Goldie and I need Help!

["Wild Bad Bob"]

No I have done nothing with the ears for 2 reasons, I dont think they are in play with the problem since the spherical washer is loose on that side between the bushing/sleeve and ear, 2nd cast aluminum does not take lightly to bending!!!
Not much to pry on to push the bushing/sleeve out, lets just call it the "sleeve" as does SS in there part diagram. Plus prying on it will not put pressure on all sides of it equally so I see that as a problem too.

[JPG]

I think the pinion gear/quill teeth are jammed.

The return spring will allow the housing movement you described, so no problem there.

Think about my 'wedge' suggestion, but place a wedge between the ears on both sides of the quill feed shaft. That will prevent them from deforming(except together), and allow prying pressure on the sleeve with minimized risk. If still nervous add a wedge between the ears and the headstock casing. If the pinion gear will not rotate, the sleeve will not either(remember the sleeve is keyed to the shaft and the shaft is permanently attached to the shaft as well) since it all rotates as a unit.

Have you applied a penetrant to the sleeve interior. K1 or Penetrol or something other than WD-40?



Any better ideas Bill??????

["Wild Bad Bob"]

Not to be argumentative and I appreciate all here.
If the pinion gear and quill teeth are jammed would the quill body still rotate that 1/4"? Since the are engaged with each other still. There is movement between them there so "if" we are on the same wave length here, on that, I dont think they are jammed.
I agree, the shaft, key and sleeve are all seized/frozen together, BUT since the spherical washer is loose between the ear and sleeve there is no force/tension there to keep the shaft from turning. I still see the problem with the sleeve frozen to the HS aluminum housing. BUT a closed mind is a blind mind!!!
I have been soaking with multiple sprayings of PB Blaster penetrating/derusting oil since about 5pm last night on the sleeve/shaft/key way area, as well on the spring side and where the quill teeth and pinion gear meet, but have not done anything this am yet since I am here with you.

["Wild Bad Bob"]

What is the solution/s for the idler sheave that is not moving?

[beeg]

What is the solution/s for the idler sheave that is not moving?

Did ya put some oil in it?

[wa2crk]

With all of the set screws removed and the quill lock and the depth stop handles removed are the conditions as I understand them. Correct? You can rotate the quill housing slightly tells me that the teeth are not jammed. Normal disassembly is to remove the quill assembly prior to removing the pinion shaft but AIUI you can not do that. Correct?
Aluminum does not rust but steel parts such as the large bushing on the side of the HS nearest the operator can rust and sieze to the aluminum. The fact that you can slightly rotate the quill housing would indicate that the pinion shaft should be able to be moved to the rear of the HS. If not then I agree with JPG that the problem is in the quill feed handle assembly where the quill feed is controlled by the handle.
I would remove the HS from the way tubes (if you can) and lay it on it's side and flood it with some Kroil oil or some other kind of penetrating and rust softening lubricant at the bushing bore and then try tapping (operative term "tap") the pinion out.
If you can't tap it through at this point try to rotate it slightly a little at a time.
This will take time so be PATIENT.
The combination of rust and aluminum spalting (corrosion) is a difficult condition to cure.
Bill V

[wa2crk]

Rbursek
The reason for the control sheave not moving is most likely lack of lubrication over time. Put some penetrating oil in the oil hole and set the assembly so that the oil can migrate down to the control sheave bearing. Lots of oil is OK

[JPG]

The pinion gear is a typical spur gear(i.e. round with tapered teeth etc.).

The quill gear rack is merely teeth milled into the quill housing, but straight across.

So the contact is essentially a line, but those quill teeth are tapered top to bottom which allows some clearance as the quill is rotated(the pinion gear teeth do not bottom out in the quill until rotated).

The pinion gear(the most likely culprit since it is softer) can still get mashed and create interference to the quill gear teeth.

If I am correct, you will be amazed at how small an interference can jam the quill.

In any event, getting the sleeve out will help our cause regardless of who is correct .

My 'money' is on the sleeve/key/shaft are seized(steel,steel,steel and the quill pinion gear mashed

Thought I posted this earlier b4 leaving the house. I was wrong, so here it is 'now'.

["Wild Bad Bob"]

1st thanks all,
Idler sheave/shaft bearing have been soaking with penetrating oil since last night in the vertical position.
Wa2Crk, you have it summed up correctly, pinion shaft sleeve/bushing had rust on it inside and outside along with the shaft, and key way. It will not turn at all, and when I hammered on it does not move laterally at all and the spherical washer is slightly loose, loose enough to wiggle it and rotate it. Soaking that area also.
Quill will not move in and out at all, but as I said earlier, it will turn about a 1/4", so, I trust JPG, but if the teeth were/are mashed and not letting the quill extend or retract why would I be able to rotate it that little bit? So now what, patients? Heat on the aluminum from the inside where the bushing is in the majority of the housing? I have never delt with steel corroded to aluminum B4. I am in no hurry with this but I find things that are not right/fixed disconcerting. I am anal retentive that way. And it is just Bob.

["Wild Bad Bob"]

Oh BTW, I have the motor out, when I spin it, it makes noise!!! Spins freely but not quite any thoughts?