Possible PowerPro 110-220 adapter

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:15 pm

I was in a local RV dealership this afternoon and bought this for $10

[ATTACH]26438[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]26439[/ATTACH]

I think this may be a possibility for those like me that want to run the PP under both voltages.

I cobbled together an extension from a dryer power cord and 120F receptacle, but I don't really like it. Plus, the outlet is against a far wall and I plan to move it (have it moved), so thought I would give this a try.

The same part on Amazon is double what I paid.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55155-Trail ... grip+55155

If you want dual function and don't wish to try to build something, this might be an alternative.

Yes, I am aware that it rates it at only 125 volts, however the construction of this thing makes me believe it is capable.

The electrician is coming out in three weeks to wire up a receptacle from the ceiling (less chance of tripping over power cored suspended from the ceiling) and it WAS going to be 120 but instead I'll have him run the 240.

We'll see how (if?) it is a better working solution.

Be well,
Ben

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:17 pm

I have been thinking about the same thing and look forward to see how it works. So far, I have not been able to pull the PP down enough to feel like I need the extra 1/4 HP. But I know it will make a difference.

Keep us up to day please!

Dick

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:36 pm

Ben,
I think the slope of the lower two knife blades will not let you plug into a standard 220V receptacle. Doesn't a 220 receptacle have vertical lower knife slots?

What you have here is a 30 amp/120V to 20 amp/120V adapter. These are sold to folks that must plug into a 30 amp plug in a campground and only have a standard 20 camp wall plug for their device.

I have one of those in reverse where I can plug in my 30 amp unit to a standard household outlet. This adapter will not increase amperage at all. Using this allows me to use most of the things in my motorhome, but running the A/C is not recommended as the A/C pulls more than 20 amps.

I also have a 50 amp/120V to 30 amp/120V adapter so I can plug into a 50 amp receptacle. I can still only use 30 amps.

These adapters are only for such purposes.

Jack Wilson · Post by **Jack Wilson** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:48 pm

Chuck,

I think you are correct.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/pg/30amp_service.htm

Jack

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:53 pm

For starters, your electrician will not(should not) install a receptacle for that 'RV' adapter. As already stated, that is a 125v 30A plug.

What I suggest is a 20A 240v receptacle(NEMA 6-20R). or a 15A 240v receptacle(NEMA 6-15R).

The mating plug should be installed on the Power Pro.

There is no 'legal' way to pigtail an adapter, but a 120v plug to 240v receptacle is the lesser of the two 'evils'.

P.S. 20A is overkill for the power pro at 240v.

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 12:02 am

charlese wrote:Ben,
I think the slope of the lower two knife blades will not let you plug into a standard 220V receptacle. Doesn't a 220 receptacle have vertical lower knife slots?

What you have here is a 30 amp/120V to 20 amp/120V adapter. These are sold to folks that must plug into a 30 amp plug in a campground and only have a standard 20 camp wall plug for their device.

I have one of those in reverse where I can plug in my 30 amp unit to a standard household outlet. This adapter will not increase amperage at all. Using this allows me to use most of the things in my motorhome, but running the A/C is not recommended as the A/C pulls more than 20 amps.

I also have a 50 amp/120V to 30 amp/120V adapter so I can plug into a 50 amp receptacle. I can still only use 30 amps.

These adapters are only for such purposes.

You and Jack could be 100% correct and I've bought a piece that will not work (which means another addition for the Eb#% sales list

). That's why I'm going to let the electrician decide if it's feasible. I will have him install an overhead receptacle but whether it's 110 or 220 will depend on his words of wisdom.

With companies making and selling electronics that can switch between 110 and 220, I find it frustrating that something has to be cobbled together.

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll let you know what the electrician decides.

Be well,
Ben

tenbears · Post by **tenbears** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:00 pm

Looks to me that it is the following Angle Travel Trailer Plug, 30 Amps, NEMA Configuration TT-30P, Number of Poles 2, Number of Wires 3, Voltage 125VAC 1 Phase, HP 2, Color Black, Industrial Grade, Material of Construction Nylon, Cord Size 0.687 to 0.875 In., Standards UL/CSA/NOM/NEMA WD-6/ANSI C-73.

