You will need
two pieces of 2x2 that you will cut a bevel on (or whatever I would recommend at least 1" thick because you want a nice edge riding against the fence) ,
feeler gauges (mine went as fine as .0015)
and testing MDF, plywood, hardboard, etc probably no smaller than 16 by 16. Two might be a good precaution.
Because of backward thinking I used many slaps of MDF and LOTS of mis-cuts until I came up with this pseudo jig. After the jig I was satisfied with the results (see below) by the third adjustment.
First, Ng has a pivot point on his fence not available on the INCRA so one needs to be temporarily created. Two 15" 2x2s were given bevels so they could press against the fence. I chose to bevel them because I figured a square end might impede the ability of the fence to pivot well.
[ATTACH]25811[/ATTACH]
The one with the 0 on it is nearly center-line with the miter bar.
The other one is nearly at the end of the solid portion of the fence approximately 12" from center.
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This is just a shot from the back so you might better see the orientation.
Use Ng's 5 cut method and check your results. If you feel like you want a better result........
When doing the calculation - Note: his pivot point was on the right and yours is on the left at the miter bar.
Push the zero 2x2 point firmly against the fence on the centerline of the miter bar and clamp.
If you need to ADD (move the fence rearward)
Place the second 2x2 firmly against the fence
loosen the 3 or 4 set screws for which ever gauge you have
use a feeler gauge to set the needed additional depth
gently press the entire fence back and tighten the set screws.
If you need to REMOVE (move the fence forward)
Place the feeler gauge with the correct correction against the fence,
press the second 2x2 against it
clamp the 2x2 in place
loosen the set crews
remove the feeler gauge,
gently press the fence against both 2x2s and tighten the setscrews.
Personally I found it easier to clamp the sled to the table to keep things from sliding when I made the adjustments.
Repeat the 5 cut to check your work.
And repeat adjustments as you wish
Using this I was able to get the 1000SE to half a thousandth at one foot.
Close enough for any work I plan. 
I would guess that the same method could be used with the V120 on the table rather than in a sled to get a precise angle.
Hope this helps someone.
Be well,
Ben