Thanks for the help and suggestions!
Dick
Moderator: admin
I had taken an ax and split the "log" in half, then was quarter sawing (in theory). I think Gene may have hit on the problem, I may have dulled the blade. I had bought two blades and put the other one on to do a project and I will revisit this issue as soon as that project is done. I would really like to make some veneer to use on some special boxes that I have planned, but I have to get the WRC to cut like everything else does first .....vmhaas wrote:Let me ask a silly question: is the log trying to spin on the table and binding the blade? That might explain your symptoms...
Regards,
Well sir, you are a master, and I stand corrected (with some qualificationcharlese wrote:Hmmm, no answer yet? Well I'll throw in a couple of guesses that haven't yet been mentioned.
Guess #1 - The wood really isn't Western Red Cedar. WRC is a softwood (conifer) that ranks very low on the hardness scale. It also turns grey upon aging. I've never heard of red color to the wood of WRC.
If the wood appears to have a redish tint. My guess is it could be Eastern Red Cedar, which is in the Juniper family. It's wood has a red heart and can be very hard.
Guess #2 - I apologize for this guess - It does not assume any lack of knowledge, but does come back to the "operator". Hey! It's been done before, even by some of our forum members.
Have you looked closely at the blade? Perhaps it has been turned inside out! If so, the points of the teeth will face up, rather than down. Once discovered, this is a bandsaw problem that is easy to fix.
A steel cutting blade(like a hack saw blade:D)?rjent wrote:Well sir, you are a master, and I stand corrected (with some qualification)
What we (ranchers, cattlemen, hunters, etc) call Western Red Cedar grows very prolific on our "Mesas" in New Mexico. I have done some research and I have found that Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is one of 13 junipers native to North America. It is similar to eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) but requires 2 years for seed maturity, compared to 1 year for its eastern relative. Other common names for the typical variety include Rocky Mountain redcedar, redcedar, western redcedar, river juniper, cedro rojo, and sabino. So I stand corrected. Apparently the Western Red Cedar of woodworking fame is a relatively large conifer that is like charlese said is a pretty soft wood. This "juniper/cedar" is harder than concrete, and it is why we use it for fence posts.
So, long story short, I guess I have been trying to cut a very hard juniper AKA Western Red Cedar, and that has been the problem.
So my hat is off to you sir, you nailed it!![]()
Now, is there a band saw blade that will cut this stuff? (I know I am hard headed, but it is a beautiful wood ....)
Dick
One of these oughta do the trick. Unless that wood is even harder than bearing steel, that is.rjent wrote:Well sir, you are a master, and I stand corrected (with some qualification)
What we (ranchers, cattlemen, hunters, etc) call Western Red Cedar grows very prolific on our "Mesas" in New Mexico. I have done some research and I have found that Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) is one of 13 junipers native to North America. It is similar to eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) but requires 2 years for seed maturity, compared to 1 year for its eastern relative. Other common names for the typical variety include Rocky Mountain redcedar, redcedar, western redcedar, river juniper, cedro rojo, and sabino. So I stand corrected. Apparently the Western Red Cedar of woodworking fame is a relatively large conifer that is like charlese said is a pretty soft wood. This "juniper/cedar" is harder than concrete, and it is why we use it for fence posts.
So, long story short, I guess I have been trying to cut a very hard juniper AKA Western Red Cedar, and that has been the problem.
So my hat is off to you sir, you nailed it!![]()
Now, is there a band saw blade that will cut this stuff? (I know I am hard headed, but it is a beautiful wood ....)
Dick
Well hell, that thar has more teeth (and more carbide for that matter) than JPG's mouth.BuckeyeDennis wrote:One of these oughta do the trick. Unless that wood is even harder than bearing steel, that is.
Edit: Highland Woodworking carries this blade in the right size for a Shopsmith -- 72"x1/2". The price is $103.