Loose Set Screw
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Loose Set Screw
I'm having problems keeping chucks (drill, turning) tight on the main spindle. I've tried really tightening them on , and replacing with new ones. I drill for a while, or turn for a while. and when I stop I notice the chuck(s) have too much play on the spindle. Any clues as to what could be wrong?
Thanks
Thanks
Jerome
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
- dusty
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Loose Saw Arbor (Spindle) Set Screws
gr8mesquite wrote:I'm having problems keeping chucks (drill, turning) tight on the main spindle. I've tried really tightening them on , and replacing with new ones. I drill for a while, or turn for a while. and when I stop I notice the chuck(s) have too much play on the spindle. Any clues as to what could be wrong?
Thanks
I do not reuse set screws for this very reason. I used to but no more. I had a run on loose set screws on the saw arbor.
The set screws that I now use have a spot of something like locktite on them. These are all that I use and if I ever "remove" a set screw, I replace it.
Which reminds me. I need to order set screws.
PS: Upon examination, prompted by this and other threads, I have checked a large sample of my set screws and I have used many that do not have the loctite patch.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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Jerome, are you using the flat faced Shopsmith setscrews, or the cupped ones from a big-box store?
I've NEVER had a Shopsmith one back out on me. But then, I'm using Truman age setscrews, and Shopsmiths.
The newer cupped face ones, are made to dig in, and be permanent. (Like, where your way tubes are locked down) the ones made for spindle attachments are not that agressive, and I think the softer (just barely) metal gives a bit and holds better.
The ones that hold the way tubes DO dig into the way tubes, but they're supposed to be not moved.
steve
I've NEVER had a Shopsmith one back out on me. But then, I'm using Truman age setscrews, and Shopsmiths.
The newer cupped face ones, are made to dig in, and be permanent. (Like, where your way tubes are locked down) the ones made for spindle attachments are not that agressive, and I think the softer (just barely) metal gives a bit and holds better.
The ones that hold the way tubes DO dig into the way tubes, but they're supposed to be not moved.
steve
- BuckeyeDennis
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Assuming that you have the right type of set screw, do you make sure that the screw is centered on the spindle flat when you tighten it?
I tighten my set screws very slowly, while wiggling the chuck (or whatever) back and forth in rotation. That way, it is easy to "feel" your way to the center of the flat. When, and only when, there is no more wiggle left, I give the set screw a good torquing.
I've had no problems with them coming loose.
I tighten my set screws very slowly, while wiggling the chuck (or whatever) back and forth in rotation. That way, it is easy to "feel" your way to the center of the flat. When, and only when, there is no more wiggle left, I give the set screw a good torquing.
I've had no problems with them coming loose.
Dennis, that one is easier to do with an ER, especially if the belt guard is where it belongs. (In some kind of box!)
It's also my method.
Guys, in High School, the drill-presses had a similar belt drive, and it had no guard. (At the time, we were driving cars with fins on them, and crappy carburetors.)
Some of those drill-presses had 5 step pulleys, though. (Wish I could find some for an ER.)
You don't need an exposed belt, but something that spins with the spindle, (like most wood lathes) would be handy, if for nothing more, than getting the setscrew in the bottom of the flat.
Like I've said 35 years of ERs, no setscrews backing out.
steve
It's also my method.
Guys, in High School, the drill-presses had a similar belt drive, and it had no guard. (At the time, we were driving cars with fins on them, and crappy carburetors.)
Some of those drill-presses had 5 step pulleys, though. (Wish I could find some for an ER.)
You don't need an exposed belt, but something that spins with the spindle, (like most wood lathes) would be handy, if for nothing more, than getting the setscrew in the bottom of the flat.
Like I've said 35 years of ERs, no setscrews backing out.
steve
- dusty
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Shopsmith Set Screws (Help Kit)
skou wrote:Dusty, with my antique stuff, I've never experienced a setscrew backing out. Maybe, it's just me. (Maybe, it's Hans's original design.)