Other that the color of the plug that is not classified as a 220v plug. A dryer receptacle has three legs plus ground and is a 50Amp plug while a 220v 20amp is a three hole receptacle and as you look at the plug a T on the right, horizontal prong left and ground pin bottom. A simple google search details all you need to do the installation.

However if you have the matching receptacle you wire the black to one leg and the white to the other with ground to the third. Make sure that you are also running a home run all the way to a 220 breaker in the box picking up 120V on each leg (Blk & Wht). I for one would go with the correct NEMA plugs and receptacles.

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 2:42 pm

A few mounts before I have to get back to less fun things....

I appreciate the feedback, but not wanting to start any brew-ha-has here I have one underlying question... Why not hook it up?
Okay, I understand that "not legal" portion, but legal doesn't always mean plausible, correct or even rational. Too many years designing and building for the Feds in their various departments, agencies, sects and cults made that "abundantly" clear!

So... If the breaker is correct, the wire from the breaker to the receptacle is sufficient to handle the larger voltage, the receptacle is of the same quality and material strength as a similar receptacle designed for 220, the pigtail is rated to a minimum 1875 watts, the wiring can be accomplished without some strange and voodooish arrangement.... Why not? What is the "rational and realistic" fallout?

It will be at least Sunday if not mid week next week before I'll have time to swoop in, read and digest any and all responses (still dealing with previous CFs not of my making

), so if I don't get back to your responses, it's not that I'm ignoring you, just otherwise tied up (and not in a good way!

)

Be well,
Ben

BuckeyeDennis · Post by **BuckeyeDennis** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:42 pm

benush26 wrote:A few mounts before I have to get back to less fun things....

I appreciate the feedback, but not wanting to start any brew-ha-has here I have one underlying question... Why not hook it up?
Okay, I understand that "not legal" portion, but legal doesn't always mean plausible, correct or even rational. Too many years designing and building for the Feds in their various departments, agencies, sects and cults made that "abundantly" clear!

So... If the breaker is correct, the wire from the breaker to the receptacle is sufficient to handle the larger voltage, the receptacle is of the same quality and material strength as a similar receptacle designed for 220, the pigtail is rated to a minimum 1875 watts, the wiring can be accomplished without some strange and voodooish arrangement.... Why not? What is the "rational and realistic" fallout?

It will be at least Sunday if not mid week next week before I'll have time to swoop in, read and digest any and all responses (still dealing with previous CFs not of my making ), so if I don't get back to your responses, it's not that I'm ignoring you, just otherwise tied up (and not in a good way! )

Be well,
Ben

You are correct that the wiring you propose should be perfectly serviceable, as far as component capabilities go.

The reason for the prohibition is simple. If you wire a standardized 110v outlet to 220v, there's a good chance that sooner or later, someone will plug an actual 110v device into it. Which will in all likelihood destroy the 110v device, and may also be a fire hazard.

In the U.S., the national electrical code is published the NFPA, which is an acronym for National Fire Prevention Association.

Why not just install a 220v plug on your PowerPro?

rjent · Post by **rjent** » Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:46 pm

benush26 wrote:A few mounts before I have to get back to less fun things....

I appreciate the feedback, but not wanting to start any brew-ha-has here I have one underlying question... Why not hook it up?
Okay, I understand that "not legal" portion, but legal doesn't always mean plausible, correct or even rational. Too many years designing and building for the Feds in their various departments, agencies, sects and cults made that "abundantly" clear!

So... If the breaker is correct, the wire from the breaker to the receptacle is sufficient to handle the larger voltage, the receptacle is of the same quality and material strength as a similar receptacle designed for 220, the pigtail is rated to a minimum 1875 watts, the wiring can be accomplished without some strange and voodooish arrangement.... Why not? What is the "rational and realistic" fallout?

It will be at least Sunday if not mid week next week before I'll have time to swoop in, read and digest any and all responses (still dealing with previous CFs not of my making ), so if I don't get back to your responses, it's not that I'm ignoring you, just otherwise tied up (and not in a good way! )

Be well,
Ben

Absofriginlootley LOL

That is exactly what I was going to do as well. Three wires for both hookups. Use them as necessary. It is, after all, your machine and your building. Your M7 can be plugged into 110 or 240 as you see fit ..... great solution!

Dick

Yes, I often swim against the flow ....