After tube clean up
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- "Wild Bad Bob"
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
- Location: Germantown, Wi
After tube clean up
I will be pulling way and the lower tubes on a # of SS in a month or two, after clean up of rust, what can I put on them other then paste wax? Metal spray lacquer, varnish, shellac, ect and still have the HS slide easily?
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3814
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
I've found that treating bare metal with Penetrol does wonders for preventing rust. It gets down into the microscopic pits and pores and seems to seal them permanently. For areas such as the inside of the tubes, no further treatment is necessary. The Penetrol will stay tacky for a while, but eventually will dry into a fairly hard film.
For sliding surfaces, I usually let the Penetrol sit overnight, and then clean it off of the surface with WD40. Not too thoroughly, though. You want the Penetrol to stay down in the pits and pores. Then coat with JPW.
I've been using this process for about a year, usually right after cleaning up old tools with Evaporust. So far, so good .. not a speck of rust has formed on parts treated this way, with or without the JPW. On similar parts treated with WD40 only, rust soon starts forming in the pits, and then spreads.
For sliding surfaces, I usually let the Penetrol sit overnight, and then clean it off of the surface with WD40. Not too thoroughly, though. You want the Penetrol to stay down in the pits and pores. Then coat with JPW.
I've been using this process for about a year, usually right after cleaning up old tools with Evaporust. So far, so good .. not a speck of rust has formed on parts treated this way, with or without the JPW. On similar parts treated with WD40 only, rust soon starts forming in the pits, and then spreads.
- "Wild Bad Bob"
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
- Location: Germantown, Wi
BD, this is from a boat forum, from some one that used Penetrol on there boad wood. I have found "Flood Penetrol" paint additive, is that the same as what you used???
Discovered an interesting aspect of Penetrol™. It is a lot more like Thompson's Waterseal™ than I thought! After about two weeks, the boat looked DIRTIER THAN I had EVER seen it. When I wiped it off with my hand, it appeared the dirt was stuck to the surface coating I had completed two weeks earlier. The Penetrol must have still been soft for a while. I guess not all good ideas are brilliant ones.
I used soft scrub cleanser and my Sponge-Scotch Brite™ combo pad to see if I could remove the dirt. It came off easier than I expected, but the water did not bead up as it had previously done. Round two goes to the boat.
I guess I now have to see if it is a dirt-magnet again. If so, I will scrub it good with regular cleanser and the Scotch Brite, and then give it a coat of Nu-Finish™. This is probably what I should have done in the first place.
Discovered an interesting aspect of Penetrol™. It is a lot more like Thompson's Waterseal™ than I thought! After about two weeks, the boat looked DIRTIER THAN I had EVER seen it. When I wiped it off with my hand, it appeared the dirt was stuck to the surface coating I had completed two weeks earlier. The Penetrol must have still been soft for a while. I guess not all good ideas are brilliant ones.
I used soft scrub cleanser and my Sponge-Scotch Brite™ combo pad to see if I could remove the dirt. It came off easier than I expected, but the water did not bead up as it had previously done. Round two goes to the boat.
I guess I now have to see if it is a dirt-magnet again. If so, I will scrub it good with regular cleanser and the Scotch Brite, and then give it a coat of Nu-Finish™. This is probably what I should have done in the first place.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3814
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:03 pm
- Location: Central Ohio
Yep, same stuff as the paint additive. Here's the official rust-control pitch from Flood.rbursek wrote:BD, this is from a boat forum, from some one that used Penetrol on there boad wood. I have found "Flood Penetrol" paint additive, is that the same as what you used???
Discovered an interesting aspect of Penetrol™. It is a lot more like Thompson's Waterseal™ than I thought! After about two weeks, the boat looked DIRTIER THAN I had EVER seen it. When I wiped it off with my hand, it appeared the dirt was stuck to the surface coating I had completed two weeks earlier. The Penetrol must have still been soft for a while. I guess not all good ideas are brilliant ones.
I used soft scrub cleanser and my Sponge-Scotch Brite™ combo pad to see if I could remove the dirt. It came off easier than I expected, but the water did not bead up as it had previously done. Round two goes to the boat.
I guess I now have to see if it is a dirt-magnet again. If so, I will scrub it good with regular cleanser and the Scotch Brite, and then give it a coat of Nu-Finish™. This is probably what I should have done in the first place.
- "Wild Bad Bob"
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
- Location: Germantown, Wi
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have a great LD weekend!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.