64 year old ER10 has a break down!!

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:54 am

Yesterday I unplugged my ER, and the plug sparked/arced, not the original plug, and the cord came out of it, like it was cut off. Since the plug was a redo I took it apart and the wires were burnt off. What surprised me, and the reason for this post, is the wire in the cord and it is the original cord. The wires are aluminum and only 16 gauge. Granted the 1/2 HP motor is rated at 8 amps, I will be changing all the cords on my ERs with 14 ga copper wired ones. If using aluminum wire for anything, it should be one gauge heavier for the same amp rating then copper, and still not recommended.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:05 pm

rbursek wrote:Yesterday I unplugged my ER, and the plug sparked/arced, not the original plug, and the cord came out of it, like it was cut off. Since the plug was a redo I took it apart and the wires were burnt off. What surprised me, and the reason for this post, is the wire in the cord and it is the original cord. The wires are aluminum and only 16 gauge. Granted the 1/2 HP motor is rated at 8 amps, I will be changing all the cords on my ERs with 14 ga copper wired ones. If using aluminum wire for anything, it should be one gauge heavier for the same amp rating then copper, and still not recommended.

"Original" from whom/where??;)

I do not recall aluminum wiring from the 50's, nor appliance cords with aluminum conductors.

skou · Post by **skou** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:42 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]"Original" from whom/where??]

Bob, is that wire fine multistrand, or single strand? I don't think I've EVER seen multistrand aluminum wire. I have seen single strand Aluminum wire, but only for non-moving stuff, like inside a wall or conduit.

steve

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:07 pm

They did use AL in house wire for a while in the 50's but I personally have never seen it used in a flexible cable such as a drop cord.

I've only worked on 3 10ers, none of which had anything but strained copper wire. On two of the machines the wire was fine (used fine in the since it was OK) but the plugs were less then wonderful. My current machine, (not ready for prime time yet) was sold as having power problems. It turned out the switch connection was about 3 strands from none. It would start and run but how much power can a few strands carry?? Fix that and it was back in business.

They do make a "tin" plated wire which might look like AL but it is not. If it was soldered it is not AL but the tin plated wire.

Ed

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:51 pm

It is stranded wire, it may be the tin coated, I will see if I can dig the cord out of the dumpster tomorrow and double check it.
As far as the plug goes it was one of those yellow 1"+ diameter replacements.

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:58 pm

Cant get anything past you guys here. It is tin coated copper.

skou · Post by **skou** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:23 am

Tried to "sneak one past the goalie" did you?
We're too sharp for that!:D (You're as sharp as a marble, Steve!)

A bunch of wires, or just the 2? I'm betting a bunch of them, because big, fat wires don't bend that easily. (And, a big fat ME doesn't bend that easy, either!)

Tin coated copper is easier to solder. Might want to keep that wire, just don't re-use it on a Model 10. (You can try it on a Mark Series, who cares about them?) (Yes, I'm hiding in my bunker, after that last comment!)

steve

"Wild Bad Bob" · Post by **"Wild Bad Bob"** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:18 am

skou wrote: Tin coated copper is easier to solder. Might want to keep that wire, just don't re-use it on a Model 10. (You can try it on a Mark Series, who cares about them?) (Yes, I'm hiding in my bunker, after that last comment!)

steve

Internal insulation is shot/brittle, just disintegrates when you remove the outer layer. I am sure that is why it shorted out. It deserves a new cord.