cover but the next photo the cover has been removed and the rack crank and shaft is still in the headstock. Is the cover slotted underneath the rack plate where you can't see it. I am recovering from some surgery and mainly just looking right now but intend to find out what is causing the scraping noise and for sure what I heard fall to bottom of the cover.

I guess what I want to know simply is can you remove the belt cover without removing the rack spur gear and shaft??

Ah! these mysteries that confront us???

DG

Yes

and

Yes.

The 'release' cam on the end of the shaft attached to the lever knob merely slips into a space on the gear(etc.). That cam expands that space, and pins engage/disengage holes in the gear. When the pins are retracted, the gear will be free wheeling. That allows manual headstock movement.

There are two gears - one is a spur gear that engages the rack. The other is a bevel gear that is driven by the crank. The pins mentioned above allow the two gears move together when 'engaged'.

Getting that cam end in the 'space' is one of the joys of reattaching the belt cover.

Actually it is not difficult, just easy to forget.

Be careful removing the belt cover. that may be the floating sheave spring that is 'scraping', and the retaining clip/cup that fell to the bottom. You do not want to lose any of those parts.

dgreen810 · Post by **dgreen810** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:13 pm

Gee!

I thought I could run to Walmart for any pieces that get away.

On a serious note, I went to Regal Plastics few days ago and picked up some Nylon sheet, 3/8" x 6" x 40". Made a sliding table using my old Incra jig and two mitre bars to slide in the slots of my homemade router table using a extra SS 510 table. Intent is to use part of the old nylon rack like a finger joint as redleg did. Did the extra ones he sent you work? Do you have any do's and don'ts you will share?

DG

db5 · Post by **db5** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 9:53 pm

Donald, when you come over to pick up some stuff remind me to give you a couple of things I made to remove the sheaves on the motor. It is hard to do without them and dangerous. Balls in your court. (Obama's are in Putin's pocket). If I remember (unlikely) I'll put them with the other stuff. When you are 525 years old the ability to remember from one day to the next. Those are dog years but some of life has been a bitch.

rcplaneguy · Post by **rcplaneguy** » Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:48 pm

dgreen810 wrote:Gee!

I thought I could run to Walmart for any pieces that get away.

On a serious note, I went to Regal Plastics few days ago and picked up some Nylon sheet, 3/8" x 6" x 40". Made a sliding table using my old Incra jig and two mitre bars to slide in the slots of my homemade router table using a extra SS 510 table. Intent is to use part of the old nylon rack like a finger joint as redleg did. Did the extra ones he sent you work? Do you have any do's and don'ts you will share?

DG

Instead of a router bit I wonder if a table saw could work. Tilting the table first one way, then the other way to make the grooves between teeth. Would need a modified box joint jig?

dgreen810 · Post by **dgreen810** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:25 am

John

Instead of a router bit I wonder if a table saw could work. Tilting the table first one way, then the other way to make the grooves between teeth. Would need a modified box joint jig?

I don't think you thought it through? In order to do what I think you imply, the table would need to be tilted to 90 degrees unless I am missing something.

Is there anyone on this forum that can attach schematics of a MK II (Parts breakdown) to an email? I have looked around online but can't seem to find a manual showing the schematics.

My email address is chknspit@cox.net

DG

rcplaneguy · Post by **rcplaneguy** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:24 pm

dgreen810 wrote:John

Instead of a router bit I wonder if a table saw could work. Tilting the table first one way, then the other way to make the grooves between teeth. Would need a modified box joint jig?

I don't think you thought it through? In order to do what I think you imply, the table would need to be tilted to 90 degrees unless I am missing something.

Is there anyone on this forum that can attach schematics of a MK II (Parts breakdown) to an email? I have looked around online but can't seem to find a manual showing the schematics.

My email address is chknspit@cox.net

DG

Since I don't own a MK VII I probably don't understand the exact part, but I read the thread on the plastic rack fabrication with a pointed router bit. Here is a fellow making round gears with his table saw, I would think a flat rack gear would be far easier.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tDqc5xMM5cA

dgreen810 · Post by **dgreen810** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:02 pm

John

Very interesting. Will give some thought and watch some of the videos.

Attached is a couple of pictures of my old Incra jig rigged as a sliding table. Haven't attached the fence setup to attempt to cut the nylon rack.

[ATTACH][ATTACH]24726[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Thanks for the link

DG