10ER Saw Blade

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rjent
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10ER Saw Blade

Post by rjent »

I want a very thin kerf multipurpose for my rebuilt 10ER (to be revealed probably tomorrow :)). What would you experts suggest? I have limited options here in town, but I am going to a larger city tomorrow or the next day, so I can look at Lowes or Home Depot.

BTW, my wife saw, out in the shop, the 10ER finished today, and said "MickeyD, eat your heart out":eek: Gotta love a supportive woman :D

Anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated!

Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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dusty
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Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

It is my opinion that the better saw blades come from somewhere other than Lowes or Home Depot. I would suggest Shopsmith, Woodcraft or online. Will a 10 accept 10" blades?

Looking forward to the reveal. Now that it is all pretty are you going to use it or memorialize it? Oops...that is not intended to be sarcastic.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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rjent
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Post by rjent »

Thanks Dusty for the response.

Oh, rest assured, I bought it to use. I have already used it enough to recognize the abilities of this 63 year old machine. After all we were both born in the year of '51 and I know what I am capable of ...... :D

Are Freud saw blades any good. I have read a lot about them, but so far just sales pitch.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance ....

Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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e.friedl
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Location: Champaign IL

10 inch blades

Post by e.friedl »

The maximum blade diameter for the 10ER is 8-1/4 inches. There might be room enough for a 10" but it wouldn't be able to cut anywhere close to the full depth of a 8" one.
Ed
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rjent
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Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

Post by rjent »

e.friedl wrote:The maximum blade diameter for the 10ER is 8-1/4 inches. There might be room enough for a 10" but it wouldn't be able to cut anywhere close to the full depth of a 8" one.
Ed
Absolutely. It has an 8 inch on it now. I want to replace it with another 8 inch. If I need heavy cutting I will use the 7. I plan to use this for small ripping and thin stock.

Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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rjent
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Posts: 2121
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico

Post by rjent »

That's it? :confused:

OK, can I use an adapter to fill a 5/8's hole for a 1/2 inch arbor. I am leaving in the AM.

Any help would be appreciated .... :o

Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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skou
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Location: Mesa (near Phoenix) Az

Post by skou »

Yes, you can.

A bit of info, if you get an 8.25 inch blade, make SURE you check the clearances on the table insert. You may need to adjust the bolts holding the table to the trunnion. The blade may hit on the front or rear of the slot. (A few thousandths won't matter, at a low speed, the carbide teeth will remove that clearance, but anything more, and you'll cut into the insert, or worse, the table.) You may be able to slide the table fore or aft, to accommodate the difference.

Of course, YMMV. (Your mileage may vary, or your machine won't accept this "alteration.")

An 8 inch blade will ALWAYS work, however.

(I'm wondering if I should "machine" a table, just to accept a table to run a 10 inch blade, like the early Mk5s, and the MkVII? You know, on the left side of the table. I've got 2 or 3 spare tables.)

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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skou
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Posts: 1944
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:53 am
Location: Mesa (near Phoenix) Az

Post by skou »

rjent wrote: BTW, my wife saw, out in the shop, the 10ER finished today, and said "MickeyD, eat your heart out":eek: Gotta love a supportive woman :D
Dick
Dick, take REAL CARE of that woman. (Otherwise some other Mark 10 guy may take her from you.):D Women like that are one in a billion! (The fact that she knows who MickeyD is, is a game changer!)

Let me know if/what I can do to help you.

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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dusty
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Posts: 21530
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

rjent wrote:Thanks Dusty for the response.

Oh, rest assured, I bought it to use. I have already used it enough to recognize the abilities of this 63 year old machine. After all we were both born in the year of '51 and I know what I am capable of ...... :D

Are Freud saw blades any good. I have read a lot about them, but so far just sales pitch.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance ....

Dick

I use Freud. Now that does not guarantee anything but Freud has served me well. I don't know about availability of 8". The market may dictate what you use.

This clears that up.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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BuckeyeDennis
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Location: Central Ohio

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

Based on recommendations here, I bought a Freud glue-line rip blade, thin kerf, for my 520. It works beautifully. According to the Freud website, they make an 8" version, but I couldn't find it available anywhere online.

High-quality thin-kerf 8" blades are probably going to be targeted at the radial arm saw market. Over at the DeWalt radial arm saw forum, the top recommended blade for 50's-vintage 3/4 hp saws is a Forrest WWI TCP (Triple-Chip Profile). That is special order, and will set you back over a hundred bucks. Forrest also makes a standard 8" WW1 blade at about the same price.

A close second is the Freud LU83R008. It has a 5/8" arbor and a 0.083" kerf. $43 at Amazon.

I may spring for the Forrest for my Dewalt MBF radial arm saw. But I will do little if any sawing on my 10ER, so the Freud would be my choice for that. If I ever get them restored, that is!
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