Motor Just humms

[JPG]

Go back to post 80. I questioned the need to remove the speed control. i.e. I agree with Linda.

Did you separate the idler shaft/bearing from the eccentric?

["Wild Bad Bob"]

No I did not separate them, they all moved together, maybe that is why the speed controller was in the way?

[JPG]

No I did not separate them, they all moved together, maybe that is why the speed controller was in the way?

By removing the eccentric, you gain ability to move the shaft more. The control sheave can be removed creating even more 'space'.

Removing the speed control would increase that space even further though I do not think it necessary.

The belt must go on from the eccentric/bearing end.

["Wild Bad Bob"]

I removed the control sheave and the speed contol, shaft is out. For the upper shaft, to get it out should I pound on the bearing or the female splined shaft? Of course I will use something softer then steel if I pound on the shaft.

[JPG]

I removed the control sheave and the speed contol, shaft is out. For the upper shaft, to get it out should I pound on the bearing or the female splined shaft? Of course I will use something softer then steel if I pound on the shaft.

The shaft has a hollow end. A 1/2" rod will slip into that. Steel will work. You need that shock force. Bill uses a ground r-bar. I use a 1/2" grounding electrical grounding rod. He cuts his off to 2 feet. I leave mine 6 ft long.

Direction of force is important. Hence my long bar!;)

Warm up the casting around the bearing bores. Not hot!!!!

["Wild Bad Bob"]

Thanks on the heat wrench tip!!!! If I got it right JPG, you insert the 1/2diam drift into the female part of the shaft like the male spline would go and start banging!!!!!!!!LOL

[wa2crk]

This is in the FWIW category. I use a piece of closet pole through the quill opening and against the drive sleeve and strike lightly. If it is still difficult to move use progressively firmer taps. Remember that cast aluminum breaks easily!! Penetrating oil will sometimes make life easier. The aluminum won't rust but the bearings can and will sieze the bearing race to the casting.
Bill V

[JPG]

Thanks on the heat wrench tip!!!! If I got it right JPG, you insert the 1/2diam drift into the female part of the shaft like the male spline would go and start banging!!!!!!!!LOL

Pretty much, but read the previous post re increasing force. Tap first and only 'bang' if necessary.

Yes there is risk of 'fracturing'. That is why 'directed' force is crucial.

["Wild Bad Bob"]

Long day in the rebuild shop!!!! Plus a trip to the Cardio Dr to break up the day. I had a A Fluter heart, was A Fib but went to fluter, he shocked into normal rythme about 10 days ago. I feel GREAT again!!!!
Update on the bearing removal, first off, I am a retired/disability mechanical engineer of 20 years for our local electical utility, then my own residintial remodeling business for 15 years after that, hands on. When I was in college at Milwaukee School of Engineering I worked at Harley Davidson in the tool and die department as a assistant. I am fenese person, if it aint doing what you want it to, stop, think, look at it in another way, rethink and proceed with caution. Just so you know a little about me and my thought process. I AM NOT A HAMMER MECHANIC!!!!!!!!!!!! And have so much experience in mechanical things that I know when something is not right, or how to strecth the rules beyound the limits!! Lots of in/for sight!!! But the nuns could not teach me how to spell!!!
So, picked up a piece of 1/2"diam steel rod, inserted into the female spindle splined shaft, instead of using a plastic head malit which I was using, got out a BFH, and a couple of "smart hits" the bearings/shaft moved, then a few more light taps and it "came a coming", and whined, "dont, stop" or was it "dont stop"? then as the outer bearing showed up I cleaned up the dried gum on them, tapped the rear bearing through the front housing easily. No need for the heat wrench, which I was going to be cautious to use, plus I have not used it for a decade, I only have a cutting tip and a sodering tip, no rose bud, so that was not an option.
There is a taveren/pub by my house and there are some regulars that stop in there after work, I have been there for about 7 years a few times after work, well "Joey" a regular owns a "Bearing Inc franchise, which is 2 miles from there, and my house, well I called him this AM, told him what I was working on and said "no problem", I went there with the shaft and bearings and he fixed me up for $20.00, the bearings that were in there Bill Mayo, were metal shieled, better for high heat applications, from info on another thread here, a bearing rep said, "rubber shielded are better for dusty situations, so bought that type, anyway they will out live me no matter what type they are!!! So Joey reffered me to a auto tranmission shop a mile away that would pull the old and reset the new ones, another $20. A GREAT DAY!!!!!!!!!!
Now that I have the quill out, it looks like there is at least 1 set of bearings in there, and turning the head stock of the quill it is not smooth. Is there bearings in there? If so I will replace them too, but how to get them out friends?
The Delta TS repaint/mouse piss rust looks great, then on to the rust bucket Buffolo jointer, cast iron rust up so easy, buts cleans up so easy!!!!
Thanks , Bob
PS will be changing name here, on many forums and always put my name here, RBursek, instead of some fancy/egotistic one, but will have both for a bit till everyone figures out it is the same person. I wish pics of the person would be here to put a name to a face, Not just some hat like on the TV series "Justified" on FX down in KT with Fed Marshalls were he wears a Stutson like JPG!!!!LOL!!!!