Msybe, it's the fact that my 2 HP DC motor doesn't create that much vibration.
steve
I don't doubt that one bit and I seldom experience set screw back out but I have. In my case, I contribute it to having used the wrong set screw.
Drill Chuck 222460 (3/8" long)
Drive Center 222458 (1/4" long)
Tube Collar 222458 (1/4" long)
Spindle Hub 502051 (1/4" long)
Saw Arbor 222458 (1/4" long)
Sanding Disc 222460 (3/8" long flat point)
Base Arm 513056 (Cup Point Set Screw)
Tie Bar 115321 (Allen Set Screw)
If you need to replace a set screw, the information above is the information provided by the illustrated parts lists in the Shopsmith manuals. Cup Point, Flat Point, Serrated....that information is not provided so what do you use.
If the wrong one is installed...will it work? I hope so. If it doesn't, it could be hazardous.
Why do some arbor screws work loose? You tell me.
BTW...I believe that 222458 is a Setscrew, 5/16"-18x1/4" flat (not serrated, not cupped, not pointed).
What say you?
Maybe we would all be better off if we used ONLY the replacement parts in the Help Kit. MAYBE and MAYBE NOT.
[ATTACH]25124[/ATTACH]
The Shopsmith Help Kit.
- Attachments
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The Shopsmith Help Kit does not contain set screws for use in the following locations.doc
- (44 KiB) Downloaded 1377 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- "Wild Bad Bob"
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Well this thread saved me from starting one. I have a sanding disc from my ER that I have been using on the greenie, and 2 times now found the set screw loose after using. I guess I will get an important lesson here on types of set screws!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
- "Wild Bad Bob"
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- Location: Germantown, Wi
As Always, I askd first then do my own research!!!! From Wekapedia. I think that "blue dot" is a plastic type insert to act as a resistant to turning, by the female threads (hole) having to cut into it when turning. Now I know!!! Things your mother never taught you!!!
Point types[edit]
This advertisement (from 1913) illustrates various set screw point types.
Set screws appear with a variety of tip (point) types. The different shaped tips have different properties that engineers can utilize. If an engineer were to use a detent to ensure proper nesting of the screw, they might choose to use a cone point type of screw. One might often need to use a flat point when the screw must press perfectly flat against a surface. The most common type is the cup point. This type works well because the surface is rounded so that a small surface area is in contact, but it does not have extremely high stress at one point like that of a cone point. Durability studies show that the cup point offers superior resistance to wear while maintaining a strong grip.[1] Knurled cup points offer the added advantage of a locking action (similar to that of a serrated lock washer) that prevents the screws from working loose in high-vibration applications[2] (such as machinery that vibrates a lot while running).
Common points include the following:
Flat point
Domed point
Cone point
Cup point
Knurled cup point
Extended point (pilot point, dog point)
Point types[edit]
This advertisement (from 1913) illustrates various set screw point types.
Set screws appear with a variety of tip (point) types. The different shaped tips have different properties that engineers can utilize. If an engineer were to use a detent to ensure proper nesting of the screw, they might choose to use a cone point type of screw. One might often need to use a flat point when the screw must press perfectly flat against a surface. The most common type is the cup point. This type works well because the surface is rounded so that a small surface area is in contact, but it does not have extremely high stress at one point like that of a cone point. Durability studies show that the cup point offers superior resistance to wear while maintaining a strong grip.[1] Knurled cup points offer the added advantage of a locking action (similar to that of a serrated lock washer) that prevents the screws from working loose in high-vibration applications[2] (such as machinery that vibrates a lot while running).
Common points include the following:
Flat point
Domed point
Cone point
Cup point
Knurled cup point
Extended point (pilot point, dog point)
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
- dusty
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Set Screws in General
This might be a good starter for anyone who wants to know about types of set screws and why one and not the other.rbursek wrote:Well this thread saved me from starting one. I have a sanding disc from my ER that I have been using on the greenie, and 2 times now found the set screw loose after using. I guess I will get an important lesson here on types of set screws!!
If you need to study a large group of different combinations of available set screws, go here and research what Fastenal has to offer.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.