Fence alignment question

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Mike907 wrote:Nick shows how to do that on a 520 here.

Mike

Not really!;)

He did not make one table align with both ends.

I do believe the double tilt has eliminated the issue. I have believed tie rod misalignment has prevented this in the past. Both the main and extension tables must be adjusted to achieve this.

Many have just used two extension tables(one fer de left end and another fer de right end). I recommend having two anyway.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Navigating your way through the data that is available on the web site is not intuitive.

I think it used to be (can't confirm that) but I now have difficulty finding things that I know are there. Maybe it is the result of old age or lack of attention to detail (on my part) but I often get frustrated looking for information.

I so wish Shopsmith would post Maintenance Manuals, Alignment Procedures, etc on the web site. What would I have that section of the web site look like - check what's available for Incra products.
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zooman65
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Post by zooman65 »

I think I have a 510. It was built in 90. My dad bought a 520 and bought mine at an auction for extra parts. It wound up being nice enough that he kept it as a spare. It was originally owned by the St. Louis School District. He had tried to give it to me for a couple of years, but I did not want it. At that time I did not realize how many different tools it really was and I already had a small table saw. Once I took it home, I immediately fell in love with it. Well, after getting used to moving the table instead of the blade. Okay, not relevant but I find it interesting. Anyway, it seems to me that the splitter is adjusted using the saw guard. I have adjusted it all the way against the headstock, but the splitter is still just a hair to the right of the blade. The lower guard and splitter are not the original one. I bought them used off of e-bay so I have no idea if that would make a difference.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

zooman65 wrote:I think I have a 510. It was built in 90. My dad bought a 520 and bought mine at an auction for extra parts. It wound up being nice enough that he kept it as a spare. It was originally owned by the St. Louis School District. He had tried to give it to me for a couple of years, but I did not want it. At that time I did not realize how many different tools it really was and I already had a small table saw. Once I took it home, I immediately fell in love with it. Well, after getting used to moving the table instead of the blade. Okay, not relevant but I find it interesting. Anyway, it seems to me that the splitter is adjusted using the saw guard. I have adjusted it all the way against the headstock, but the splitter is still just a hair to the right of the blade. The lower guard and splitter are not the original one. I bought them used off of e-bay so I have no idea if that would make a difference.
I think we need pictures to help.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by charlese »

zooman65 wrote:Anyway, it seems to me that the splitter is adjusted using the saw guard. I have adjusted it all the way against the headstock, but the splitter is still just a hair to the right of the blade. The lower guard and splitter are not the original one. I bought them used off of e-bay so I have no idea if that would make a difference.
You're correct. The splitter is adjusted using the saw guard. If your guard is standard for a 510.

There is a screw on the saw guard, just below the spindle hole. This screw is used to adjust the the splitter. Try turning that screw into the saw guard. This will allow the guard to move toward the headstock, taking the splitter with it.
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rcplaneguy
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Post by rcplaneguy »

Look at the 3 minute mark on this video for adjusting the splitter to the blade via the lower guard.

http://youtu.be/_-Mt-P1efbU
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skou
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Post by skou »

[quote="keakap"]I have to disagree. If you have the fence perpendicular to the blade you will never have kickback.

Of course you'll never have a cut, either, but what price safety?

]

You know you're going to he-double hockey-sticks for that, don't you? (Great, now I gotta explain to "Da Kine" kamaaina what hockey is.):D

Sorry guys, you mainlanders wouldn't understand.

steve
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

rcplaneguy wrote:Look at the 3 minute mark on this video for adjusting the splitter to the blade via the lower guard.

http://youtu.be/_-Mt-P1efbU
I have watched this video three times this morning. I am trying to convince myself that after they completed the alignments on the extension table that the extension table and main table were in fact in the "same plane".

I don't think they were. They mounted that "straight edge" to show that they were but I believe there is a gap between the straight edge and the inboard edge of the extension table.

That would be consistent with my own experience with this procedure but then maybe I am negatively biased. I can get mine close but not right on.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:I have watched this video three times this morning. I am trying to convince myself that after they completed the alignments on the extension table that the extension table and main table were in fact in the "same plane".

I don't think they were. They mounted that "straight edge" to show that they were but I believe there is a gap between the straight edge and the inboard edge of the extension table.

That would be consistent with my own experience with this procedure but then maybe I am negatively biased. I can get mine close but not right on.
I also thought I saw a gap on the straight edge end away from the headstock at the front.

Much was made too easy looking.


BTW how did those two crash a Mal Hyams video?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

[ATTACH]25052[/ATTACH]

Maybe the edge facing us is tilted up.


If only it were that simple!

Tubes and end caps and spt bores must all be accurate for this to work.

IMHO, the tie bar must also be loose when adjusting the tie bar stop to allow it the way tubes to twist 'naturally'. All 4 tubes need to be parallel.
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ext aligned.jpg
ext aligned.jpg (19.39 KiB) Viewed 4041 times
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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