New one for the stable

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"Wild Bad Bob"
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New one for the stable

Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

Pick this up today, clean as a new born, even has a SS Logo blanket, AND the coveted Speed Changer. I will need your help here on attaching it soon.
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4578379950.html
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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skou
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Post by skou »

Here's the easy way, but you're going to need a few things.

1, the proper belts.

2, a longer set screw for the motormount shaft, where the shaft goes into the bottom of the headstock. Setscrew needs to be about an inch long. You also need a nut and washer to fit that screw.

Here's how it's done. Slide the headstock to the left, about a foot from the left end. Loosen the bolt holding the tiebar to the headrest, raise the tiebar about 3 inches, and put a block of wood under the motor. Remove the tiebar. Remove the left setscrew from the lower left side of the headstock, the one that holds the motormount shaft, replace it with the longer one, and tighten it down. Put the washer on it. Slide the speedchanger on, with the crank facing you, and the flat side against the headstock. LOOSELY put the nut on. Re-attach the tiebar, remove the block, and lower the left end to horizontal position.

If you want to leave the speedchanger assembly installed, but not used, rermove the nut holding the pulley assembly on, pull the pulley off, and save both parts You can now just run a single belt. I would suggest that for running a table saw setup, you just use the single belt mode.

I'd also STRONGLY suggest you sign up here, if you haven't already.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Sho ... users/info

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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skou
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Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:53 am
Location: Mesa (near Phoenix) Az

Post by skou »

Oh, I just looked.

Metal legs and casters, about $75.

Speedchanger, anywhere from $75 to $150.

Getting these for $175, plus a pretty complete Model 10,
PRICELESS!

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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joedw00
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Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by joedw00 »

I would say you did real good.
Joe

520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500

Being a VETERAN is an honor
Being a GRANDPA is priceless
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rpd
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Location: Victoria, B.C.

Post by rpd »

skou wrote:Here's the easy way, but you're going to need a few things.

1, the proper belts.

2, a longer set screw for the motormount shaft, where the shaft goes into the bottom of the headstock. Setscrew needs to be about an inch long. You also need a nut and washer to fit that screw.

Here's how it's done. Slide the headstock to the left, about a foot from the left end. Loosen the bolt holding the tiebar to the headrest, raise the tiebar about 3 inches, and put a block of wood under the motor. Remove the tiebar. Remove the left setscrew from the lower left side of the headstock, the one that holds the motormount shaft, replace it with the longer one, and tighten it down. Put the washer on it. Slide the speedchanger on, with the crank facing you, and the flat side against the headstock. LOOSELY put the nut on. Re-attach the tiebar, remove the block, and lower the left end to horizontal position.

If you want to leave the speedchanger assembly installed, but not used, rermove the nut holding the pulley assembly on, pull the pulley off, and save both parts You can now just run a single belt. I would suggest that for running a table saw setup, you just use the single belt mode.

I'd also STRONGLY suggest you sign up here, if you haven't already.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Shopsmith10ERusers/info

steve
Just installed my 10ER speed changer today.:) It was pretty straight forward and went smoothly.

Just few things I would add to Steve's directions above:

- The pulleys on the motor will need to be reversed
- The belts need to be on the speed changer before it goes onto the way tubes. There isn't enough clearance to get them on once it is installed.

-
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

Thanks all, it came with 3 belts, about 3/4' wide,by about 6-7" from loop end to the other. Plus just the main drive ones. TOO MUCH Denatured Mythonal to understand the way to set it up tonight!!! Tuff day buying on CL, got 2 Jet Dust Collectors and the new ER. Saturday 5 O Clock starts at 4pm
Packer Nooners Starts with Bloodies at 11am!!!!!LOL
You got to love the ERs, except to lift and move them!!!
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4578379950.html
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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skou
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Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:53 am
Location: Mesa (near Phoenix) Az

Post by skou »

Ron, if you leave off the center pulley, you can later install it with the belts on it.

One more interesting tidbit, I reversed the top pulley, and it worked, as well as the other way. But you're right, both pulleys need to be facing the same way.

Bob, you also need to adjust the belt tension, too.

Both of you, do your speedchanger's dials go 1-5 or 1-8? The 1-8 has a greater range, but the center sheave's bearing surface is too small, and is prone to wear. the 1-5 one, a later model, has a larger bushing on the center sheave, but you lose some range. Directions say not to adjust the center pulley, but you can and should, depending on the width of the belts.

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
User avatar
rpd
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Posts: 3045
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:22 am
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Post by rpd »

skou wrote:Ron, if you leave off the center pulley, you can later install it with the belts on it.

I had not thought of that, good to know.

One more interesting tidbit, I reversed the top pulley, and it worked, as well as the other way. But you're right, both pulleys need to be facing the same way.

If you are using the upper belt cover the large pulley needs to be on the right, (against the headstock).


Bob, you also need to adjust the belt tension, too.

Both of you, do your speedchanger's dials go 1-5 or 1-8? The 1-8 has a greater range, but the center sheave's bearing surface is too small, and is prone to wear. the 1-5 one, a later model, has a larger bushing on the center sheave, but you lose some range. Directions say not to adjust the center pulley, but you can and should, depending on the width of the belts.

My dial goes from 0-5.

steve

I am getting mine ready to try some lathe work. Last time I turned anything was in highschool, (class of 1970) so I am pretty much starting from scratch.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
Location: Germantown, Wi

Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

Ron, me too!!! Class of 71. Turned a few bowls, cant remember the turning rules but going to get into it this winter again. Will need to study up and/or take a class at WoodCraft. No pens though!!!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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rpd
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 3:22 am
Location: Victoria, B.C.

Post by rpd »

rbursek wrote:Ron, me too!!! Class of 71. Turned a few bowls, cant remember the turning rules but going to get into it this winter again. Will need to study up and/or take a class at WoodCraft. No pens though!!!!!!
Oh, pens are what I want to try first. I have been acquiring equipment and supplies over the last few years, I even had to get a second set of ShopSmith lathe chisels off ebay, the first set is put away somewhere safe, but I have no idea where.:o

This past week I worked out how to sharpen the chisels and practiced a bit on some scrap 2x2.

Monday is a holiday here so I will try my first pen then.

In high school I did a nice black walnut platter and some crow calls, but I can't remember any of the techniques.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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