I have just picked up a Greenie for an amazing $30 at auction. Generally great exterior shape - needs some light cleaning. Been getting some missing parts to complete all that initially came with it.
When I swung the way tubes all the way to vertical, the Base Lock did not align with the indent in the head. It was off center by a trace over 1/4" and will not tighten into the indent. I did indeed fully extend to 90 degrees. I do not see that there is any way to change the alignment.
Were there perhaps some bases which had mis-drilled indents? SN379372.
Any suggestions or info are welcome
Thanks -- newest member!
Help Base Lock does not align with indent
Moderator: admin
Help Base Lock does not align with indent
Estes Park, CO
Goldie SN 379372, Born 1962, Acquired June 7, 2014, Starting restoration
Goldie SN 379372, Born 1962, Acquired June 7, 2014, Starting restoration
Indent is designed that way. Everything is fine. Here's a thread discussing the issue. http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread. ... ght=offsetnuke wrote:I have just picked up a Greenie for an amazing $30 at auction. Generally great exterior shape - needs some light cleaning. Been getting some missing parts to complete all that initially came with it.
When I swung the way tubes all the way to vertical, the Base Lock did not align with the indent in the head. It was off center by a trace over 1/4" and will not tighten into the indent. I did indeed fully extend to 90 degrees. I do not see that there is any way to change the alignment.
Were there perhaps some bases which had mis-drilled indents? SN379372.
Any suggestions or info are welcome
Thanks -- newest member!
nuke wrote:THANKS for quick followup! I know I will have another dozen similar basic questions in the next month or two.
We've all been there. Welcome to the forum. Suggest you read a few of the stickies under the "Maintenance and Repair" forum and do a lube and alignment before going any further. Above all, don't turn speed dial without the motor running and quill turning.
Welcome!
I recently joined this forum after picking up a pair of shopsmiths off craigslist. I've found the people both incredibly helpful and knowledgable. Thanks to the guidance here (and search function) I've been able to strip my two machines down all the way except for leaving the motors themselves unopened (since they work fine) and left the bearings on the shafts (because I haven't purchased the cheap harbor freight bearing puller yet, and the bearings are OK).
Don't hesitate to take it apart. They are wonderfully well made and designed to be maintained and fixed by the owner. Just read and ask questions first because there are a few things you don't want to mess up.
Off the top of my head:
definately follow the suggested way of pulling the motor shaft spring using a board with a hole. I learned the hard way by bouncing the spring off my ear. That hurt.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned: if you decide to knock out any of the roll pins, to take handles off the threaded rods, for example, support the piece by placing it on a scrap of wood with a hole drilled in it for the pin to exit into. I assume this is so obvious it wasn't mentioned anywhere I happened to glance at but wasn't obvious enough to me and I lightly bent one of the threaded rods.
Again, welcome
Sounds like you don't need it, but
I recently joined this forum after picking up a pair of shopsmiths off craigslist. I've found the people both incredibly helpful and knowledgable. Thanks to the guidance here (and search function) I've been able to strip my two machines down all the way except for leaving the motors themselves unopened (since they work fine) and left the bearings on the shafts (because I haven't purchased the cheap harbor freight bearing puller yet, and the bearings are OK).
Don't hesitate to take it apart. They are wonderfully well made and designed to be maintained and fixed by the owner. Just read and ask questions first because there are a few things you don't want to mess up.
Off the top of my head:
definately follow the suggested way of pulling the motor shaft spring using a board with a hole. I learned the hard way by bouncing the spring off my ear. That hurt.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned: if you decide to knock out any of the roll pins, to take handles off the threaded rods, for example, support the piece by placing it on a scrap of wood with a hole drilled in it for the pin to exit into. I assume this is so obvious it wasn't mentioned anywhere I happened to glance at but wasn't obvious enough to me and I lightly bent one of the threaded rods.
Again, welcome
Sounds like you don't need it, but
Greenie (no serial #), 82 Mark V 500 serial #128648, ci bandsaw, old jigsaw, planer. All one buy in March 2014. Magna Jointer added Nov. '14. Speed reducer, conical disk and two bearing quill upgrade.