Novice frustration, then Freaken Sweet!!!

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:48 pm

I am new to SS and just got my greenie going a week ago. I have an off site shop and moving things to my residence, the greenie has been here since I got it a few weeks ago. I needed to make a wood workers bench for here. Well today I needed to do some boring of 1" and 1 3/8" counter bore holes with Forstner bits. I set up the SS to do it horizontal, set the pieces on the table and use the fence behind them to act as a stop. The darn fence kept slipping away from the bit as I was exerting pressure on the piece by extending the quill.
So then thought, maybe thats the wrong set up. I then tilted the table so it would be vertical, acting as the stop, and rested the work pieces on the fence.
SS sure is nice for horizontal boring!!!! I had multiple pieces to do all at the same position on the pieces, one I got the height and quill stop set in was a breeze, and no changing belts on the pulleys to adjust for optimum speed like on my drill press, pitb to do.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:53 pm

When horizontal boring with a flat table, I find it a best practice to clamp a piece of wood to the table behind the fence to act as a back stop.

Your vertical table solution is also a good way! Ain't a Shopsmith a neat tool?

You might be a novice with a Shopsmith, but you're not at all a novice around a shop!

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon May 12, 2014 8:59 pm

You dont miss a clamp/s until they are not there!!! I was at the other shop Friday and wanted to grab some to bring home, I got distracted and forgot. I have been working on this WW bench all weekend and today with out any around, got by though.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 12, 2014 10:27 pm

I would check top see why the fence is slipping. But then if you are a gorilla, that could be the cause.

I drill against the fence all the time, but typically with smaller bits. Good workaround!

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon May 12, 2014 11:13 pm

JPG, elaborate, the word of the day, Gorillad I gorillad the fence knob, but easy on the feed and varied speeds to find what was working. Menards made in China bits, not the best but true to diam.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 13, 2014 12:04 am

rbursek wrote:JPG, elaborate, the word of the day, Gorillad I gorillad the fence knob, but easy on the feed and varied speeds to find what was working. Menards made in China bits, not the best but true to diam.

Which end of the fence was slipping(or both?) The sleeve on the knob end can wear and the nut on the back end can strip. All those flat washers need to be in the right place.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Tue May 13, 2014 12:50 am

Both, pretty much moved as a whole. What washers? Nut did not appear to be stripped by its tightening feel. But as you ask specif questions, I need to look at the specifics that I may not have!!!! Thats why I give you so much love JPG!!!!!!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:24 am

rbursek wrote:Both, pretty much moved as a whole. What washers? Nut did not appear to be stripped by its tightening feel. But as you ask specif questions, I need to look at the specifics that I may not have!!!! Thats why I give you so much love JPG!!!!!!

Remember the Mark II fence? Same parts mix. Different shapes, but same 'count'. As you tighten the knob, the front clamp should close first, then the rear clamp should close last.
On the M5, both clamps should engage a bevel on the underside of the table which pulls the fence downward towards the table.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:28 am

I know you used a backer board so as to not be drilling unwanted holes in the table top.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue May 13, 2014 9:33 am

dusty wrote:I know you used a backer board so as to not be drilling unwanted holes in the table top.

Counter boring does not include breaking through!;)