I'm rebuilding my 10e and just got my order from McMaster-Carr for the headstock bearings and pulley. You may recall from a previous post how I completely destroyed my headstock pulley in the process of pulling it off the shaft.
Well, the replacement pulley I received has a keyway in it in addition to a set screw. The shaft is hollow, otherwise I'd gladly cut a keyway into it as well.
My question: Is it OK to use the pulley as-is with no key and just the set screw mounted on the shaft? Or will the keyway compromise the hold the pulley has on the shaft and lead to it wandering while it spins?
I should also note: the reason I wound up destroying the original pulley is because it apparently drifted and dug itself onto the shaft. There's a witness groove going along the side of the shaft where the set screw dragged and dug into it.
Keyway pulley on smooth shaft?
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docricketts
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Maybe drill it and put a cotter pin through it?
The sickness is spreading:
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Shopsmith attachments: 2 Jig Saws, Bandsaw, Jointer, Planer. Shaper tooling, many adapters, arbors, etc.
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Mark V greenie 1954
Mark V goldie 1962 (I think)
Mark V grey 1978
Shopsmith attachments: 2 Jig Saws, Bandsaw, Jointer, Planer. Shaper tooling, many adapters, arbors, etc.
50s vintage Craftsman table saw
50s vintage Craftsman band saw
I found that I had to grind a flat on any round shaft/bit or drill a small depth hole in the shaft for the set screw to hold if no key and keyway is present. Of course, I use Loctite on everything these days.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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docricketts
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Loctite thread lock, I assume? Even on a non-threaded shaft?
Fortunately, the shaft already has a flat spot, so not concerned about that. Just concerned the channel cut into the bore on the pulley may weaken it if there's no key inserted into it.
Regarding the cotter pin - you mean to drill a hole through the shaft to fasten it? That may work, but I'm a bit reluctant to modify the shaft at this point. Definitely worth considering, though.
Fortunately, the shaft already has a flat spot, so not concerned about that. Just concerned the channel cut into the bore on the pulley may weaken it if there's no key inserted into it.
Regarding the cotter pin - you mean to drill a hole through the shaft to fasten it? That may work, but I'm a bit reluctant to modify the shaft at this point. Definitely worth considering, though.
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ChrisNeilan
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I would doubt a cotter pin would work, and may make the situation worse. Cotter pins are designed to keep a nut from backing off, not to hold a pulley from spinning on a shaft. If it were to sheer it could wedge that pulley so tight you would have to cut it off. Yes, I've done that:mad:
Chris Neilan
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
If I didn't have advice from someone who knew what they were doing, here's what I would do.
Fill the key slot with JB Weld.
Slide it on the shaft and work it back and forth on the rounded portion of the shaft, not the flat.
Then set the pulley off to dry standing up with the weld at the bottom.
That may be the totally wrong thing to do, and if so, I'm sure somebody here will tell us, and why. Which is really cool cause I will learn a lesson without having to actually screw up.
Virtual screwups!! I may be on to something here.
Fill the key slot with JB Weld.
Slide it on the shaft and work it back and forth on the rounded portion of the shaft, not the flat.
Then set the pulley off to dry standing up with the weld at the bottom.
That may be the totally wrong thing to do, and if so, I'm sure somebody here will tell us, and why. Which is really cool cause I will learn a lesson without having to actually screw up.
Virtual screwups!! I may be on to something here.
Hello from Somerset in the beautiful Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands.
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"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
Mark 7, Mark VII, Mark V 520, Mark V 510 x 2, Mark V 500
SPT's - Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Jointer, strip sander, Oscillating Sander, Speed Increaser
SS Freestanding - Pro Planer, Scroll Saw, Overarm Pin Router, Power Station, DC3000 x 2
Made for SS - Incra iBox, Ring Master
"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
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ChrisNeilan
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Not a good idea. On the 10E/ER the headstock shaft where the pulleys mount is hollow with splines on the inside. When the quill is retracted the quill shaft goes all the way through it.wodnek wrote:Maybe drill it and put a cotter pin through it?
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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rjent
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I think that would work as well. I have used JB Weld on many things and it has never failed me.kablerj wrote:If I didn't have advice from someone who knew what they were doing, here's what I would do.
Fill the key slot with JB Weld.
Slide it on the shaft and work it back and forth on the rounded portion of the shaft, not the flat.
Then set the pulley off to dry standing up with the weld at the bottom.
That may be the totally wrong thing to do, and if so, I'm sure somebody here will tell us, and why. Which is really cool cause I will learn a lesson without having to actually screw up.
Virtual screwups!! I may be on to something here.
My only precaution if using Kablerj's suggestion, is make sure the set screw is "set" into the steel and not the KB Weld. It will hold better ...
JMHO
Dick
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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JPG
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rjent wrote:I think that would work as well. I have used JB Weld on many things and it has never failed me.
My only precaution if using Kablerj's suggestion, is make sure the set screw is "set" into the steel and not the KB Weld. It will hold better ...
JMHO
Dick
The 'KB' weld is on the pulley. The set screw 'sets' into the flat on the shaft.
IIWM, I would ignore the keyway in the pulley.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange