Jointer vs. Conical disk?

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:46 pm

I know the conical disk is used for sharpening planer and jointer blades but it seems it's main use is as a jointer type device. How does it compare to the actual jointer? Which is better for what?

I'm looking ahead a ways since I've got other things to buy first, but I'll want a decent non-hand powered jointer of some sorts when I can get one. Which would you buy first and why?

Thanks for the input,
Fitzhugh

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:46 pm

When you use a Conical Disk with a table-fence, it's actually more like a thicknessing-planer (on its side) than a jointer.... Getting a jointed edge relies on you having a fairly true edge on the opposite side of your workpiece, to bear against the fence. Similar to running a piece along a fence through a bandsaw blade.

You mentioned hand-tools: I think using the power jointer is easiest to comprehend if you have done some manual jointing in the past. Then you have a better appreciation of how to attack cupped or bowed pieces.

Since I bought all my SS equipment new, I bought a Conical Disk prior to buying a jointer, to save money for a while. However the jointer is more efficient for jointing, based on longer reference tables, wider 'cutting surface', and ejecting chips rather than dust.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:03 pm

It's best to forget about jointing with the conical disk. It is meant for sanding - which includes sharpening.

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:04 pm

Oh, of course! Not sure were I thought the reference edge to follow the fence was coming from. I guess one could sled it like I've seen done with planers to joint a surface. By seen done I mean I watched someone on YouTube do it. So different than in person experience.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:19 pm

I may get jumped on for this but I use the conical for "minor" edge jointing by setting the rip fence up to guide the reference edge.

The work piece is trapped between the fence and the sanding disk but if you maintain control of the work piece and do very light sanding, I see no hazard and IT WORKS.

OKAY. I'm ready. Bring it on.

Besides --- how does this differ from "edge sanding" like preparing an edge for glue up.?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:40 pm

'Key' to answering this question is an understanding of the the different reference surfaces used in the two operations.

A jointer uses both the horizontal table surfaces(infeed/outfeed) to ensure a straight edge end to end. A jointer also uses a fence to ensure an angle between a 'face' and the edge being worked. The jointer requires the split table since the outfeed table must accommodate the part of the workpiece no longer present after being cut.

The conical disk edge sanding is not quite the same, although used correctly getting close to the same result is possible. The workpiece 'face' is referenced to the table. The depth of sanding is referenced to the opposite edge(by the fence) of the workpiece. The table tilt/disk taper will determine the face/edge angle.

Thus the conical sander can do something the jointer cannot(create an edge parallel to the opposite edge).

A thickness planer can do what the jointer or sander cannot, and that is making opposite faces parallel planes.

Warps are best eliminated/minimized to irrelevance by hand planing IMHO.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:45 pm

dusty wrote:I may get jumped on for this but I use the conical for "minor" edge jointing by setting the rip fence up to guide the reference edge.

The work piece is trapped between the fence and the sanding disk but if you maintain control of the work piece and do very light sanding, I see no hazard and IT WORKS.

OKAY. I'm ready. Bring it on.

Besides --- how does this differ from "edge sanding" like preparing an edge for glue up.?

It will work, Dusty, but in order to have it make a right angle edge to the faces, you must have your table at a perfect right angle to the sand paper. This can be quite troublesome.

Gotta ask - who sands an edge prior to gluing?

The jointer makes a perfect right angle edge for gluing.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:48 pm

charlese wrote:It will work, Dusty, but in order to have it make a right angle edge to the faces, you must have your table at a perfect right angle to the sand paper. This can be quite troublesome.

Gotta ask - who sands an edge prior to gluing? The jointer makes a perfect right angle edge for gluing.

Those who do not have or do not want to drag out the jointer.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:41 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]Those who do not have or do not want to drag out the jointer.]

So - Please tell me - how does one make sure the sanding is at right angles to the face(s). OR MAYBE THAT DOESN'T MATTER? one can always reduce the thickness of the faces to achieve a flat surface.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:11 pm

charlese wrote:So - Please tell me - how does one make sure the sanding is at right angles to the face(s). OR MAYBE THAT DOESN'T MATTER? one can always reduce the thickness of the faces to achieve a flat surface.

Same way it is done with a jointer - with a square.

Difference is, with the conical disk, the square is used to set the table tilt to 90 from the disk(in a vertical plane which passes through the rotation axis).