Table Tilt Lock

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dusty
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Table Tilt Lock (Models 505/510/520)

Post by dusty »

Over the course of my Shopsmith experience (25+ years) I have had my Main Work Table slip. I usually attributed this to having not properly secured the Table Tilt Lock and in a way I now suspect that that was the case. But, it likely was not because I didn't attempt to apply the lock.

I don't have this theory validated and I don't know exactly how to do that but I believe this next photo image, of a supposedly locked table tilt,tells the story.

[ATTACH]26759[/ATTACH]

That gap should not be there! To validate my theory I would need a sampling of table assemblies that slip as well as though that do not. I can not acquire that sampling so all I can do is pay attention to this gap when I do a table alignment and if the gap exists - redo it all. I believe the gap is a function of the the location of the rear trunnion when the table is secured.

I have some suspicion that that the oversized rear trunnion bolt holes contribute to the propensity of this to happen.

more to be added
Attachments
Slipping Tilt Lock 024 (Custom).jpg
Slipping Tilt Lock 024 (Custom).jpg (119.83 KiB) Viewed 3163 times
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote: . . .
I have some suspicion that that the oversized rear trunnion bolt holes contribute to the propensity of this to happen.

more to be added
Shhh! Maybe Ed will miss this thread!:rolleyes:

That gap looks bigger than what I would attribute to the 'hole enlarging'.:confused:
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Post by algale »

I'd say, "there's your problem!" By the way, I have "oversized" rear trunnion holes (which I redrilled). And here's what my tilt lock looks like locked.
[ATTACH]26760[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26761[/ATTACH]

P.S. Dusty, your picture is upside down!
P.P.S. There be light rust on my trunnion. Maybe I should wax it? :rolleyes:
Attachments
FullSizeRender(2).jpg
FullSizeRender(2).jpg (135.5 KiB) Viewed 3164 times
FullSizeRender(1).jpg
FullSizeRender(1).jpg (135.13 KiB) Viewed 3165 times
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

algale wrote:I'd say, "there's your problem!" By the way, I have "oversized" rear trunnion holes (which I redrilled). And here's what my tilt lock looks like locked.
[ATTACH]26760[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26761[/ATTACH]

P.S. Dusty, your picture is upside down!
P.P.S. There be light rust on my trunnion. Maybe I should wax it? :rolleyes:
You might be right; probably are. The question I have now is how does one do the alignment while ensuring that the trunnions do contact the table bar.

Actually, it is not upside down:rolleyes::)

The table is upside down on the work bench.
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

algale wrote:I'd say, "there's your problem!" By the way, I have "oversized" rear trunnion holes (which I redrilled). And here's what my tilt lock looks like locked.
[ATTACH]26760[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26761[/ATTACH]

P.S. Dusty, your picture is upside down!
P.P.S. There be light rust on my trunnion. Maybe I should wax it? :rolleyes:
Aaaaaahhhhhh!!! :eek: :D :eek: :D

Seriously, though, a light coating of Penetrol should prevent rust formation without making the clamping surfaces slippery.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

BuckeyeDennis wrote:Aaaaaahhhhhh!!! :eek: :D :eek: :D

Seriously, though, a light coating of Penetrol should prevent rust formation without making the clamping surfaces slippery.

Stickey??????:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Post by algale »

[quote="dusty"]You might be right]
You've got the question wrong Dusty. The question is how one can do a table alignment and end up with the trunnions as far away from the table bar as in your photo. EDIT: Or maybe you've been using a dollar coin rather than a dollar bill for Nick's trick??:D

As I said in one of my posts, I would assume that with the table bolts loosened, applying the tilt lock would drive the trunnions flush to the table bar. That is unless the lock wedge is being held off by the little ledge shown in the photo I borrowed from Buckeye and annotated in a prior post in this thread.
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BuckeyeDennis
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Post by BuckeyeDennis »

JPG wrote:Stickey??????:D
Not if you let it dry overnight, and then wipe it down with WD40. Straight mineral spirits would probably work also, if anyone is worried about the modest lubricity of WD40.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The dollar bill is inserted in the 'front' trunion clamp.

Dusty's pix is of the rear clamp.

Question is, why is the rear clamp NOT against the rear trunion when the front is against the front trunion. AIUI, the clamps should both be squeezing the trunions as the clamp is tightened.

I believe the 0.005 shim is to assure the trunions do not drag against the pads at the rear due to non flatness of the trunion.

Gotta go look at my 510 table now.:rolleyes:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Post by algale »

JPG wrote:The dollar bill is inserted in the 'front' trunion clamp. Yes, but when the bill (or coin :D) is removed isn't the gap split between front and rear?

Dusty's pix is of the rear clamp.

Question is, why is the rear clamp NOT against the rear trunion when the front is against the front trunion. AIUI, the clamps should both be squeezing the trunions as the clamp is tightened.

I believe the 0.005 shim is to assure the trunions do not drag against the pads at the rear due to non flatness of the trunion.

Gotta go look at my 510 table now.:rolleyes:
Got to assume the .005 gap is split between the trunnions when the clamp is unclamped. Or am I wrong?
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