Shopsmith Planer Pro - Removing Rusty Knives

[theothermrrogers]

Hello All,

I recently picked up a Planer Pro for a true song. Its in good shape with some surface rust (not bad at all).

The cutterhead has some rust on it as well. I've been trying to remove the blades, and I can get the wedge fasteners out, and one of the wedges and its knife.

The other two wedges don't want to move, even with good pressure on the knife setting screws. I don't want to strip out the setting screws, but I need to get the knives out.

I've soaked the assembly with PB Blaster.

I now see two options:
1: Whack the knives with a soft blow mallet, brass drift rod or hardwood dowel.
2: Apply heat to get them to pop out.

Are there any other options? The planer is in very good shape. I don't think the knives had ever been taken out.

Any advice would be really helpful.

Ray

[JPG]

The wedges need to come out first.

If you 'whack' something, it needs to be the wedges in a direction that will drive them 'up'.

Are you soaking the head, or submerging it? I am guessing it is still in the planer, so spraying is likely what you have done.

Can you get under the wedges to pry?

The leveling screws are mostly under the blades. Backing them out will jam the wedges more so. Run the screws away from the blade and then try 'whacking'/prying the wedges

[theothermrrogers]

I don't have the cutterhead out of the planer, so I'd rather not have to pull it out.

It seams to me that I could take a long "L" shaped allen wrench that fits under the wedge, clamp it to a visegrip, and then hammer "up" on the visegrip to pop out the wedge.

How does this sound to you?

Ray

[WmZiggy]

Some of my thoughts as a SS planer owner:

Under the best of conditions these wedges will set tight. Mine, which are in excellent shape will "pop" up and out by backing the leveling screws out. You normally have to back both leveling screws on each side slowly (a partial turn at a time on each side) applying pressure on the wedge till it pops. You have to go with patience. However, if you are dealing with rust or other corrosion I would use a penetrating oil leaving it on the wedge joints for a night, then apply slow and even pressure with the leveling screws. I am not certain if there is enough room to get a screw driver or other leverage tool under the wedges to pop them without removing the whole head. Even then, a screw driver will not provide the slow even pressure that the leveling screws will on each end of the wedge making slow even partial turns on each side. Finally, with blades in there, above all else you must go carefully so as not to slip and cause great damage to a hand.

[WmZiggy]

PS: I checked my manual and it notes that the wedges are designed to set very tight. They also only recommend using the leveling screws to pop them out, 1/4 turn on each end at a time. This is all they recommend. Failing this method, I would contact SS. I would not pound them, nor would I use the 'L' shaped 3/16" Allen wrench under the wedges. I guarantee you, you will bend the wrench; that's how tight the wedges set for, as SS states: "safety reasons".

[JPG]

[quote="WmZiggy"]PS: I checked my manual and it notes that the wedges are designed to set very tight. They also only recommend using the leveling screws to pop them out, 1/4 turn on each end at a time. This is all they recommend. Failing this method, I would contact SS. I would not pound them, nor would I use the 'L' shaped 3/16" Allen wrench under the wedges. I guarantee you, you will bend the wrench]

Thank You for that. I have always done it that way with the jointer, but thought perhaps the planer blades being longer might be less successful.

Checked my manual. It states to back out the leveling screws 1/4 turn at a time and move 'left to right' including the center screw. Repeat again always left to right. It also says to leave the wedge retaining screws in after backing them out 2-3 turns first.

[theothermrrogers]

I did as directed, and got the planer knives out.

One of them popped out and landed at my feet!!

No problems, except I buggered up one of the hex holes in one of the knife setting screws. Not a big deal (I think it's a whole $0.80 at Shopsmith).

Thanks for all of the direction!!!

Ray

[Mike907]

Checked my manual. It states to back out the leveling screws 1/4 turn at a time and move 'left to right' including the center screw. Repeat again always left to right. It also says to leave the wedge retaining screws in after backing them out 2-3 turns first.

My manual, (dated 12/91), is confusing, in that it says to go right, middle, left, but later in the same paragraph, says that "working carefully from left to right relieves the pressure on the knife..."

Mike

[JPG]

My manual, (dated 12/91), is confusing, in that it says to go right, middle, left, but later in the same paragraph, says that "working carefully from left to right relieves the pressure on the knife..."

Mike

Mine (10/82) states: "Using the 5/32"? Allen wrench again, turn the right knife leveling screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn. (See figure 5.) This usually requires a strong twist if the wedges are properly seated. Move to the middle screw and turn it 1/4 turn, then the left screw.

Repeat this procedure, moving from right to left, turning each screw 1/4 turn at a time, until the wedges pop loose. Working carefully from left to right relieves the pressure on the knife in such a way that it prevents the knife from flexing and possibly breaking.

So nine years later it is the same(inconsistent).

I think we can assume that it is a long overlooked 'typo' and that L-R or R-L does not matter as long as the repetition is done in the same direction throughout.

Love these questions that require one to 'read the manual'(carefully)! Better yet when they are answered 'publicly'.

I do not think the L-R/R-L issue exists for the jointer since there is no center screw.

[WmZiggy]

I did as directed, and got the planer knives out.

One of them popped out and landed at my feet!!

No problems, except I buggered up one of the hex holes in one of the knife setting screws. Not a big deal (I think it's a whole $0.80 at Shopsmith).

Thanks for all of the direction!!!

Ray

I am not surprised for when they pop, they pop. As you noted, better to goober a screw than mess-up a whole head or wedge. Better still, wrench bending around those knives gives me the willies; For anyone who has ever busted a knuckle you'll understand.