Today in the shop (handle positions)
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Today in the shop (handle positions)
So shopsmith comes out with a new handle that lets you position it where you want it to be rather then the 3 fixed positions.
When I'm reading this I was thinking I don't see a problem with the current positions are. I'm reading about the lever coming between the buttons on the powerpro and such.
After more thinking I decided to take a look at the location my lever is and so the next 3 pictures show it the way it is now.
[ATTACH]26298[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26299[/ATTACH]
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So I ask myself, "Ed what if you loosen the quill and back it out and then let it back or go forward to off set it by a tooth (pinion gear engagement)?" I answered my question as it was as I expected to see.
Now if I were the type to give you all the answers all to all of questions what kind a member would I be? You learn by doing so have at it.
In fact if you want to do it with math that would be great as I don't have the time right now....
Just take a look at my first picture and now this one.
[ATTACH]26301[/ATTACH]
Must be majic???
No I don't think so.
Ed
When I'm reading this I was thinking I don't see a problem with the current positions are. I'm reading about the lever coming between the buttons on the powerpro and such.
After more thinking I decided to take a look at the location my lever is and so the next 3 pictures show it the way it is now.
[ATTACH]26298[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26299[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26300[/ATTACH]
So I ask myself, "Ed what if you loosen the quill and back it out and then let it back or go forward to off set it by a tooth (pinion gear engagement)?" I answered my question as it was as I expected to see.
Now if I were the type to give you all the answers all to all of questions what kind a member would I be? You learn by doing so have at it.
In fact if you want to do it with math that would be great as I don't have the time right now....
Just take a look at my first picture and now this one.
[ATTACH]26301[/ATTACH]
Must be majic???
No I don't think so.
Ed
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- JPG
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360° / 18 teeth = 20° / tooth.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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" wrote:360° / 18 teeth = 20° / tooth.
360° / 18 teeth = 20° / tooth further modified by the three positions of the quill handle ?????
My two machines are very close to being the same but both are just a little bit different than Ed's. I don't know exactly what this means if anything.
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I believe these differences were anticipated and that is why the quill handle is not permanently attached in a fixed position.
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- Quill Handle 005 (Custom).jpg (190.81 KiB) Viewed 4369 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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For 'starters', your pix is from the back side. After looking at 'one' out of machine quill assembly, the three indentations on both ends appear to align.
Since the gear is 'molded' onto the shaft, I assume your difference is a normal manufacturing 'variation'.
i.e. I do not think it is intentional.
I also think since the handle is movable, there is no attempt to make them all the same.
The quill rack machining could also affect this. Another who cares re making all identical.
Since the gear is 'molded' onto the shaft, I assume your difference is a normal manufacturing 'variation'.
i.e. I do not think it is intentional.
I also think since the handle is movable, there is no attempt to make them all the same.
The quill rack machining could also affect this. Another who cares re making all identical.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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" wrote:For 'starters', your pix is from the back side. After looking at 'one' out of machine quill assembly, the three indentations on both ends appear to align.
Since the gear is 'molded' onto the shaft, I assume your difference is a normal manufacturing 'variation'.
i.e. I do not think it is intentional.
I also think since the handle is movable, there is no attempt to make them all the same.
The quill rack machining could also affect this. Another who cares re making all identical.
My picture equates to Ed,s 2nd picture and the slight difference probably has nothing to do with manufacturing. Just the difference in wear and tear could make some difference. My machine is 25 years old and Ed's is a PowerPro (new quill assembly).
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Dusty
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Not likely! The quill is not changed with an upgrade.dusty wrote:My picture equates to Ed,s 2nd picture and the slight difference probably has nothing to do with manufacturing. Just the difference in wear and tear could make some difference. My machine is 25 years old and Ed's is a PowerPro (new quill assembly).
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When the ball end of the handle presses into the ball shaped depression on the shaft, all wear effect is removed(unless it wobbles there).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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" wrote:Not likely! The quill is not changed with an upgrade.
When the ball end of the handle presses into the ball shaped depression on the shaft, all wear effect is removed(unless it wobbles there).
http://www.shopsmith.com/shopsmithpowerpro/pp_ways_to_upgrade.htm
Do-It-Yourself PowerPro Upgrade - We will send you a new PowerPro motor, all electronic circuitry, Digital Control Panel, new Upper Drive Sleeve Assembly, new two-bearing Quill, new Poly-V belts and new Power Cord for self-installation in your current headstock. You will also receive a step-by-step printed Upgrade Manual and all necessary drilling templates, a drill guide and bits for precise machining of the mounting holes. You should be able to complete the upgrade in about four hours.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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dusty wrote:http://www.shopsmith.com/shopsmithpowerpro/pp_ways_to_upgrade.htm
Do-It-Yourself PowerPro Upgrade - We will send you a new PowerPro motor, all electronic circuitry, Digital Control Panel, new Upper Drive Sleeve Assembly, new two-bearing Quill, new Poly-V belts and new Power Cord for self-installation in your current headstock. You will also receive a step-by-step printed Upgrade Manual and all necessary drilling templates, a drill guide and bits for precise machining of the mounting holes. You should be able to complete the upgrade in about four hours.
Ahhh yes. But no quill feed shaft and all all appurtenant hardware.
See a quill feed shaft etc. here?
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Headstock lock is also missing.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
When I finished turning my 6 pens today I went back and made a few more changes so this becomes more and more obvious.
When you remove the quill or get a new one you need to wind the spring so the quill will return. If you turn it just one turn and then put the quill in you might find you have it set too light and it doesn't return well. So you take it out and wind it 2 times and see how that works... (Shopsmith does have a value that they recommend but it is not a law. I often have the spring set with less return pressure then they recommend. In fact I change it from time to time depending on what I'm doing.
Now the problem that I've heard that people have is the lever ends up being in the wrong position for the powerpro. I would guess that it looks like this:
[ATTACH]26339[/ATTACH]
Now remember that the handle is not moved to another notch, it stays in the same one it is in that picture. By moving one gear position (20 deg) the handle is now located as shown here. Yes this does change the spring tension but believe me it is no big deal.
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Remember this is moved one tooth, but it still not where I like to position my handle so lets go one more tooth.
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AH just like I like it and the tension also feels good.
Looks like I don't have to order any new handle to solve this issue.
Ed
When you remove the quill or get a new one you need to wind the spring so the quill will return. If you turn it just one turn and then put the quill in you might find you have it set too light and it doesn't return well. So you take it out and wind it 2 times and see how that works... (Shopsmith does have a value that they recommend but it is not a law. I often have the spring set with less return pressure then they recommend. In fact I change it from time to time depending on what I'm doing.
Now the problem that I've heard that people have is the lever ends up being in the wrong position for the powerpro. I would guess that it looks like this:
[ATTACH]26339[/ATTACH]
Now remember that the handle is not moved to another notch, it stays in the same one it is in that picture. By moving one gear position (20 deg) the handle is now located as shown here. Yes this does change the spring tension but believe me it is no big deal.
[ATTACH]26340[/ATTACH]
Remember this is moved one tooth, but it still not where I like to position my handle so lets go one more tooth.
[ATTACH]26341[/ATTACH]
AH just like I like it and the tension also feels good.
Looks like I don't have to order any new handle to solve this issue.
Ed
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