Shopsmith 510 Table system

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nhelsinger
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Shopsmith 510 Table system

Post by nhelsinger »

Good Afternoon Everyone and Happy Friday!

I am a fairly new owner to my shopsmith 510 that I bought used this past spring. I have recently completed a move from IL back to my home state of Ohio! As I am setting up my wood shop and finally getting a better chance to explore my shopsmith, it has came to my realization that I may be missing a few parts....

Is the table supposed to have the 4 or 5 parts on the 510?
1) The main table, for the saw blade to go through
2) An end table with studs to slide into the ends
3) A second end table with studs for opposite end
4) A floating table (meant to suspend between two attached tables)

This is what I have above,

5)A second floating table (I don't have this, but it makes sense to me that it would have had one)

I also have found that I am missing the telescoping legs. Do these include the long metal bars that attach horizontally through the table tubes?

I have been debating upgrading my table to the 520....is this a huge advantage, or should I play around with what I currently have before making the plunge.

Also, when measuring cuts on the table saw, what is the most accurate way to measure for where the fence needs to go? I have been using a tape measurer from the blade to the fence. It would be nice if there was some kind of attached scale on the main table, however with the table moving independently of the blade, this would be a challenge.

I look forward to working and discussing the world of woodworking with all of you!

Any woodworkers in the Columbus area, I am always up for learning something new!
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kablerj
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Location: Meyersdale PA

Post by kablerj »

You would usually have the main table, 2 floating tables, and a end mounted table. When I got my 520, it came with two mounted tables and one floating table. The PO said it was a special version. I'm not sure if that is true or not. Mine did come with the legs, which do come in handy. The horizontal pipes which are in addition to the legs are needed to use the floating table, and provide rigidity for the whole table system.
Hello from Somerset in the beautiful Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands.

Mark 7, Mark VII, Mark V 520, Mark V 510 x 2, Mark V 500
SPT's - Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Jointer, strip sander, Oscillating Sander, Speed Increaser
SS Freestanding - Pro Planer, Scroll Saw, Overarm Pin Router, Power Station, DC3000 x 2
Made for SS - Incra iBox, Ring Master

"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
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kablerj
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Location: Meyersdale PA

Post by kablerj »

Oh and about the 510 520 choice. I think everyone agrees that the 520 is a better system. But opinions vary on just how much better, and is it worth the price. You can find many threads on this subject here in this forum. My suggestion, use the 510 for a while to see if it suits your craft.

As far as positioning the fence, it depends on how accurate you need to be. Most of the time, I use an Incra steel ruler, but you can buy fence systems that are accurate to the thousandth.
Hello from Somerset in the beautiful Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands.

Mark 7, Mark VII, Mark V 520, Mark V 510 x 2, Mark V 500
SPT's - Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Jointer, strip sander, Oscillating Sander, Speed Increaser
SS Freestanding - Pro Planer, Scroll Saw, Overarm Pin Router, Power Station, DC3000 x 2
Made for SS - Incra iBox, Ring Master

"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
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dusty
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Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

nhelsinger wrote:Good Afternoon Everyone and Happy Friday!

I am a fairly new owner to my shopsmith 510 that I bought used this past spring. I have recently completed a move from IL back to my home state of Ohio! As I am setting up my wood shop and finally getting a better chance to explore my shopsmith, it has came to my realization that I may be missing a few parts....

Is the table supposed to have the 4 or 5 parts on the 510?
1) The main table, for the saw blade to go through
2) An end table with studs to slide into the ends aka extension table
3) A second end table with studs for opposite end aka 2nd extension table
4) A floating table (meant to suspend between two attached tables)

This is what I have above,

5)A second floating table (I don't have this, but it makes sense to me that it would have had one) I have one but I very seldom use it.

I also have found that I am missing the telescoping legs. Do these include the long metal bars that attach horizontally through the table tubes?

I have been debating upgrading my table to the 520....is this a huge advantage, or should I play around with what I currently have before making the plunge.

Also, when measuring cuts on the table saw, what is the most accurate way to measure for where the fence needs to go? I have been using a tape measurer from the blade to the fence. It would be nice if there was some kind of attached scale on the main table, however with the table moving independently of the blade, this would be a challenge.

I look forward to working and discussing the world of woodworking with all of you!

Any woodworkers in the Columbus area, I am always up for learning something new!

The 520 provides you with an adjustable metal ruler but that too I do not rely on. Just as on my 510, I use a metal ruler. I keep a 6", 12" and 24" nearby whenever I am working on the table sat.

In my opinion, retractable steel tapes are for use when building a stick house.

I suggest that you use the 510 for a significant amount of time and learn it's better characteristics as well as it's short comings. You will find the short comings to be few. A 510 to 520 upgrade is expensive. You really must need the 520 to justify it financially. I have and use both and cannot fault to 510 against the 520.

If cost is not a factor - go all the way and get a PowerPro headstock and double tilt along with the 510 to 520 table system upgrade. Then you'll be top of the line.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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algale
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The $3 Self-Zeroing 36" Direct Reading Rip Scale

Post by algale »

Can't comment on 510 vs. 520 but for measuring rip cuts, get yourself a thin aluminum ruler that slips under the fence.

Here's my thread on it.

http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?p=138615#post138615
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Ed in Tampa
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Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida

Post by Ed in Tampa »

kablerj wrote:Oh and about the 510 520 choice. I think everyone agrees that the 520 is a better system...

I say day and night better.

My opinion
500 = Excellence and Precision
510 = JUNK
520 = nearly as good as 500
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
nhelsinger
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:22 pm

Post by nhelsinger »

Thank you everyone for your replies! Great advice. I think for now I will hold on to my 510 system, but I am definitely going to order the telescoping legs and the horizontal tubes for the floating tables. (I have 2, but I think I need 4 total). I used the saw this weekend, and used some advice about squaring up the table and I was very impressed with its performance.

Thanks,

Nathan
nhelsinger
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Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:22 pm

Post by nhelsinger »

algale wrote:Can't comment on 510 vs. 520 but for measuring rip cuts, get yourself a thin aluminum ruler that slips under the fence.

Here's my thread on it.

http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?p=138615#post138615
Great advice! I will definitely have to give this a try. This was my biggest reason for wanting to go to a 520 for greater accuracy, but I think this will help greatly!
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beeg
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Location: St. Louis,Mo.

Post by beeg »

nhelsinger wrote:This was my biggest reason for wanting to go to a 520 for greater accuracy, but I think this will help greatly!
I think the accuracy is more in you setup and alignment.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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