All the sheaves on my recently purchased 510 were stuck and would not move; I disasembled the entire headstock and cleaned and polished the shafts; and cleaned the sheaves so everything moves again.
The issue is I didn't think to measure how far the fan sheave is from the top plate that is screwed to the motor; I positioned it all the way down to where it wasn't rubbing on the plate and tightened the allen screw; when I put everything back together it appears it would place the belt at quite a angle when riding in the sheaves. wouldn't that place a lot of strain on the belt & cause excessive wear on the sheaves?
What on earth is the exact distance the fan sheave should be from the top plate on the motor?
I can't seem to get straight answers, and the manual doesn't have any clear details for many things.
Thanks.
motor fan sheave
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JPG
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[quote="brianj"]All the sheaves on my recently purchased 510 were stuck and would not move]
There is a small sleeve that controls that spacing. It is on the motor shaft between the inner race of the bearing and the fan sheave.
As for pulley alignment, you must take into account the sheaves that move. As the control sheave moves towards the idler sheave(fixed location) the floating sheave reacts and also moves in the same direction but away from the fan sheave(also fixed). Thus the center line of the belt path shifts the same direction on both pulleys. As the idler pulley closes, the motor pulley opens. This is what occurs when adjusting the speed towards slow. The opposite occurs throughout when adjusting towards fast.
What is important is that that varying belt center line is a straight line between the two pulleys at all speed settings. Virtually impossible to determine visually unless the belt is running and the movable sheaves are responding.
FWIW, the two fixed sheaves need to be about 1 1/2" apart since the belt shifts about 1 inch and the belt is about 1/2" wide.
There is a small sleeve that controls that spacing. It is on the motor shaft between the inner race of the bearing and the fan sheave.
As for pulley alignment, you must take into account the sheaves that move. As the control sheave moves towards the idler sheave(fixed location) the floating sheave reacts and also moves in the same direction but away from the fan sheave(also fixed). Thus the center line of the belt path shifts the same direction on both pulleys. As the idler pulley closes, the motor pulley opens. This is what occurs when adjusting the speed towards slow. The opposite occurs throughout when adjusting towards fast.
What is important is that that varying belt center line is a straight line between the two pulleys at all speed settings. Virtually impossible to determine visually unless the belt is running and the movable sheaves are responding.
FWIW, the two fixed sheaves need to be about 1 1/2" apart since the belt shifts about 1 inch and the belt is about 1/2" wide.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Fan sheave
Apparently this machine either never had a spacer to control spacing of the fan sheave, or somebody messed with it before and never replaced it to its original location, because I can assure you there was never one there.
Can I just place the sheave the proper distance from the top plate on the motor?; (my earlier question) or do I need to order a spacer and just wait
Can I just place the sheave the proper distance from the top plate on the motor?; (my earlier question) or do I need to order a spacer and just wait
Yes you can but it is not recommended. The spacing IIRC is about 1/8 of an inch. The reason for the spacer is to prevent the fan sheave from hitting the motor end plate as well as positioning the sheave properly so that alignment is achieved.
Check the installation of the eccentric bushing as well as the position of the grooved pulley on the main drive sleeve. If they are all properly installed alignment should not be a problem.
Bill V
Check the installation of the eccentric bushing as well as the position of the grooved pulley on the main drive sleeve. If they are all properly installed alignment should not be a problem.
Bill V
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JPG
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I second the need for the spacer(at least as a permanent long term plan).
At one time the spacer was the victim of bean counters as they tried a thinner material that caused the sleeve to gradually embed itself into the softer aluminum sheave thus decreasing the spacing until it rubbed the motor end cap.
If that occurred, one can postulate what the absence of the spacer will result in.
That set screw is one of very few where gorilla hands are required(per SS info) while tightening. Do be sure the key is under the screw!
IIWM, I would do as you suggested and also order and wait, then install the sleeve when it arrives.
At one time the spacer was the victim of bean counters as they tried a thinner material that caused the sleeve to gradually embed itself into the softer aluminum sheave thus decreasing the spacing until it rubbed the motor end cap.
If that occurred, one can postulate what the absence of the spacer will result in.
That set screw is one of very few where gorilla hands are required(per SS info) while tightening. Do be sure the key is under the screw!
