Value of Greenie

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rbursek wrote:Teacherman, the table insert/rest is under the binder, band saws are more costly used by 2x then a little toy 4" jointer at ebay prices. AND, give TM a cigar, that was the point of my post on the 2 in Milw I was refering to. AND the piano story!!! Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.
The 'problem' with 'toy 4" jointers is the shipping weight!:eek:

If it were truly a toy, it would not weigh so much.]joint [/U]an edge wider than 4"?:D

It ain't a surface planer.:rolleyes:
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

JPg, lots of SS and assesories, around here this morning from 175.00 rough basic goldie to 875.00 with BS and Jointer.
Okay I feel feisty this morning, and need to defend myself. JPG what is the first step in taking a rough sawn board and 4 side surfacing it? Making it flat and parallel on both sides and the same on both edges, edges 90* to the faces.
1st, surface 1 side on a jointer till it is flat, 2nd, put that flat face against a jointers fence and joint the edge till flat and 90* to finished face. 3rd, run board in a surface planer to get other face flat and parallel to the jointed face. 4th, rip other ruff edge on TS with the jointed edge against the fence. Now you have a 4SS board. So the jointer must be wide enough to accommodate the width of the board to face it, planer must be wide enough to accommodate width of board, TS must have enough room/separation between blade and fence to accommodate width of board, jointer and TS should have a table long enough in length to accommodate the length of the board. That was why I made the comment about the 4" jointer being a "toy". Its limitations are its narrow width to face a board and short table/s to accommodate a long board stably. Good thing I had my coffee,LOL!!!!!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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rcplaneguy
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Post by rcplaneguy »

I personally think 4" jointer is plenty. Would I like a bigger one? Sure, but I'll never have that sort of space. What other jointer can fit under the SS like this one? That is a major reason to own a SS to begin with (compact).

Image

Doug Reid has a good video about why a 4" jointer is enough. To fight cupping and movement, it is best to assemble table tops from glued up narrow boards (e.g. 3.5" wide). Keeps you from having to plane so much thickness away to remove the cup, more stable over time.

http://youtu.be/k19jzpEuFl4
John
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

RCplane,
I totally agree with all you said, just posted this on the wood worker site here.
"talked to a custom table maker, sez everyone wants as wide as possible boards in there table tops when they talk to him, he uses nothing over 4" wide for finished stability of the table top".
The SS jointer does well for what it is in size, and many dont buy/have axcess to rough sawn lumber, it comes 4SS anyway.
A SS 4" is fine for edging of course, and you can make extension table/fence for it, just wanted to mess with JPG a bit!!LOL JPG.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
teacherman
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Post by teacherman »

teacherman wrote:Are you near Kansas City?
I just read your earlier post. I guess not.

I am looking forward to the arrival of my lather drive spur and drill press vise, and I have my first project lined up. My wife's coworker has a piano bench with a broken leg, and with the vise I will be able to drill out the short 3/4" dowel and replace it. Horizontal drill press! What a deal.

I will post pics of the first project when the time comes.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rbursek wrote:RCplane,
I totally agree with all you said, just posted this on the wood worker site here.
"talked to a custom table maker, sez everyone wants as wide as possible boards in there table tops when they talk to him, he uses nothing over 4" wide for finished stability of the table top".
The SS jointer does well for what it is in size, and many dont buy/have axcess to rough sawn lumber, it comes 4SS anyway.
A SS 4" is fine for edging of course, and you can make extension table/fence for it, just wanted to mess with JPG a bit!!LOL JPG.
Mess all you want.:) As a former badger(twice removed), I can well take it!:D

You ain't playing fair!:rolleyes: That 'stuff' you described is at least two operations beyond 'jointing'. Before you can 'joint' an edge, yes the face(s) must be flat.

FWIW, if a 'board' has too much wind etc. it is not a viable candidate for jointing into a flat top. But one must use what one has!;)

All 4ss means to me is 4 surfaces are 'smooth' and not 'rough'. Flat and square are a different thingie.:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

JPG, I would not if I did not think you could and glad you take it as intended, just humor!!!! Where up here? I live in a NW burb of Milw., Germantown.
I apologize I used the wrong word "toy". Yesterday, as in the last few, I was in the shop refurbishing a rust bucket of a 6" x 48" free standing jointer, coming along fine. Anyway durring the day derusting and polishing, I was thinking/reflecting about my choice of words, as I have to walk around my SS with the 4" jointer mounted on it. It is not a toy, my nephew bought a 5" table top craftsman jointer, basically made out of all sheet metal, that is a toy!!! The SS jointer is well made, and for the size it is, is very useful, as long as you can work within its size limitations. Those are the words I should have used. Even my 6" x 48" floor model has limitations, all relative to the size of material you commonly work with. Thats why they make some 6"+ ones with 6' length tables too.
With that said, my "Motor just Humms" thread is on hold, new bearings are on the upper spindle but need to be installed after I change the power cord in a week.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

rbursek wrote:JPG, I would not if I did not think you could and glad you take it as intended, just humor!!!! Where up here? I live in a NW burb of Milw., Germantown.
I apologize I used the wrong word "toy". Yesterday, as in the last few, I was in the shop refurbishing a rust bucket of a 6" x 48" free standing jointer, coming along fine. Anyway durring the day derusting and polishing, I was thinking/reflecting about my choice of words, as I have to walk around my SS with the 4" jointer mounted on it. It is not a toy, my nephew bought a 5" table top craftsman jointer, basically made out of all sheet metal, that is a toy!!! The SS jointer is well made, and for the size it is, is very useful, as long as you can work within its size limitations. Those are the words I should have used. Even my 6" x 48" floor model has limitations, all relative to the size of material you commonly work with. Thats why they make some 6"+ ones with 6' length tables too.
With that said, my "Motor just Humms" thread is on hold, new bearings are on the upper spindle but need to be installed after I change the power cord in a week.
Tongue in cheek humor is something I understand fer sure(both directions).

True the word 'toy' did rankle the hairs on the back of my neck.;)

Explanation 'accepted'(as if it 'mattered':D)

La Crosse for K - 5 1/2 and Darlington for grade 12 and Madison for '13'.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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