Questions: Sharpening kits?

[shydragon]

I've been looking through the Father's Day Catalog and wanted to buy items related to sharpening. My thought was to buy the sharpening kit for lathe tools, which includes 12" disc and the sharpner. I already have one disc and just recently I ordered the conical sanding disc kit. Should I order just the sharpner, and can the conical disc be used to sharpen?

Also, I wanted to order the jointer/planar sharpner.

Any thoughts or recommendations, would be greatly appreciated.

[RobertTaylor]

the conical disk is used to sharpen planer and/or jointer knives. lathe chisels and/or shaper cutters use a flat disk for sharpening.,Bob

[charlese]

Hi Pat! Just wanted to confirm what Bob has told you. He said it in a lot less words than I could have.

[crousetrodomis]

Okay, here's some input and its going to be slightly against the norm. A couple of years ago I bought the shopsmith tool sharpening jig, alum.ox. sanding disc's, the complete works. Now with that being said, i've used it once and have been thinking about placing it, (the jig) on e-bay. I spend a hair bit of money and INVESTED on a worksharp (3000). GRANTED, its not a huge elaborate or even really expensive sharpening system BUT it does a great job on all my irons, turning tools and chisels. I just recently bought a Stanley #8 jointing plane so now i'm setting up to build a jig for hand sharpening, (the iron on that is a beast compaired to my #2-5 Stanleys) using the "very scary sharp" method. I really support ShopSmith but I did not have any good luck with their sharpening system but believe if I had given it more time it might have worked out. (I just believe the WorkSharp 3000 is the most versital sharpener on the market and is very handy to both set up and maintain).

**My advise, look at the ShopSmith stuff, look at the WorkSharp, then buy the WorkSharp (you'll thank me for it)**

Nick,
I've been looking at this hand jig that I have been thinking about building from an article in a popular woodworking book I bought a couple of months back when I knew that I was going to be in the hospital with the birth of my Son. Soon after I posted this I thought to myself: "Hey, I think I remember reading that there was a web site to find more information about that thing......." LOW AND FREAKING BEHOLD YOU WROTE THE ARTICLE!!!!!! Sorry, I was just amazed at the star power you have!!!! The book is titled "Hand Tool Essentials" by the Editors of Popular Woodworking. THANKS (since buying that book, i've been buying new and antique hand tools, tuning them up and having lots of fun) By the way, in your article you mentioned using marble but I ran across a 1/2 inch sink cutout of glass.......would that be good enough??

[dickg1]

[quote="crousetrodomis"] . . . I spend a hair bit of money and INVESTED on a worksharp (3000). GRANTED, its not a huge elaborate or even really expensive sharpening system BUT it does a great job on all my irons, turning tools and chisels . . . (I just believe the WorkSharp 3000 is the most versital sharpener on the market and is very handy to both set up and maintain).

**My advise, look at the ShopSmith stuff, look at the WorkSharp, then buy the WorkSharp ]

I have the WorkSharp 3000 and highly recommend it. Had it set up and was sharpening chisels within an hour and a half. It comes with a DVD that provides the basics and from that point it is virtually intuitive. I looked long and hard at the Shopsmith methods and decided the WS 3000 was the better choice (for me).

[brown_hawk]

I had more luck with the strip sander sharpening setup for my lathe tools, but I went to the Tormek for the planer blade sharpener and added the various jigs available for it. That was well before the Workshop 3000 came out. The Tormek is a wet system, so there is less chance of taking the temper out of your tools. The WS3000 is a dry system, as is the SS. Dry works fine, just be careful of heating the blade. I like wet better. Either can be a mess if you don't set up for it.

If you are watching your money, the SS system is the better way to go. If you move on, the disks will be usable for non-sharpening activities. As always, the key is careful setup, and careful application. Things will go slow until you get used to the system, then your speed will improve. And protect the way tubes at all times.

You've got plenty of choices, so look at them before you decide.

Hawk

[Ed in Tampa]

I think every one wants sharp. However sharp comes with a price, we have to develop the skill to achieve sharp. I watched a old time craftsman keep it tools razor sharp (seriously scary sharp) with nothing more than folded up sand paper and the thigh of his pants, though I do think I saw him strop his tool on the side of the heel of his boot once or twice.

He had developed an eye, he could look at the edge and know whether it was sharp or not. He developed a sense for angles he could hold the tool at the right angle needed for the task at hand and sharpen the tool to that angle.

I think too many of us try to subsititute developing a skill with buying something that is foolproof. That is fine but the makers of these foolproof methods charge exorbitant prices for that convenience. Also if you never develop the skill and your away from your magical sharpening appliance and you need a tool sharpened you are up the creek.

I love the SS sharpening guide as it helps me define the correct angle I need and then I switch to the wet dry sand paper. I can touch up the edge quickly and easily even when I'm out of the shop.

Years ago I bought some Japanese wet stones. Paid big bucks for them and they really do a nice job but I can now do the same job starting first with the SS sharpening guide to establish angle and then switch to a piece of sand paper. I don't have to soak my stones, level my stones, grade my stones and I didn't pay $55 a stone to get the setup.

By the way since you have to get the right paper for your sanding disk to properly use the SS sharpening guide you also have the ability to put a super nice edge on your lawn mower blades. The money and time I saved on either sending my blades out to be sharpened or filing them myself has more than paid for the tool.
Ed

[kd6vpe]

Ed,
Well put. I have the SS sharpening guide and have achieved a great edge on my new lathe chisels once so far. Since then I have been struggling to accomplish the same task again. It does take time and repetition to get it down. When I went to the TA I watched Rick do it and it looked so easy. HA HA. I know I will get there I just have to keep trying.

[ryanbp01]

I use both the chisel sharpening guide with the strip sander and the Worksharp 3000 for sharpening my lathe chisels. While I use the strip sander to sharpen after a lathe session, I prefer to use the Worksharp for the simple reason I don't have to change setups. Plus the Worksharp 3000doesn't seem to generate the heat which could take the temper out of the chisel. I will have to admit that while I have the jointer, I have only used it once. But I do have the setup to sharpen the jointer knives when the need arises. By the way you can also use the Worksharp to sharpen regular knives as well.


BPR

[Nick]

"...you mentioned using marble but I ran across a 1/2 inch sink cutout of glass.......would that be good enough??"

Sure. Anything reasonably flat.

With all good wishes,