Should I Feel Bad ?
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- Ed in Tampa
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- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
No
Table in or table out without seeing the manual could be talking of two things
Most probably which way you have the head turned to rip cut. If you turn it 90 degrees to the right it probably moves out on the table. If you turn it 90 degrees from zero to the left it the blade is now closer to the fence.
On mine I have a two part table fence. If I put the spacer behind the fence and fence against the table my table is about 18 wide. However if I put the spacer between the fence and the table it move the fence back another 3 to 4 inches to give me 22 inch table.
Table in or table out without seeing the manual could be talking of two things
Most probably which way you have the head turned to rip cut. If you turn it 90 degrees to the right it probably moves out on the table. If you turn it 90 degrees from zero to the left it the blade is now closer to the fence.
On mine I have a two part table fence. If I put the spacer behind the fence and fence against the table my table is about 18 wide. However if I put the spacer between the fence and the table it move the fence back another 3 to 4 inches to give me 22 inch table.
Ed in Tampa
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- BuckeyeDennis
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Then I'm confused as well.Ed in Tampa wrote:No
Table in or table out without seeing the manual could be talking of two things
Most probably which way you have the head turned to rip cut. If you turn it 90 degrees to the right it probably moves out on the table. If you turn it 90 degrees from zero to the left it the blade is now closer to the fence.
On mine I have a two part table fence. If I put the spacer behind the fence and fence against the table my table is about 18 wide. However if I put the spacer between the fence and the table it move the fence back another 3 to 4 inches to give me 22 inch table.
If you read the manual that Bffulgham linked to back in post #26, the description of cross-cutting on page #7 sure sounds like the table slides. On page 6, there is a photo showing two "table lock handles" .. one on each side at the front of the base, although these look as though they might simply actuate clamps for the backboards and fence.
But then in the maintence section on page 12, there is a mention of the "table guide rails" not requiring oiling.
???
What page 7 reads is this:
Cross Cut - Table Out
Move the Saw blade back on the arm as far as it will
go. Position the table so that the blade is behind the
work. Set the arm at "O" on the miter scale and set
the motor-cradle at "O" on the bevel scale. Be sure
the arm lock handle is in lock position, the twist lock
handle is in lock position, and the carriage lock is in
release position. Place the material, to be cut, on
the table against the fence and pull the saw blade
across the material. Return the saw blade behind
Table in tells you to make a table out cut then lock the carriage, unlock the table and push the table in to finish a 20" cut ?Cross Cut - Table In
To cut off material up to 20" wide, the cut can be
started as described in CROSS CUT - TABLE OUT.
When the blade has been pulled all the way out, the
carriage should be locked, the table should be un
locked, and the material pushed into the blade. This
action will continue the cut to the full capacity of the saw
- Ed in Tampa
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
As I said on my craftsman there is a movable fence and my saw came with I think two spacers. The table is bolted solid and you place the spacers in front of or in back of the fence.
As I remember with the spacer in front of the fence you could not push the blade far enough back. So you had to crank up the blade, start the saw and lower the blade then pull it blade the rest of the way through the cut.
I didn't like that or need the extra width so when I replaced the table I only made one spacer that would allow me to push thin stock back against the fence and not touch the blade. With the space behind the fence the I push the blade back far enough to have full clearance even on max thickness wood.
It appears from the instructions Shopsmith did this a another way with a table that slide back and forth a few inches.
As I remember with the spacer in front of the fence you could not push the blade far enough back. So you had to crank up the blade, start the saw and lower the blade then pull it blade the rest of the way through the cut.
I didn't like that or need the extra width so when I replaced the table I only made one spacer that would allow me to push thin stock back against the fence and not touch the blade. With the space behind the fence the I push the blade back far enough to have full clearance even on max thickness wood.
It appears from the instructions Shopsmith did this a another way with a table that slide back and forth a few inches.
Ed in Tampa
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- JPG
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Yes the table slides in/out.
See page 2 and 3 in the page 7 link above.
See page 2 and 3 in the page 7 link above.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- BuckeyeDennis
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Where does it say to let go?]only[/U] the table moves.beatnik wrote:Does the Saw Smith have a built in hold down system ? I wouldn't be comfortable just letting go of the material like it says.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange