I agree on where to stand. I found that using the outter 1-2 inches of the conical disc sandpaper prevented my rounding the ends of the knifes. My instruction sheet for the conical disk says not to tilt the table for this task. On all the knifes I have sharpen, the conical sander disc cuts all the way across the edge of the knifes at the first pass so the 0 table angle looks correct to me. I do tilt the table for wood sanding.
Bill Mayo
[quote="s.henderson"]Hi dustywooworker]
jointer/planer knife sharpening guide
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Sharpening jointer/planer knives
Hey Scott,
Regarding the jointer knife sharpener: Use the conical sander with the table flat. Do NOT set the table to the 4 degrees if you want to achieve the proper clearances/angle for the knives. As mentioned in one of the other replies, move the table and headstock all the way to the right side so you can stand at the end of the machine so not to make a sweeping motion. This way you can have both hands on the handles securely and better body balance. Keep the fixture tight against fence through the pass across the disk.
For set-up: With the machine off, move the disk until there is a slight drag on the on the knives (just enough to move the disk). This gives you a starting point for the initial pass. Take a black "Magic Marker" and cover the edges of the blades to be sharpened so you can see when you have removed the black marker from the knives, they are sharpened completely. Use your "rotary ruler" (depth gauge on the feed stop) and move it only a slight amount for the NEXT pass. Remember, each line is 1/16th of an inch. Move it only 1/64" or 1/32" maximum for each pass. You only want to remove enough material to sharpen and not foreshorten the life of the blades. You may have to make more than 2 passes to remove the "nicks". Take it slow and easy.
I hope this makes it a l'il bit easier for you. The sharpening fixture works real well for planer blades, also.
The old blades make good scrapers and you can make a handle of your own design to hold them in.
Regarding the jointer knife sharpener: Use the conical sander with the table flat. Do NOT set the table to the 4 degrees if you want to achieve the proper clearances/angle for the knives. As mentioned in one of the other replies, move the table and headstock all the way to the right side so you can stand at the end of the machine so not to make a sweeping motion. This way you can have both hands on the handles securely and better body balance. Keep the fixture tight against fence through the pass across the disk.
For set-up: With the machine off, move the disk until there is a slight drag on the on the knives (just enough to move the disk). This gives you a starting point for the initial pass. Take a black "Magic Marker" and cover the edges of the blades to be sharpened so you can see when you have removed the black marker from the knives, they are sharpened completely. Use your "rotary ruler" (depth gauge on the feed stop) and move it only a slight amount for the NEXT pass. Remember, each line is 1/16th of an inch. Move it only 1/64" or 1/32" maximum for each pass. You only want to remove enough material to sharpen and not foreshorten the life of the blades. You may have to make more than 2 passes to remove the "nicks". Take it slow and easy.
I hope this makes it a l'il bit easier for you. The sharpening fixture works real well for planer blades, also.
The old blades make good scrapers and you can make a handle of your own design to hold them in.
Life is a chip at a time, 
Spike13
Spike13
There is a note on page 4 of the sharpeniing guide manual thar states that the table MUST NOT be tilted 4 degrees as described in the Conical Sanding Disk owners manual for sharpening.batg4 wrote:I have only used mine once to sharpen my 4" jointer blades, with no problems. However, I can imagine that with longer blades it could be easy to rock the ends out a little unless you are real careful. Unless you can tell that the guide is defective, then I would have to agree with the earlier post that said it's probably technique. So as not to ruin the knives further, can you find a strip of metal to practice with? Also, although I don't think this is your problem, for anyone reading this that has a sharpening guide, remember that the table must be tilted 4 degrees left for the conical sanding disk to work correctly. That goes for sharpening and sanding.
I have used mine numerous times without having the problem being discussed so I am not sure what the problem might be.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
As far as adjustments for more than one pass with the sharpener, I have the adjustable stop collar on my main table. I just lower the table by turning the stop collar about 1/8 of a turn (1/128" down) and make another pass. It seems to me to be much more precise than moving the quill.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
That's a neat idea! Thanks.jsburger wrote:As far as adjustments for more than one pass with the sharpener, I have the adjustable stop collar on my main table. I just lower the table by turning the stop collar about 1/8 of a turn (1/128" down) and make another pass. It seems to me to be much more precise than moving the quill.
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
sharpening guide
The instructions do state to lower the table as apposed to moveing the quil forword. This I did. Also I kept the table level at first so this is not my problem with over sharpened ends. I only tilted the table 4 degrees after seeing that I was not sharpening the entire surface of the cutting edge, I was only putting a secondary bevel on the ground edge, witch is OK because I prefer a second micro bevel. It only takes a couple of swipes to hone it sharp again. After honeing 4 or 5 times, or after hitting a nail, it will be time to regrind the primary bevel then put a secondary bevel on the blade again.
I think I will take the advice of Spike13 and jsburger and make sure I remove only a slight amount at a time. I am thinking this may be my problem. I have done everything else according to the manual.
I think I will take the advice of Spike13 and jsburger and make sure I remove only a slight amount at a time. I am thinking this may be my problem. I have done everything else according to the manual.
[quote="s.henderson"]Hi every one]
I may have the solution to your problem (and mine). The spring washers may have forced the blade out slightly away from the firm blade base of the jig. I finally tried out my sharpening guide today. First time! And was thinking about your concern.
I sharpend jointer blades. In sliding all three into the jig, I found that one blade (in my case the left one) hung up on something and wouldn't slide completely to the left. Removed blades and sighted down the slot. The two spring washers were protruding into the slot supposedly reserved for blades. So I fooled with the washers to get them back inside the slot. They wouldn't completely stay out of the way. I removed the washers and the jig worked just fine. Next time I will remove the entire clamp and lift the washers above the blades before installing the top clamp.
Hope this was your problem!
Best wishes, Charlese
I may have the solution to your problem (and mine). The spring washers may have forced the blade out slightly away from the firm blade base of the jig. I finally tried out my sharpening guide today. First time! And was thinking about your concern.
I sharpend jointer blades. In sliding all three into the jig, I found that one blade (in my case the left one) hung up on something and wouldn't slide completely to the left. Removed blades and sighted down the slot. The two spring washers were protruding into the slot supposedly reserved for blades. So I fooled with the washers to get them back inside the slot. They wouldn't completely stay out of the way. I removed the washers and the jig worked just fine. Next time I will remove the entire clamp and lift the washers above the blades before installing the top clamp.
Hope this was your problem!
Best wishes, Charlese