["Wild Bad Bob"]

Long day in the rebuild shop!!!! Plus a trip to the Cardio Dr to break up the day. I had a A Fluter heart, was A Fib but went to fluter, he shocked into normal rythme about 10 days ago. I feel GREAT again!!!!
Update on the bearing removal, first off, I am a retired/disability mechanical engineer of 20 years for our local electical utility, then my own residintial remodeling business for 15 years after that, hands on. When I was in college at Milwaukee School of Engineering I worked at Harley Davidson in the tool and die department as a assistant. I am fenese person, if it aint doing what you want it to, stop, think, look at it in another way, rethink and proceed with caution. Just so you know a little about me and my thought process. I AM NOT A HAMMER MECHANIC!!!!!!!!!!!! And have so much experience in mechanical things that I know when something is not right, or how to strecth the rules beyound the limits!! Lots of in/for sight!!! But the nuns could not teach me how to spell!!!
So, picked up a piece of 1/2"diam steel rod, inserted into the female spindle splined shaft, instead of using a plastic head malit which I was using, got out a BFH, and a couple of "smart hits" the bearings/shaft moved, then a few more light taps and it "came a coming", and whined, "dont, stop" or was it "dont stop"? then as the inner/rear bearing showed up I cleaned up the dried gum on the outer perimeter, tapped the rear bearing through the front housing easily. No need for the heat wrench, which I was going to be cautious to use, plus I have not used it for a decade, I only have a cutting tip and a sodering tip, no rose bud, so that was not an option.
There is a taveren/pub by my house and there are some regulars that stop in there after work, I have been there for about 7 years a few times after work, well "Joey" a regular owns a "Bearing Inc franchise, which is 2 miles from there, and my house, well I called him this AM, told him what I was working on and said "no problem", I went there with the shaft and bearings and he fixed me up for $20.00, the bearings that were in there Bill Mayo, were metal shieled, better for high heat applications, from info on another thread here, a bearing rep said, "rubber shielded are better for dusty situations, so bought that type, anyway they will out live me no matter what type they are!!! So Joey reffered me to a auto tranmission shop a mile away that would pull the old and reset the new ones, another $20. A GREAT DAY!!!!!!!!!!
Now that I have the quill out, it looks like there is at least 1 set of bearings in there, and turning the head stock of the quill it is not smooth. Is there bearings in there? If so I will replace them too, but how to get them out friends?
The Delta TS repaint/mouse piss rust looks great, then on to the rust bucket Buffolo jointer, cast iron rust up so easy, buts cleans up so easy!!!!
Thanks , Bob
PS will be changing name here, on many forums and always put my name here, RBursek, instead of some fancy/egotistic one, but will have both for a bit till everyone figures out it is the same person. I wish pics of the person would be here to put a name to a face, Not just some hat like on the TV series "Justified" on FX down in KT with Fed Marshalls were he wears a Stutson like JPG!!!!LOL!!!!