Miters with Biscuits

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bffulgham
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Post by bffulgham »

davebodner wrote:I need to make a bunch of window screens, about 3 feet wide by 5 feet tall. I was going to use 1x2 stock and miter the corners. I've done an acceptable job before, but I thought the biscuit joiner (now on sale) might make things easier and a bit stronger. In this second round of screen-making I was going to add a stretcher halfway up, which would also be biscuited.

Am I asking for trouble introducing biscuits into miters?
A #10 biscuit is a hair over 2" in length.
A #0 biscuit is 1 3/4" in length.

You're going to have a problem with 1x2 stock......
The miter cut for 1x2 stock (assuming actual size of a 1x2 being 3/4 x 1 1/2) is slightly less than 1 3/4" (1.732")
The slot for a #0 is going to be longer than the frame material width.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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rcplaneguy
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Post by rcplaneguy »

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Your post got me wondering about the limits of using biscuits for structural joinery. I recalled having read about using double-biscuit joints for structural joints, but didn't know how they compared, strength-wise
I have never seen a biscuit joint fail (knocks on wood). Here I'm adding length to an over trimmed door.
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John
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

rcplaneguy wrote:I have never seen a biscuit joint fail (knocks on wood). Here I'm adding length to an over trimmed door.
That reminded me where I had read about using biscuits for structural joints. It was in an article about some guys building doors professionally, using tripled biscuits instead of mortise & tenon joints. Details and photos can be found here.
e.friedl
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Post by e.friedl »

bffulgham wrote:A #10 biscuit is a hair over 2" in length.
A #0 biscuit is 1 3/4" in length.

You're going to have a problem with 1x2 stock......
The miter cut for 1x2 stock (assuming actual size of a 1x2 being 3/4 x 1 1/2) is slightly less than 1 3/4" (1.732")
The slot for a #0 is going to be longer than the frame material width.
I have the PC biscuit joiner and use the FF biscuits with small cutter. They work very well with 1 X 2s, You do have to be careful in centering the cutter, but properly installed they do not show, the slot is smaller than the 1 X 2s. The FF is not well know but PC made them just for use with 1 X 2s.
Ed
bffulgham
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Post by bffulgham »

e.friedl wrote:I have the PC biscuit joiner and use the FF biscuits with small cutter. They work very well with 1 X 2s, You do have to be careful in centering the cutter, but properly installed they do not show, the slot is smaller than the 1 X 2s. The FF is not well know but PC made them just for use with 1 X 2s.
Ed
Yep, I have the same, but the OP was considering the Shopsmith attachment, and I don't think the SS version does the FF size biscuit. And, the FF biscuit is really small. A half-lap or saddle joint would be a more sturdy joint.

Now, having said all that, the screen material pulls everything together and makes the assembly stronger anyway........
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
Mike907
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Post by Mike907 »

This won't give you an excuse to buy the biscuit joiner, but it should work for your miter joints.
[ATTACH]25491[/ATTACH]

Mike
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Dowelled Miter.jpg
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rlkeeney
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Splined Miter Joint

Post by rlkeeney »

I have found splined miters to be very strong.

[ATTACH]25556[/ATTACH]
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Splined Miter Joint.jpg
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Robert Keeney
Tallahassee Florida USA
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