Which method for setting planer blades? Plus sharpening questions

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:59 pm

I'm going to want to use my planer for the first time pretty soon. It is safe to assume it needs sharpening and setting. I have neither the little gauge tool nor a dial indicator.

A cheap dial indicator and stand is a bit more but would get much broader use.

Does the jig or the dial indicator work significantly easier/better?

Also, sharpening the blades: I don't have a conical disk. The budget is so tight just now that I hope you'll tell me I can hand joint and sharpen them with a true flat surface and increasingly fine grades of wet-dry paper in the scary-sharp approach, or something else that costs less than a conical disk and paper, at least to get them usable.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Fitzhugh

BuckeyeDennis · Post by **BuckeyeDennis** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:56 pm

The SS knife-setting gauge came with my used planer, but I spent maybe $30 at Harbor Freight for a dial indicator and magnetic base. Then I followed the Nick Engler method for setting the knives, and it worked like a charm. I had played with the SS gauge for a bit, but did not get the impression that it would make it easy to get the knives dead on.

I also have the conical disc and the SS sharpening guide. They make sharpening quick and easy, but any method that yields sharp flat knives should be fine. I've seen plans for homemade sharpening guides, which makes great sense if your time budget is fatter than your cash budget. In drill press mode, I would think that a grindstone (even Dremel-sized) could be used instead of the conical sanding disc, as long as it is dressed flat. The knife edges should come out exactly as straight as your fence.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:34 pm

BuckeyeDennis wrote:The SS knife-setting gauge came with my used planer, but I spent maybe $30 at Harbor Freight for a dial indicator and magnetic base. Then I followed the Nick Engler method for setting the knives, and it worked like a charm. I had played with the SS gauge for a bit, but did not get the impression that it would make it easy to get the knives dead on.

I also have the conical disc and the SS sharpening guide. They make sharpening quick and easy, but any method that yields sharp flat knives should be fine. I've seen plans for homemade sharpening guides, which makes great sense if your time budget is fatter than your cash budget. In drill press mode, I would think that a grindstone (even Dremel-sized) could be used instead of the conical sanding disc, as long as it is dressed flat. The knife edges should come out exactly as straight as your fence.

The flat sanding disk will also work, but, care must be taken to ensure the blades do not over heat. Use the off set rip fence method. A simple board with a slot cut for blade mounting can work.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 1:33 pm

Great replies. Just the stuff I needed.

What is the offset rip fence method? Do you mean using the fence to align the block that holds the knife?

I do have more time than money so I'm looking to get it going spending as little as I can. I will get the conical disk someday for many reasons but not sure I can just now. Making my own jigs and tools is always preferred. It's fun and cheaper.

The disk indicator has the advantage of being useful for setting up other parts and projects. I also need a replacement caliper after mine walked off.

Mike907 · Post by **Mike907** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 2:37 pm

"What is the offset rip fence method? Do you mean using the fence to align the block that holds the knife?"

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/discsand/index.htm

Scroll down to Edge Sanding.

Can't be done on a 520.

Mike

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:50 pm

Mike907 wrote:"What is the offset rip fence method? Do you mean using the fence to align the block that holds the knife?"

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/discsand/index.htm

Scroll down to Edge Sanding.

Can't be done on a 520.

Mike

Figure 17-5.

A simple blade holder is a flat board with a groove cut at the bevel angle of the planer blade that rides against the fence as it is fed from the back side of the disk.

Very light feeding with the quill between passes. The grinding will take place at the outer edge of the disk, so it will heat up rapidly if too agressive.

I recommend a fairly wide board to provide hand clearance to the spinning disk.

Also the disk makes a decent flat surface when held in hand(arm/belly).

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 3:52 pm

Can one not 'shim' the right side of the 520 fence to skew it?

Mike907 · Post by **Mike907** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:16 pm

I'm sure that you could shim the right side of the 520 fence. I should have said that the 520 fence doesn't have the built-in capability to be offset and Shopsmith has removed that section from the manual.

Mike

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:28 pm

Mike907 wrote:I'm sure that you could shim the right side of the 520 fence. I should have said that the 520 fence doesn't have the built-in capability to be offset and Shopsmith has removed that section from the manual.

Mike

That is because they want to sell a conical disk.

And the screws were being improperly used to square the fence to the blade/miter slot.

Why on earth did they add the one on the left anyway?

roy_okc · Post by **roy_okc** » Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:15 pm

While I haven't tried it, I've seen and heard of several people liking this sharpening jig: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208310 ... g-Jig.aspx

Probably wouldn't work so well to fix nicked blades though.

Roy