Phillsam;
The centrifugal switch is located inside the motor most of the time. The unfortunate about lubrication is that the SS instructions do not say how muvh to lube it when used as a lathe. If you do a lot of sanding of your lathe work you may want to shorten up on Beeg's recommendation of ten hours. I would go for 5 or less. Sanding dust is a lot finer than normal lathe shavings and will be sucked into the headstock a lot easier.
Bill V
Help diagnosing my problem
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
And follow Bill Mayo's suggestion of 10 drops(or more!).
I am fairly sure the start switch contacts are not closing. That could be caused by crud between the points or the centrifugal actuator sticking.
Beat the hell out of it with a rubber faced hammer in various locations and with the headstock in different positions. Hard enough to jar things, but not so hard as to bend metal!:eek:
If that is not successful, taking the motor out and ,maybe taking it apart are next.
I am fairly sure the start switch contacts are not closing. That could be caused by crud between the points or the centrifugal actuator sticking.
Beat the hell out of it with a rubber faced hammer in various locations and with the headstock in different positions. Hard enough to jar things, but not so hard as to bend metal!:eek:
If that is not successful, taking the motor out and ,maybe taking it apart are next.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
You guys are so great!
I jumped to worrying that the motor was done for.
Opened her up last night and after removing the belt, I lowered the bottom piece holding the motor, gave everything a good dusting/cleaning.
She's alive again! I couldnt be more relieved.
I was going to start lubricate all the necessary areas but wanted to confirm the type of lube.
What are you guys using?
I have Air Tool lubricant (the kind that you add a few drops into the tool)
Will that work?
I jumped to worrying that the motor was done for.
Opened her up last night and after removing the belt, I lowered the bottom piece holding the motor, gave everything a good dusting/cleaning.
She's alive again! I couldnt be more relieved.
I was going to start lubricate all the necessary areas but wanted to confirm the type of lube.
What are you guys using?
I have Air Tool lubricant (the kind that you add a few drops into the tool)
Will that work?
Great diagnosis, with it in drill press mode, the rubber mallet and gravity were just what the doc ordered. Thank you!!wa2crk wrote:Phillsam]
I think this is what did it. I made a few cutting boards a couple months ago (i do not have a planer) so they were flattened with the disk sander and it was a dusty mess (no dust collector either).
JPG40504 wrote:I am fairly sure the start switch contacts are not closing. That could be caused by crud between the points or the centrifugal actuator sticking.
Beat the hell out of it with a rubber faced hammer in various locations and with the headstock in different positions. Hard enough to jar things, but not so hard as to bend metal!
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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I love the hammer method, worked on my X also!!!!!LOL
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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joshh
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- Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas
Bill Mayo got me hooked on the zoom spout oiler from Ace hardware. Ultra high quality turbine oil with a extendable spout. It's the only thing I will use.
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
phillsam wrote:I have Air Tool lubricant (the kind that you add a few drops into the tool)
Will that work?
Most of us here use either 3n1 or the zoom oil. Just make sure the spout is about 5" long, it makes it easier to reach the oil holes.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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rcplaneguy
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