IIWM, I would do as you suggested and also order and wait, then install the sleeve when it arrives.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Fan Sheave
Well I guess I will take the advice {sigh} hopefully it isn't one of those items that gets placed in who knows when back order like the lower bandsaw wheel I ordered 
. The idler shaft bearing I have even with the eccentric bushing and the casing; seem odd that the retaining screw and washer boss is out further than the casting preventing it from even contacting the bushing in this position; also seems strange there is nothing preventing the shaft from pulling from the bushing in the event the control sheave seizes, causing further damage. (how I discovered mine were stuck) I was a bit afraid tightening the pinch bolt out of fear of breaking the ears; however it seems I have it as tight as I dare; even still if one were to accidently bump that idler shaft drive hub; that shaft will in fact shove into the case possibly causing damage to the quadrant. I see other versions had a set screw in the bushing in hopes of stopping that possibility? Mine is 55510 1989
. The idler shaft bearing I have even with the eccentric bushing and the casing; seem odd that the retaining screw and washer boss is out further than the casting preventing it from even contacting the bushing in this position; also seems strange there is nothing preventing the shaft from pulling from the bushing in the event the control sheave seizes, causing further damage. (how I discovered mine were stuck) I was a bit afraid tightening the pinch bolt out of fear of breaking the ears; however it seems I have it as tight as I dare; even still if one were to accidently bump that idler shaft drive hub; that shaft will in fact shove into the case possibly causing damage to the quadrant. I see other versions had a set screw in the bushing in hopes of stopping that possibility? Mine is 55510 1989-
JPG
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[quote="brianj"]Well I guess I will take the advice {sigh} hopefully it isn't one of those items that gets placed in who knows when back order like the lower bandsaw wheel I ordered . The idler shaft bearing I have even with the eccentric bushing and the casing]
A question is, what version of the eccentric do you have, and what version of the headstock casting as well as which idler shaft?
Is your eccentric open at the bottom or does it have a set screw?
Does the idler shaft have the water pump bearing, or does it have two ball bearings?
How many screws in the casting are preventing outward sliding of the eccentric and bearing?
You may have a combination.
You are absolutely correct re concern for breaking those ears. Once snug, stop! All that bore is doing is preventing rotation of the eccentric. Lotsa contact area around the eccentric.
. The idler shaft bearing I have even with the eccentric bushing and the casing]A question is, what version of the eccentric do you have, and what version of the headstock casting as well as which idler shaft?
Is your eccentric open at the bottom or does it have a set screw?
Does the idler shaft have the water pump bearing, or does it have two ball bearings?
How many screws in the casting are preventing outward sliding of the eccentric and bearing?
You may have a combination.
You are absolutely correct re concern for breaking those ears. Once snug, stop! All that bore is doing is preventing rotation of the eccentric. Lotsa contact area around the eccentric.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Fan Sheave
Mine has a water pump shaft with a keyway slot machined on the long end, and a flat on the short end for the drive hub.The eccentric bushing is open at the bottom; It has a small screw in the bushing end facing the rear of the headstock, and a screw with a washer that screws into the casting. The switch is a toggle type and the quill is a two bearing. The inspection cover is a pull out with a hand eating hole for any attempt to reach inside.
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JPG
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The open bottom of the eccentric means the eccentric is squeezed as the 'ears' are tightened. The two screws each have a single purpose(keeping stuff from creeping out), but one restrains the eccentric, and the second restrains the bearing. Realize the control sheave pressing against the motor belt and onto the idler sheave also exerts force pushing the idler shaft/bearing/eccentric. The screws limit the motion. The ears prevent rotation of both the bearing and the eccentric in this version.
Snug (enough to fully compress the split lockwasher) should be sufficient.
Snug (enough to fully compress the split lockwasher) should be sufficient.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Fan Sheave
Right; I understand that;however if the control sheave siezes as in the case of mine there is nothing preventing the idler shaft from pulling out of the eccentric bushing into the case while running. This is what happened literally to me. I know shame on me for not knowing, or checking; however I have never owned one before, and the seller claimed it was in exellent condition; plugged it in for me turned it on; I heard it run and looked no further.
I got my toy home plugged it in ran it up to high speed "POP" "POP" oh no! what was that? The idler shaft completely pulled from the bushing into the case while running; jammed the quadrant gear stripping it and I was done; now after some major time and work and $$$$$ I believe I am just about to succeed in an operational machine (hopefully)
I got my toy home plugged it in ran it up to high speed "POP" "POP" oh no! what was that? The idler shaft completely pulled from the bushing into the case while running; jammed the quadrant gear stripping it and I was done; now after some major time and work and $$$$$ I believe I am just about to succeed in an operational machine (hopefully)