SS or table saw

farley · Post by **farley** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 8:17 pm

I have no intentions or hope need to replace my 1958 table saw soon, but I was thinking, would it make sense to buy a used Mark V, upgrade it to a 520 and then make it a stationary table saw--Saw Dusty kinda did this and I don't think he knocks it down much.

I know there is always the option to use it as SS intended, so that's an advantage. Another advantageL is that it's a SS, so repairs/parts will be around for my lifetime.

I would be willing to bet the final cost would be close to the same as a well built good table saw.

any thoughts.

Thanks

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:15 am

farley wrote:I have no intentions or hope need to replace my 1958 table saw soon, but I was thinking, would it make sense to buy a used Mark V, upgrade it to a 520 and then make it a stationary table saw--Saw Dusty kinda did this and I don't think he knocks it down much.

I know there is always the option to use it as SS intended, so that's an advantage. Another advantageL is that it's a SS, so repairs/parts will be around for my lifetime.

I would be willing to bet the final cost would be close to the same as a well built good table saw.

any thoughts.

Thanks

Yes, I have more or less dedicated one of my Mark Vs to being a table saw. It also provides for a place to store and use the jointer. This setup has worked well for me.

The other Mark V serves as my drill press, sanding station and occasionally the band saw. I have a Power Station that is the normal home for the Band Saw.

However, if you have need for a table saw, I will not necessarily argue that the Shopsmith in the Table Saw Mode is ideal. It is part of a MultiTool and you can not loose track of that fact.

If I had the room and the money to facilitate it, I would have a Unisaw with all the table attachments and a Beissmeyer fence sitting along side my Shopsmith. All of my sheet work and most of my ripping tasks would be done there.

In the meantime, my Mark Vs are jointly doing everything that I routinely need.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:06 pm

I will go a step further and say almost any full size table saw, contractor, hybred, or cabinet would be better at strictly cutting wood than a dedicated SS.

Delta makes a very nice fully shrouded blade (dust collection) contractor saw
that I would love to have and it is priced well below $800. Most any of the hybred saws are priced new below $1000 and they have superior horsepower and dust control and not adjust 52+" cross cut capability. And here's where I usually differ with Dusty I can buy unisaw equivalent cabinet saws that I could not wear out in two lifetimes for less than $2000 (much less). If you are willing to buy used. In my area Industrial quality Unisaws can be had for under $1000 and no homeshop will ever destroy one unless they are cutting explosives.

Let me say if I ever convince myself to park my truck outside or buy a shed to store my lawn tractor I will have one of the above saws. The money is already set aside just sitting there waiting. Until then since I want both my vehicles stored inside I will keep my SS.

rcplaneguy · Post by **rcplaneguy** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:08 pm

If you have the space for separate machines, a dedicated table saw is the way to go. Tilting and raising/lowering the blade rather than the table....big plus. Accurate and stable scale on rip fence....another plus. Superior dust collection, usually. Etc etc.

mgbbob · Post by **mgbbob** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:34 pm

I have a Craftsman 113.xxx in the garage that I use with a Dubby sled. I have to move 2 motorcycles and an mgb to get set up but if I am doing a lot of work I use it. It has a big table and I have rebuilt every part on it. I don't have a great fence for it so that is on my list. That being said the Shopsmith in the attached workshop gets plenty of use. It does a great job of whatever I ask it to do.

My brain is constantly battling the space vs. more tools syndrom. I am a natural tool hog. It is in my blood. I can't help myself...............now I think I may have to turn myself in to the wife for therapy.

Bob

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 5:47 pm

One of my MKVs is a dedicated table saw. With either the Jointech set up or the Incra fence (Mine's got the Jointech) you'd gain accuracy well beyond the stock MKV fence. And with infeed and outfeed tables, it performs nearly as well as a good table saw. I've lusted for a good used cabinet saw, but never gave in. The old SS is serving me well. I just wish I could control the saw dust better.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:21 pm

I would like to have a Delta Unisaw in my shop. I have wanted a Delta Unisaw ever since the first time I used one. This is not to say that I cannot make saw dust just as well with my Shopsmith. I just have always wanted a Unisaw.

This does not equate to saying that the Unisaw (or any other professional table saw) is more accurate. I can cut a line, with my Mark V, as close to where I want to cut that line as I could with a Unisaw.

Seeing two lines that are 1/128" apart is my bigger problem. If the light is good, my glasses are clean and I got a good nights sleep, I can distinguish between two lines that are 1/64" apart.

Ed (in Tampa) may not but that doesn't matter. His table flexes more than that.

WmZiggy · Post by **WmZiggy** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 7:16 pm

I have a Ryobi contractor's table saw dedicated to ripping, and a Craftsman radial arm for cross cutting. I use my SSs for specialty cuts, such as dados, tenions , etc. It is easier changing blades on the SS and I don't like messing with the dedicated machines. The Ryobi has built in dust collection. If I had it to do over again, I would still buy a table and radial arm saws to work with my SS.

steve4447 · Post by **steve4447** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:11 pm

I have an old Jet that I picked up very used from another old guy and I like it a lot...The only thing that I would like better is a professional cabinet saw..

I can't see how you would ever wear one out...Nothing much to go wrong but the motor and the arbor bearings...And they both turned out to still be good...If you have the space I can't imagine not picking one up they often sell very cheap....I think I payed $150.00. for mine...I think the motor might be worth that... and we..(The seller and I)...were both pleased with the deal..I doubt that a new one from the big box store would be any better and maybe not even as good...

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:22 pm

dusty wrote:I would like to have a Delta Unisaw in my shop. I have wanted a Delta Unisaw ever since the first time I used one. This is not to say that I cannot make saw dust just as well with my Shopsmith. I just have always wanted a Unisaw.

This does not equate to saying that the Unisaw (or any other professional table saw) is more accurate. I can cut a line, with my Mark V, as close to where I want to cut that line as I could with a Unisaw.

Seeing two lines that are 1/128" apart is my bigger problem. If the light is good, my glasses are clean and I got a good nights sleep, I can distinguish between two lines that are 1/64" apart.

Ed (in Tampa) may not but that doesn't matter. His table flexes more than that.

To me it isn't a matter of accuracy. The SS to me is accurate as I need. The problem I have is I like to sneak up on the cut. With the SS if it involves depth it becomes more than a hassle. If it involves depth and out feed table it frustrates me.

I have cut with Production Unisaws, Professional Unisaws, and Home owner Unisaws, Delta contractor saws and Delta bench saws and to me the only difference is through put. With a production machine you can't push the board fast enough and feed speed goes down to bench saw which to me is slightly slower than I like. Cut accuracy on all are about equal.

What changes is convenience of height adjustment, ease of bevel cut, and solidness for long board crosscut. The other thing I like about a table saw is the for all intents and purposes the blade stays put. Making cutting tables, jigs and other things easy to use and not having to worry about the saw kerf in them getting wider.

To get improved accuracy you need to go to the European machines which allow you to dial in accuracy even tighter than 128th of inch with less than a .001 variance over a 12 foot cut should need it.