520 Rip Fence

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

Moderator: admin

ldh
Gold Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 6:09 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

520 Rip Fence

Post by ldh »

The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH
Attachments
DamagedFence.jpg
DamagedFence.jpg (79.27 KiB) Viewed 9244 times
RFBack.JPG
RFBack.JPG (74.18 KiB) Viewed 9245 times
RFFront.JPG
RFFront.JPG (76.45 KiB) Viewed 9238 times
paulmcohen
Platinum Member
Posts: 1577
Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:10 pm
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Contact:

Post by paulmcohen »

ldh wrote:The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH

I am thinking the same design would work with 3/4 Birch plywood as a sacrificial fence, if I used 3/4" bolts.

Where did you purchase the UHMW?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
User avatar
Bruce
Platinum Member
Posts: 884
Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2006 10:31 pm
Location: Central MO

Post by Bruce »

Here's another option from Rockler.

Image
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21481
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

520 Rip Fence, Damaged

Post by dusty »

Nasty gash. How deep is the gash? Is it simply the offset of the carbide tips that cut into the fence? It looks deeper is why I ask.

I think your fix will work fine. The only thing that I would miss is the t-track on the face of the fence. I use that a lot for finger boards.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
fjimp
Platinum Member
Posts: 2345
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:45 pm
Location: Lakewood, Colorado

Post by fjimp »

Bruce,

I agree I just received a set of the Rockler Universal Fence Clamps. They work beautifully. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
paul heller
Gold Member
Posts: 288
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:41 pm
Location: Arvada, CO

Post by paul heller »

I've had my 520 upgrade for some time now, yet it was only last night that I needed my sacrificial fence. I reached for it, put it on the table, and then realized it won't work with the 520 fence!

My sacrificial fence is mounted with two bolts and brass thumbscrews. There are two holes in the 510 fence. I honestly cannot remember if I drilled those holes or if there were originally in the 510 fence, but my gut tells me the holes were there from the factory.

The Rockler option won't work for me because my sacrificial fence is also high, giving stability for certain operations where I need a high fence. For example, last night I needed to put a 70 degree bevel on the edge of a board. The table won't tip 70 degrees, so I wanted to tip it 20 degrees and hold the board against the fence. For safety, and to get close enough to the blade, I need a tall sacrificial fence.

So, what are you guys using? Before I go drilling holes in my 520 fence, I'd like to know what you all do.

Paul
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35433
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

ldh wrote:The previous owner of my 520 allowed the blade to run a bit too close to the rip fence creating a problem that is more than just cosmetic. I thought about just repairing the rip fence with SS parts, but found it a bit expensive. The pics will give you an idea of my solution and now I think I like it better than an undamaged fence. The previous owner probably did me a favor.
1/4" UHMW, 1/4 X 20 X1/2 counter sunk bolts and SS sliders.
LDH
Now THAT is slick!:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Post by reible »

Bruce wrote:Here's another option from Rockler.

Image

I too have this set BUT beware the t-slot on the back side of the fence is right where the foot of the screw sets. Not a super big deal but not as perfect as I'd like. Of course several work a rounds exist.

[ATTACH]4596[/ATTACH]

If you are looking for UHMW plastic the best prices I found when getting some to make zci last year was here:
http://ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm

I have found I like the fence material at least 3/8 thick but that is just my personal opinion. That is also what I use for the zci's for my 520 but they have to be milled to fit.

Ed
Attachments
DSCF6037sc.jpg
DSCF6037sc.jpg (53.53 KiB) Viewed 9318 times
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
ldh
Gold Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 6:09 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post by ldh »

paul heller wrote: So, what are you guys using? Before I go drilling holes in my 520 fence, I'd like to know what you all do.

Paul
I use the SS SLIDING T-NUTS to attach all the fence jigs and fixtures that I use on my 520s. The 520 fence has to be one of the best improvements that SS has made as far as I go. SS had them on sale recently so I bought an extra dozen.

ldh
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4182
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

paul heller wrote: The Rockler option won't work for me because my sacrificial fence is also high, giving stability for certain operations where I need a high fence. For example, last night I needed to put a 70 degree bevel on the edge of a board. The table won't tip 70 degrees, so I wanted to tip it 20 degrees and hold the board against the fence. For safety, and to get close enough to the blade, I need a tall sacrificial fence.

Paul

You can still use those clamps, just make a fence as in the picture and screw your tall fence to that...
I would probably make a few "T" slot shaped strips of some extra hard wood that would slide into the slot and make them thick enough to stand a little proud of the fence face so the clamp pad would not mar the fence.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Post Reply