Loose Set Screw

[dusty]

Absolutely. I'm gonna try a flat,oval cupped,knurled brass set screw lathered with Loctite and nail polish, and wrapped in Teflon tape. I'm gonna jiggle it with an L shaped T wrench and tighten it in til the wrench twists in my hands.

Seriously, have you resolved your issue with loose arbor set screws.

If not, is it possible that the set screw is not the issue at all. There is some play between the Drive Sleeve Assembly (56) and the Spindle Assembly (62) that can be attributed to the Drive and Ring Assembly (57). This play closely resembles the play that you feel when the arbor is not tight to the drive shaft (loose arbor set screw).

Just hoping you have this solved and you are back to making sawdust safely.

[skou]

Guys, a couple things about my usage here.

#1, I'm using Model 10 stuff, which doesn't have the straight-knurled area at the base of the spindle, (or, the back end of the quill, if that works better) the one with the set screw aligned with the flat. When I've got something on the spindle, I can't see the spindle flat, so slightly rotating the drive pulley, while tightening down is my only resort, to make sure I'm in the sweet spot. Yes, I've got my upper pulley cover stored in a secure spot, and am aware of the open belt. I can't imagine using a table saw or lathe, without being able to take hold of that pulley, if I need to.

#2, I have finally found a complete set (all 3 sizes) of the long L shaped Allen wrenches for tightening setscrews. The ones that came with the later Model 10 series stuff. (And yes. I need all 3.) Really 4, if you count my rear carriage lock I got from Skip, that uses a larger setscrew, and a larger Allen wrench. The long Allen wrenches allow me to use the shorter leg, on most instances, except tightening down the sanding disc.

Also, since I've got a wooden bench, that is NOT a museum piece, I've got 5 holes drilled in the headstock end, that hold the 3 long L shaped Allen wrenches, the 4th one for the carriage lock, and the drill chuck. I've also got the 3 standard (Craftsman brand) Allen wrenches stuck to the headstock with rare-earth magnets. Since I'm one of the (un?)lucky ones with the cast iron headstock (along with other parts) I can stick magnets all over. The holes in the bench are large enough for any one wrench to fit in any hole, and the top of the hole is opened up with a countersink, so the wrench sits flush on the bench. (Really, I just used a 1/2 inch drill to make the countersink.)

steve

[dusty]

I found these in my box of set screws. They are all 5/16"-18x1/4" flat.

Two are new and two are used. The used ones will not return to the box.

[ATTACH]25444[/ATTACH]

The brass tipped one is a mystery to me. I know not from whence it came and I probably will not use it.

[Mike907]

The set screws in my 5/8" saw arbors came with brass tips, but I don't know why a brass tip would be needed. See post #19.

Mike

[dusty]

Someone who has very recently purchased a Shopsmith Saw Arbor could lend a lot of light to this discussion if they would check their set screws and inform the forum. Is it brass tipped?

Someone with a parts list for a new Mark 7 could do the same thing. Is the part number for the arbor set screw 222458?

Admin could save us all a lot of trouble. How about publishing a new Mark 7 parts explosion in PDF format.

[oldc6]

Dusty: will attach a couple of pictures.
Purchased two 510 blade arbors about a year ago.
no brass. All the attachments I have none have a brass
set screw.

The two on the right are blade arbor screws.
one on the left is for the drill chuck. [ATTACH]25447[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]25448[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

Only the drill chuck set screw appears 'correct'. Not sure about the other two. Not clear re the points. They should also be 'flat'.

[skou]

I agree with JPG. I'd be leery of cranking down a setscrew into my spindle, with an aggressive pattern on it.

We're trying to do 2 things here.

#1, hold something to the spindle, so it won't move.

#2, not damage the spindle. (It is expensive, and labor intensive, to replace. Or, if you're in my boat, no longer in print.{production.} Which is why I've got spares.)

I've had good luck, provided the setscrew is aligned with the flat, using flat-faced setscrews. I've never bought new setscrews, I use what I've gotten with the machines I have.

HOWEVER, since I'm using an antique Model 10, with it's limited power, I don't have the "issues" you high-powered Shopsmith users do. And, my loose-running belt tends to dampen out the high power spikes. (If I catch a skew chisel, the belt will just slip, instead of throwing the work piece into my head.)
Yes, the belt looseness is intentional. And, adjustable.

Another plus for the Series 10 stuff? You've got to decide.

That being said, I was able to turn a Magna 8 inch wobble dado blade, through 4X4s, cutting 1X1 inches, and had no issues, even though the blade REALLY needed to be sharpened. (Then, I was using the Skip-built DC motor conversion.)

steve

[dusty]

I can't see the two on the right well enough to judge. They appear to be the right length. The point is in question. They should be flats. If they are cupped or serrated, I would not use them in the arbors.

[dusty]

I found these in my box of set screws. They are all 5/16"-18x1/4" flat.

Two are new and two are used. The used ones will not return to the box.

[ATTACH]25444[/ATTACH]

The brass tipped one is a mystery to me. I know not from whence it came and I probably will not use it.

PS I suspect that the one second from the left had been in a drill chuck. The set screws in my drill chucks both look like this. The drill chucks (at least mine) are not drilled at an angle to match the taper on the shaft. Thus, the set screw does not meet the shaft on the flat.