Pseudo Jointmatic?

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:44 pm

As projects wrap up I was wondering

1. What all can a Jointmatic do?

2. Is it as simple as making a jig?

A box with a clear Plexiglas bottom and an attached router, clamped to aux fence.
The bit height is adjusted via the table height (micro adjust with the collar to a thousandth).

I've seen pictures of one. It doesn't seem to be much more. Am I missing something?
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Please inform me of the allure and or indispensability of the Jointmatic plus is this jig basically the same thing (or are there bells and whistles I am missing)?

Thanks for any insights.

Be well,
Ben

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:51 pm

I would suggest adding a sacrificial table top to prevent damage in case the router bit were to touch the table surface. I have not had a Jointmatic in my hands but your concept looks like it could be promising.
But then again, why use the router? A Power Pro may eliminate the necessity of a router.
Why a plexiglas mounting plate? Plywood would be stiffer and I don't think the router has to be seen.
Bill V

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:06 pm

wa2crk wrote:I would suggest adding a sacrificial table top to prevent damage in case the router bit were to touch the table surface. I have not had a Jointmatic in my hands but your concept looks like it could be promising.
But then again, why use the router? A Power Pro may eliminate the necessity of a router.
Why a plexiglas mounting plate? Plywood would be stiffer and I don't think the router has to be seen.
Bill V

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the advise.

The sacrificial piece was a serious consideration, though I didn't show it.
A router was a choice since I liked the idea of the large table with micro-adjustability that I didn't figure I would get using the double tilt and making the clamped box seemed quicker on and off, though I might lose some stability.

The Plexiglas is two reasons. First, is a simple 3/8" thick router plate with a small hole like 3/4" to accommodate for the DeWalt, I think, should be sufficient (the Triton seems like overkill and would need something more stable like plywood or aluminum and second, I like the idea of see through to help alignment top or bottom. I even considered a mirrored surface at a 45 degree angle from the back side so I could see the cut as it was made.

A friend has a Festool Domino and is a huge fan of the joint. I don't make enough furniture to consider let alone justify one of those, but the idea of a precise mortise seems appealing.

Thanks for the observations, advise and thoughts.

Be well,
Ben

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:07 am

Do you propose to adjust the height of the main table to achieve adjustability or are you going to move the extension table?

I doubt the reliability of the Main Table Tilt Lock.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... jointmatic

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:42 am

dusty wrote: I doubt the reliability of the Main Table Tilt Lock.

I doubt the reliability of the Main Table Tilt Lock??????

Have you had problems with it?

That is one lock on my SS that has never concerned me perhaps ignorance is bliss please explain any problem you may have had.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:29 am

I would be concerned re the play in the main table support posts etc.

But then if the table is NOT adjusted while 'cutting' no concern.

I question the 'micro adjustability'.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:31 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:I doubt the reliability of the Main Table Tilt Lock??????

Have you had problems with it?

That is one lock on my SS that has never concerned me perhaps ignorance is bliss please explain any problem you may have had.

Dusty has mentioned that before.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:38 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:I doubt the reliability of the Main Table Tilt Lock??????

Have you had problems with it?

That is one lock on my SS that has never concerned me perhaps ignorance is bliss please explain any problem you may have had.

Yes, I have. The temptation is to crank down on the lock but I advise against that. Get rid of the dust that accumulates in that area and make certain that the locking surfaces are clean (like mineral spirits clean).

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:44 am

JPG40504 wrote:I would be concerned re the play in the main table support posts etc.

But then if the table is NOT adjusted while 'cutting' no concern.

I question the 'micro adjustability'.

I find that I have not locked either the carriage or the depth of cut locks when I have this problem.

As a general comment, the locks all need maintenance, mostly cleaning. The carriage lock on 505/520s occasionally needs adjustment.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:59 am

dusty wrote:I find that I have not locked either the carriage or the depth of cut locks when I have this problem.

As a general comment, the locks all need maintenance, mostly cleaning. The carriage lock on 505/520s occasionally needs adjustment.

The way and table support tubes need clearance(slop) to allow easy movement.

AIUI the joint matic has the ability to raise/lower while cutting. Gorilla hands while doing so is I believe a reason for lead screw attachment failure as much as the material.

Without that ability, I question the reason for it.