Strip sander questions

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rte66
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Strip sander questions

Post by rte66 »

Reworking an old ('80s-ish) strip sander. From using the 'search' function, I guess I am lucky to have steel idlers with bearings, vice the plastic version, but my question is this, the accompanying 'strip' appears to be a felted material with some polishing compound type material on the surface. That, combined with the waxy deposits I cleaned from the inside of the case, leads me to believe its for buffing. Checked the online catalog, but did find a similar item. Was this an stock item that they no longer carry?

Also don't understand the function of the front idler, which sits behind the platen.

Thanks
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

rte66 wrote:Reworking an old ('80s-ish) strip sander. From using the 'search' function, I guess I am lucky to have steel idlers with bearings, vice the plastic version, but my question is this, the accompanying 'strip' appears to be a felted material with some polishing compound type material on the surface. That, combined with the waxy deposits I cleaned from the inside of the case, leads me to believe its for buffing. Checked the online catalog, but did find a similar item. Was this an stock item that they no longer carry?

Also don't understand the function of the front idler, which sits behind the platen.

Thanks
I am not sure but could the 'felted' belt be a leather belt.These can be purchased from third parties.

The front idler works with the rear idler (after the rear idler has been repositioned to its forward position) for sanding inside of a closed shape. The belt is threaded through the part and remounted on the upper wheel. Check your manual as it covers this operation.
Rob in San Diego
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rte66
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Wish I had a manual . . .

Post by rte66 »

Wasn't in the box of pieces, parts I got.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

rte66 wrote:Wasn't in the box of pieces, parts I got.

Wood almost bet ya didn't get all THREE platens either.:eek:
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
rte66
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Post by rte66 »

Now there you'd lose; have a curved, a 1" flat and a half inch flat.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

AHHH BUT it was a safe bet because USUALLY the only one ya get is the one ON the sander.:)
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
charlese
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Post by charlese »

rte66 wrote:Reworking an old ('80s-ish) strip sander. From using the 'search' function, I guess I am lucky to have steel idlers with bearings, vice the plastic version, but my question is this, the accompanying 'strip' appears to be a felted material with some polishing compound type material on the surface. That, combined with the waxy deposits I cleaned from the inside of the case, leads me to believe its for buffing. Checked the online catalog, but did find a similar item. Was this an stock item that they no longer carry?

Also don't understand the function of the front idler, which sits behind the platen.

Thanks
Yes!!! You're lucky to have steel idler wheels. I've had to replace several plastic ones due to both outside surface wear and axle wear. I use the strip sander a lot in finishing toy cars. Sometimes the sander will run for an hour without stopping. Those plastic wheels just will not hold up to this stress. Yes, although I oil the axle bolts before each use, after the wear has multiplied over time, the wheels just can't take it any more. Last week, I melted a wheel around the axle in just twenty minutes. More wheels are on backorder and won't be in until end of May.

Enough of my complaints. :o

The upper wheel is used to re-route the sand strip to do inside sanding. You will also need a short platen that has no upper connection, and you need to move the lower idler to the lower front position. Origional equipment includes a short platten that is also curved rather than flat. Here is a video showing this operation. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Sander.htm

As I found, this is not a good operation to do with plastic idlers, because the sand surface rolls across the idler and wears it down quite fast. The front idler makes a good storage place until it's time to replace the lower, back idler.

You may have a cloth belt for buffing. I've never seen one. I do have a leather belt that is used often for stropping knives and chisels. I use both the rough and smooth sides of the leather, like they used to do in barber shops.

All in all, the strip sander is a great tool except for those plastic idlers.
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

charlese wrote:Yes!!! You're lucky to have steel idler wheels. I've had to replace several plastic ones due to both outside surface wear and axle wear. I use the strip sander a lot in finishing toy cars. Sometimes the sander will run for an hour without stopping. Those plastic wheels just will not hold up to this stress. Yes, although I oil the axle bolts before each use, after the wear has multiplied over time, the wheels just can't take it any more. Last week, I melted a wheel around the axle in just twenty minutes. More wheels are on backorder and won't be in until end of May.

Enough of my complaints. :o

The upper wheel is used to re-route the sand strip to do inside sanding. You will also need a short platen that has no upper connection, and you need to move the lower idler to the lower front position. Origional equipment includes a short platten that is also curved rather than flat. Here is a video showing this operation. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Sander.htm

As I found, this is not a good operation to do with plastic idlers, because the sand surface rolls across the idler and wears it down quite fast. The front idler makes a good storage place until it's time to replace the lower, back idler.

You may have a cloth belt for buffing. I've never seen one. I do have a leather belt that is used often for stropping knives and chisels. I use both the rough and smooth sides of the leather, like they used to do in barber shops.

All in all, the strip sander is a great tool except for those plastic idlers.
Since you obviously have a shopsmith why not turn an idler from wood. I'm guessing it would last nearly as long as a steel one.

If you wanted to insure long life turn it and then press two bearings into an enlarged axle hole, that have inside diameters sized for the axle. Should last a life time.

You could also turn the idler then go to ace hardware and get a bronze bushing that has an inside diameter that fits your axle and then just drill the axle hole big enough that you can press fit the bushing. Again it would probably last forever.
Ed in Tampa
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

Excellent idea, Ed! Many thanks:D

The plastic idler wheels from Shopsmith have brass bushings pressed into the wheel. The brass heats up enough to melt the plastic, even with frequent oiling. The manual says to oil with two drops every 10 hours. I do it before every operation.

Wood, especially maple wouldn't melt. Might burn a little, but not melt.

Thanks again! Wish I had thought of that!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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nuhobby
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Wood wheels....

Post by nuhobby »

Before making your wood wheels, you may want to look at my old thread and "don't do what I did".... Some variable or another may need to be changed. Crowned wood wheels didn't work out so well:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9204
Chris
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