Hypotheitcal Real World wood movement question ...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:36 am

rbursek wrote:Hypothetical questions!!!! Sounds like my ex!!!!LOL
Okay, what type of wood, it makes a difference, is the end grain sealed, makes a big difference. My cherry end tables and coffee tables I made are at least that wide and no way is there 3/8" variation in seasonal changes. I dont even consider moister expansion when I build some thing and never had noticeable expansion, let alone a problem. I have done ship lap joints on some backs of pieces, but that was for ease and looks.
I am adding here, "edit" I think your #s are wrong, if I remember right they figure 1/8" average per foot of width as a general #, not a 1/4", and if it does it will happen first and most at the end grain area. That is one reason some, when gluing up panels use a "spring joint" to help alleviate that and help prevent any future possible "checking".
Now go to the shop and do something physical, and do away with the hypothetical stuff!!!!!!!!!!LOL!!!!!!!!!!

You be living a charmed life!:rolleyes:

Furniture falls apart in the winter due to central heating etc..

You heating with peat in a stick and stone and mud fireplace?:D

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 12:36 pm

rbursek wrote:Hypothetical questions!!!! Sounds like my ex!!!!LOL
Okay, what type of wood, it makes a difference, is the end grain sealed, makes a big difference. My cherry end tables and coffee tables I made are at least that wide and no way is there 3/8" variation in seasonal changes. I dont even consider moister expansion when I build some thing and never had noticeable expansion, let alone a problem. I have done ship lap joints on some backs of pieces, but that was for ease and looks.
I am adding here, "edit" I think your #s are wrong, if I remember right they figure 1/8" average per foot of width as a general #, not a 1/4", and if it does it will happen first and most at the end grain area. That is one reason some, when gluing up panels use a "spring joint" to help alleviate that and help prevent any future possible "checking".
Now go to the shop and do something physical, and do away with the hypothetical stuff!!!!!!!!!!LOL!!!!!!!!!!

LOL, that is why this is titled real world I have an opening (about 3'X3') between the kitchen and a livingroom/home theater that I covered with a plywood panel and trim about 7 years ago. I have never been happy with the look, but it was functional. I am wanting to "experiment" with a solid wood vertical grain panel, built by the SS, to replace the plywood. Haven't decided on species yet, may even make it out of fir for now to to get some experience (actually, with the right finish, I like the look of fir) Just doing the math and asking questions just to make sure my thinking was right, I have a lot of knowledge to gather to catch up with you grunts (old farts).....

Dick

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:53 pm

rjent wrote:I am wanting to "experiment" with a solid wood vertical grain panel, built by the SS, to replace the plywood.
Dick

Use a ship lap joint with a bead on the visible surface.

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 2:00 pm

beeg wrote:Use a ship lap joint with a bead on the visible surface.

The trouble is that both sides are visible. Do you not think this will work? I was planing to "anchor" in the middle so the movement would go both directions (and hence reduce it to half on each movement side) simplifying the trim surrounding the panel.

What say you?

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:02 pm

Then how about a tongue and grove joint?

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 4:54 pm

beeg wrote:Then how about a tongue and grove joint?

That was my original method http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=1. I am now making some beautiful TandG joints and some sliding dove tail as well (having a blast LOL). Then I started thinking (dangerous) about a simple butt glue joint.

You think a T and G joint is a better way of doing this?

I am all ears

Dick

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:24 am

(old farts).. Not me, just turned 62!!!
Ship lap looks the same on both sides.
I love Doug fir, I can make it look like antique aged mahogany. Made my router table fence from it and dyed and stained it to look like it.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:56 am

JPG, you have sentral heeting? I thought all you hill billys had dirt floors and a fire place with a kettle hanging in it!!!! Eutice is what I was thinking!!!
BTW I do live one!!! But that is because I lead the ship, not the crew.

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:18 pm

rbursek wrote:(old farts).. Not me, just turned 62!!!
Ship lap looks the same on both sides.
I love Doug fir, I can make it look like antique aged mahogany. Made my router table fence from it and dyed and stained it to look like it.

Very nice! Nice finish! I am glad I am not the only one on Douglas Fir. It is cheap, available and easy to work. I don't like the splintery property, but all in all, a beautiful wood. My father in Law used a lot of it as well as oak in his cabinets.

I have decided I am going to do a tongue and groove on 3/4 inch stock. I have got the technique down pretty well and very repeatable in under table mode.

I am 63

Thanks rbursek for the response ....

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:58 am

JPG, I hope you had a good one with your children if you do have any. I have electric base board heat, but the house is very well 'sealed' and I cook alot, but even with the range hood fan on, my humidity is on the higher side in the winter, heck you should have seen it when I had my 300 gal salt water aquarium. In the summer, AC, on usually if over high 70s and high humidity, but that melting ice and the fan blowing over it keeps the humidity on the higher side in the house.