Nick, Bandsaw circle jig.

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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cincinnati
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Nick, Bandsaw circle jig.

Post by cincinnati »

I have the Shopsmith bandsaw fence kit with circle jig and just can't figure it out. I always end up with a flat side on my circle and can't seem to get the pin to stay in the wood.
Could be a good sawdust video idea.
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

cincinnati wrote:I have the Shopsmith bandsaw fence kit with circle jig and just can't figure it out. I always end up with a flat side on my circle and can't seem to get the pin to stay in the wood.
Could be a good sawdust video idea.

I will second the request or maybe something using Nick new giant tables.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

I'd have to actually use that jig before I can comment on your request. I'm not sure whether the "flat side" you report is due to poorly witten instructions, improper installation, or a flaw in jig design. I have always cut large circles simply by swinging a router around on the end of a compass beam. Works great.

With all good wishes,
paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

Nick wrote:I'd have to actually use that jig before I can comment on your request. I'm not sure whether the "flat side" you report is due to poorly witten instructions, improper installation, or a flaw in jig design. I have always cut large circles simply by swinging a router around on the end of a compass beam. Works great.

With all good wishes,

My router is a little shallow for bowl blanks;) You also left out my favorite personal reason operator error.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
shydragon
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Post by shydragon »

Before I put the shopsmith in storage years ago, I had used the circle jig a few times, and I don't remember any flat spots, but there could have been.

You could make a simple jig, and line up the original index hole and round it out on the disc sander.

I watch them at the pattern shop. When they are making the risers for our patterns, they just take square stock, mark out the inscribed sphere on one end, then cut 45 degrees at each corner. Then they just stand it on one end, push it up to the disc sander and start rotating it free hand. It just amazes me how round they get it. I asked them one time why they didn't put it in a lathe and turn it. There answer, It is much faster this way. Our risers go anywhere from 4" diameter to 12" diameter and up to 14" high.
Pat

Oregon

1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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cincinnati
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Post by cincinnati »

Instructions ??????? I had to read that BEFORE using it? LOL!!!!
charlese
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Post by charlese »

cincinnati wrote:I have the Shopsmith bandsaw fence kit with circle jig and just can't figure it out. I always end up with a flat side on my circle and can't seem to get the pin to stay in the wood.
Could be a good sawdust video idea.
To avoid that awful flat spot, make sure your circle blank is set up at the start with the radius of the wood circle perfectly fitting between the pivot point and the teeth of the saw blade. No space between the blade and the blade and no force applied to the blade. (Don't squeeze the wood between the blade and the pivot.) Said in another way, the starting point of the wood has to perfectly fit between your fixed pivot point and the teeth of the blade.

After making sure the jig pivot point is directly perpendicular to the saw teeth - push the point into the wood and tighten the wing nut.* Rotate the wood blank VERY slowly at first to allow the saw teeth to start cutting an arc into the wood. (kinda like a nibbling cut) The first 1/4" of sawing is very important. If necessary, counter rotate the wood to the starting point and begin again slowly. Then don't rush the cut and you should produce a perfect circle.

Flat spots can occur from rushing the cut and the blade deflecting a bit. If this is the case, do the cut over from the starting point. take it slow and it should come out round.

Wow! That sounds confusing, but it is really simple once you get the hang of it. Kinda like all woodworking tools. (Even using the router system, uphill cutting on parts of a circle can cause chip-out issues.)

*The pivot point is (should be) very sharp. I is relatively easy to push into any wood fr enough to hold the piece. Sounds like you are trying to rush things too much! Remember, it's a pivot - not a fence. You'll have to gently rotate the wood around the pivot.

Hope that helps!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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