Hello All: I have been a shopsmith owner for a long time (10 ER & now Mark V). I mostly use my SS for band saw, drill press, etc. and rarely use the table saw function.
My current machine is a Mark V. It is the all gray rough finish model that I think is vintage 1980s? It sits idle for long periods of time. This week is the first time I ventured inside the machine for maintenance. I did a complete tear down and am reassembling it at this time. I downloaded many PDFs and got very valuable information...most from this forum... which is why i finally joined. I have been a reader for a long time.
My current problem: Speed control adjustment. I know this is a dumb question...but none of the diagrams indicate which position on the variable speed pulley is slow and which is fast. If I made a guess I would go with the tight (larger diameter) setting being the slow speed.
I would like some input on speed control and variable pulley positions and adjustments for reassembly. I marked the dials when I took it apart but am not sure about putting it back together correctly on the first try. A link to the proper FAQ would do nicely. Any other suggestiions will be greatly appreciated too.
And now...I'm off to the hardware store to buy a new allen screw (or two). The one that fits behind the speed control handle. Little sucker fell out and got lost on the garage floor. They bounce really well! Duhhhhhh!
Glad to be here. Blaze
Speed control pulley reinstall Mark V
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ChrisNeilan
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The speed control is fairly easy to reset to spec, but of course I can't remember right now how I did it. Someone will chime in shortly. As far as the screws, the easiest way to find the lost screw is to but a new one. I guarantee you'll find it as soon as you get the new ones!
Good luck and play safe.
Good luck and play safe.
Chris Neilan
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
Blaze welcome to the forum.
These two PDF's should help ya, if knot just ask. HOPE ya get the correct allen screw.
[ATTACH]26200[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26201[/ATTACH]
These two PDF's should help ya, if knot just ask. HOPE ya get the correct allen screw.
[ATTACH]26200[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26201[/ATTACH]
- Attachments
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how to do a high speed adjustment.PDF- (382.25 KiB) Downloaded 624 times
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- how to reset the outside speed dial.PDF
- (116.07 KiB) Downloaded 615 times
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Reassembly Questions Mark V
Hi Bob & Chris: Wow! My first post got me the answers that I needed. Thank You!
I got the set screw. In fact, it was only $.42, so I got two. That should cover the one that is likely to bounce again. Good information on the PDFs.
I should know this but it is nice for a second opinion from someone that has been there....& done that. Am I correct that the variable speed pulley (the one that is driven by the small motor pulley) is on high speed at its narrowest setting? This setting makes its outside diameter for the belt the largest setting. (The narrowest, if you will, at the outside rims.)
When I took off the speed handle and the inside gears, I first marked their positions. However, since the inside worm gear moved as I took it out for cleaning, I don't think the marks are worth much now.
I like the admonition from the PDF....it make take several tries.
My on/off switch is the old silver post type, not the new paddle kind. The wires are so difficult to get in place that I am going to use some short plug-in connectors and extend the wires to a more reachable length. Still short enough to not get caught up in the works though. All will still be inside the motor cover housing.
This unit also has a 120 v. aux light on a flex tube, that is bolted to the headstock. It is wired to the hot side of the switch so it can remain on when the machine is turned off. It has its own switch. I think that light is an add on but it may have come from the factory. I am the second owner (15 years ago). I do have the binders and manuals and can get a serial number if I know where to look. Best guess is 1980s or early 90s.
Hey Bob: You think, if I had your 100 sq. ft. shop, that I might have been able to find that set screw? At least my garage got a good sweeping. Sheeshhhh...only forty two cents and I spent at least two hours yesterday evening looking for that $%^^^&&& screw! LOL.
Last question; on the front of the spindle is a locking collar (just ahead of the rubber shock washer.) That collar has an indentation on one side. Which side goes against the spindle and which side faces out. I think the collar goes inside. My SS diagram pdfs are not clear enough to tell for sure. On my pdf "Parts list" this collar is shown as part #65.
Many Thanks: Blaze
I got the set screw. In fact, it was only $.42, so I got two. That should cover the one that is likely to bounce again. Good information on the PDFs.
I should know this but it is nice for a second opinion from someone that has been there....& done that. Am I correct that the variable speed pulley (the one that is driven by the small motor pulley) is on high speed at its narrowest setting? This setting makes its outside diameter for the belt the largest setting. (The narrowest, if you will, at the outside rims.)When I took off the speed handle and the inside gears, I first marked their positions. However, since the inside worm gear moved as I took it out for cleaning, I don't think the marks are worth much now.
I like the admonition from the PDF....it make take several tries. My on/off switch is the old silver post type, not the new paddle kind. The wires are so difficult to get in place that I am going to use some short plug-in connectors and extend the wires to a more reachable length. Still short enough to not get caught up in the works though. All will still be inside the motor cover housing.
This unit also has a 120 v. aux light on a flex tube, that is bolted to the headstock. It is wired to the hot side of the switch so it can remain on when the machine is turned off. It has its own switch. I think that light is an add on but it may have come from the factory. I am the second owner (15 years ago). I do have the binders and manuals and can get a serial number if I know where to look. Best guess is 1980s or early 90s.
Hey Bob: You think, if I had your 100 sq. ft. shop, that I might have been able to find that set screw? At least my garage got a good sweeping. Sheeshhhh...only forty two cents and I spent at least two hours yesterday evening looking for that $%^^^&&& screw! LOL.
Last question; on the front of the spindle is a locking collar (just ahead of the rubber shock washer.) That collar has an indentation on one side. Which side goes against the spindle and which side faces out. I think the collar goes inside. My SS diagram pdfs are not clear enough to tell for sure. On my pdf "Parts list" this collar is shown as part #65.
