First chest 90% done - advice needed.

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paulsgreenbarn
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Post by paulsgreenbarn »

jerm wrote:Hello everyone! It's been a while since I've posted because I've been busy!

In the meantime, I managed to pick myself up a nice used Jet 6" jointer (finally!) It's the one with the 55" bed or so, pretty nice! That's after losing a sweet buy on a SS 510 with jointer and bandsaw for $550 :(

I just mention that because I wish I'd had a jointer before starting this chest! :D I'll blame my bad joinery on that instead of lack of patience, mixing up pieces, and generally dullish chisels! Anyway, I just have to cut out the drop-in bottom and do the lid and I'm done, but I figured I'd post what I have now.

ImageP4200272_1024px by J L Smith, on Flickr

So here's an overall shot of the chest. I got the design idea from fine woodworking or somewhere, but then just kinda veered off on my own eventually. So, it kinda-sorta looks like the project, but it's also my own - which explains why the joinery is mis-matched, etc. Amazingly, though, it's pretty darn close to being square.

Frame is red oak, the panels are pieces of wormy maple. For finishing, I had just applied linseed oil to everything, then I went back over the oak with "Provincial" stain from Minwax -- basically doing it like this caused the stain to just barely tint the wood and grain (hey I was experimenting!)

Before I bore you to death, here's the real issue:

ImageP4200275_1024px by J L Smith, on Flickr

What you're looking at is the front-left corner.
Now, ignoring the scribe lines I forgot to sand away, see the issue?

My left and right top boards are only resting on the rest of the chest - I mean, they're glued, but it's long-grain tenon resting on an end-grain groove - not the strongest joint.

The problem is, I need to attach handles, but I'm very hesitant to lift the chest using only those top rails.

So, how would you solve this? I've thought about maybe driving some very small screws through for support, but I want to avoid this if possible.

Another shot of the bottom joinery - not perfect, but secure
ImageP4200273_1024px by J L Smith, on Flickr

I got lucky and had two boards looking very similar to this (the figured portion), so I put one on each side. Luckily the rot / whatever wasn't all the way through.

ImageP4200276_1024px by J L Smith, on Flickr
I would make a square countersink in the front face ,centered in the side tenon .Predrill for a long screw that will go thru the tenon and into the side top rail.Then make a square cap for the countersink to hide the screw and look like a thru tenon.If that makes sense.
swampgator
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Post by swampgator »

beeg wrote:To remove pencil lines I've read to use denatured alcohol in a rag and just wipe em off..
That's a very interesting point I had forgotten, but I wonder how it will work with the stain and finish that is already applied. :confused:
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

swampgator wrote:That's a very interesting point I had forgotten, but I wonder how it will work with the stain and finish that is already applied. :confused:
Well that's why I always remove those lines before I do the finishing. :D
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:Well that's why I always remove those lines before I do the finishing. :D
ELASA.........:D:D:D:D:D:D
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

A pencil eraser works, but some smear it around, or what I like to use to remove pencil lines when I do use them is a sanding belt/disc dresser, it is nothing but a large eraser!!! When working with very light would I put blue painters tape down where I will be laying out lines. On dark wood I use a white pencil or the tape. The horses are out of the barn now, if you have finish on it will have to sand it off, then if the lines are even slightly dented into the wood keep sanding!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
jerm
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Post by jerm »

Thanks all for the comments.

The lines I mistakenly called pencil lines are actually gauge lines (cuts). I sanded the entire chest, but didn't realize they were there and of course they only showed up once I applied the light coat of stain.

I think for this project, I'm just going to leave them there. I'll apply artistic license and call them "rustic" :D

Although I have lifted the chest several times using the side rails only with no problems (haven't installed handles yet, though), I'll still take the advice into account on how to reinforce this joint.

Thanks everyone!
paulsgreenbarn
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Post by paulsgreenbarn »

jerm wrote:Thanks all for the comments.

The lines I mistakenly called pencil lines are actually gauge lines (cuts). I sanded the entire chest, but didn't realize they were there and of course they only showed up once I applied the light coat of stain.

I think for this project, I'm just going to leave them there. I'll apply artistic license and call them "rustic" :D

Although I have lifted the chest several times using the side rails only with no problems (haven't installed handles yet, though), I'll still take the advice into account on how to reinforce this joint.

Thanks everyone!
If you do the square plugs over countersunk screws,like I mentioned ,it will match the lower joints perfectly.good luck either way.That's a real nice piece..
jerm
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Post by jerm »

paulsgreenbarn wrote:If you do the square plugs over countersunk screws,like I mentioned ,it will match the lower joints perfectly.good luck either way.That's a real nice piece..
Yes I forgot to say I liked your approach the best - it preserves the square look of the joinery and should be pretty easy to pull off.

Once I find the time (an eternal struggle), I'll put the finishing touches on it and start on the top.
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

The lines I mistakenly called pencil lines are actually gauge lines (cuts). I sanded the entire chest, but didn't realize they were there and of course they only showed up once I applied the light coat of stain.
Jerm. I ALWAYS wipe down my pieces with Naphta or MS B4 I put on any type of finish or stain, it will show all, swirls, scratches, glue smear ect and gets all the dust off from sanding which may fill in some imperfections.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
paulsgreenbarn
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Post by paulsgreenbarn »

jerm wrote:Thanks all for the comments.

The lines I mistakenly called pencil lines are actually gauge lines (cuts). I sanded the entire chest, but didn't realize they were there and of course they only showed up once I applied the light coat of stain.

I think for this project, I'm just going to leave them there. I'll apply artistic license and call them "rustic" :D

Although I have lifted the chest several times using the side rails only with no problems (haven't installed handles yet, though), I'll still take the advice into account on how to reinforce this joint.

Thanks everyone!
I like to leave a mark or two on pieces.If someone down the line finds them,it gives the piece character and proof of being handmade by an actual person.My$.02 hah
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