Many Thanks: Blaze
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The 'grooved' end of the knurled collar faces the headstock.
A light as you described was added by a previous owner(not oem).
Actually there are two speed control pulleys. The pulley attached to the motor shaft has two sheaves. The fan sheave is fixed on the shaft. The floating sheave moves in/out under tension of a large spring on the motor shaft. The floating sheave 'auto' adjusts for motor belt tension differences due to the control pulley being adjusted.
The control pulley is on the idler shaft inside the headstock. It also has two sheaves. The 'idler' sheave is fixed on the idler shaft. The 'control' sheave is positioned on the idler shaft by the speed control quadrant(aka porkchop).
Slow speed is when the control sheave is closest to the idler sheave thus creating a larger diameter for the belt to run. This causes greater tension on the belt so the floating sheave on the motor shaft moves out away from the fan sheave thus allowing the belt to run at a smaller diameter.
It is extremely important for the movable sheaves to be well lubricated so as to move without hesitation as speed is adjusted.
Since the control sheave squeezes the belt as the speed is adjusted towards slow, damage can occur if done so quickly that the sheaves do not self adjust. Same thing happens if adjusted without the pulleys turning. If the sheaves do not respond quickly to the speed control being adjusted towards fast, the clip on the end of the control sheave can be pulled by the quadrant. A properly lubricated control sheave will never be pulled by that clip. The clip is there to hold the center button of the bearing in the end of the control sheave so it does not rotate with the sheave.
More than you asked for, but pertinent.
Now a word of caution re set screws. Set screws have different 'ends'. They may be cupped, serrated cup, oval, flat, and 'half dog'(and others). I doubt the speed control handle screw matters as long as it only goes into the shaft indentation. Other places the end is critical.
A light as you described was added by a previous owner(not oem).
Actually there are two speed control pulleys. The pulley attached to the motor shaft has two sheaves. The fan sheave is fixed on the shaft. The floating sheave moves in/out under tension of a large spring on the motor shaft. The floating sheave 'auto' adjusts for motor belt tension differences due to the control pulley being adjusted.
The control pulley is on the idler shaft inside the headstock. It also has two sheaves. The 'idler' sheave is fixed on the idler shaft. The 'control' sheave is positioned on the idler shaft by the speed control quadrant(aka porkchop).
Slow speed is when the control sheave is closest to the idler sheave thus creating a larger diameter for the belt to run. This causes greater tension on the belt so the floating sheave on the motor shaft moves out away from the fan sheave thus allowing the belt to run at a smaller diameter.
It is extremely important for the movable sheaves to be well lubricated so as to move without hesitation as speed is adjusted.
Since the control sheave squeezes the belt as the speed is adjusted towards slow, damage can occur if done so quickly that the sheaves do not self adjust. Same thing happens if adjusted without the pulleys turning. If the sheaves do not respond quickly to the speed control being adjusted towards fast, the clip on the end of the control sheave can be pulled by the quadrant. A properly lubricated control sheave will never be pulled by that clip. The clip is there to hold the center button of the bearing in the end of the control sheave so it does not rotate with the sheave.
More than you asked for, but pertinent.
Now a word of caution re set screws. Set screws have different 'ends'. They may be cupped, serrated cup, oval, flat, and 'half dog'(and others). I doubt the speed control handle screw matters as long as it only goes into the shaft indentation. Other places the end is critical.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Bearning or belt noise?
Thanks Ghost:
I got it all back together last night and fired it up. All is good! However, there is a slight high pitched noise at all speeds. I recall reading something about a squeal noise somewhere on this forum but now can't find the thread.
Is there an adjustment that I am missing? All the speeds seem to work well, all lubrication points have been addressed, the speed dial correlates correctly, and the machine, minus that noise is working well.
The bearings all look good and tollerances (wear) are not noticeable.
My serial numbr 73xxx puts it in the spring of 1984 mfg. realm.
Any ideas on that noise?
Blaze
I got it all back together last night and fired it up. All is good! However, there is a slight high pitched noise at all speeds. I recall reading something about a squeal noise somewhere on this forum but now can't find the thread.
Is there an adjustment that I am missing? All the speeds seem to work well, all lubrication points have been addressed, the speed dial correlates correctly, and the machine, minus that noise is working well.
The bearings all look good and tollerances (wear) are not noticeable.
My serial numbr 73xxx puts it in the spring of 1984 mfg. realm.
Any ideas on that noise?
Blaze
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
My guess is a bearing, or something is rubbing.blaze wrote:Thanks Ghost:
I got it all back together last night and fired it up. All is good! However, there is a slight high pitched noise at all speeds. I recall reading something about a squeal noise somewhere on this forum but now can't find the thread.
Is there an adjustment that I am missing? All the speeds seem to work well, all lubrication points have been addressed, the speed dial correlates correctly, and the machine, minus that noise is working well.
The bearings all look good and tollerances (wear) are not noticeable.
My serial numbr 73xxx puts it in the spring of 1984 mfg. realm.
Any ideas on that noise?
Blaze
Maybe it thinks it is a band saw.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
My guess is that the motor sheave is to close to the housing." wrote:My guess is a bearing, or something is rubbing.
Maybe it thinks it is a band saw.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
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.
Bob
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I think that would be more of a scrapping than squealing.beeg wrote:My guess is that the motor sheave is to close to the housing.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I'm going with Bearing noise too!
Yes. This is not a scrape noise. just a high pitched squealing noice. It is a constant pitch and volume through all the speed ranges. Slightly annoying but not intollerable. I'm more concerned for the machine than for my hearing. I also think it is a bearing sound.
i will run it a while and see what progresses (or regresses). Thank you all!
Blaze
i will run it a while and see what progresses (or regresses). Thank you all!
Blaze