manual feed planer

[rjent]

Hey JPG, in my research on the forum, I found a series of threads that state you have a manual feed planer. Is that true? If so would you be willing to give a brief summary of the pros and cons? Do you still have it and use it.

I have found a manual feed mark mounted planer and I would like to have a little more info on it if you would be so kind.

Thanks in advance!

Dick

[wasatch]

I also have the manual feed planer that mounts to the MarkV. The only difference between the two (manual and motor feed) is that mine has a hand crank on the side where the motor mounts. If I wanted, I can purchase the motor and install it, but I have no reason to. This planer works fine with a manual feed. I also have the option to not crank as fast when I hear it planing an area that is more dense on the slab. Also, if the motor ever goes out (me), I doubt the planer will be much of an issue.
I have had no issues with the hand crank.
Pros: vary speed according to what you hear as the planer cuts, no expensive motor to go out, uses less electricity, allows you to get a little more exercise
Cons: (to some) you have to crank

[BuckeyeDennis]

One possible con:

When I plane long boards, I use myself as a human infeed & outfeed support. That is, I support the back end of the board when starting the feed. Then when the board is almost halfway through and thus balanced on the table, I walk around to the outfeed side and support that end. After a little practice doing this, I almost never get any significant snipe. And it's really no extra work, because you have to walk to-and-fro to load and unload your boards anyway.

This is much faster than setting up infeed and outfeed rollers, especially on a SS planer with its variable-height table. But it would take some mighty long arms to do it while also cranking the feed handle.

[rjent]

Thanks washach and Dennis. So really the only downside is you can't support the stock on the in and out feed (particularly out) because you are manually cranking the feed rollers. Got it.

I like the idea of being able to "control" the feed rate by feel and sound (more artistic?). One of my lines of thinking was that if the feed rate varied (because of the manual feed) does the cutter cut unevenly, or is the "flatness" pretty much set by the knives. I remember Nick Engler talking about "if you need just a little more taken off, don't add any more cut, just run it through again". So doesn't varying the "cuts per inch" effect the amount taken off.

I know, probably a dumb question, but I am asking it anyway ....

Dick

[rjent]

Another thing. How does the unit mount to the Mark? Does it lay on the main table, or does it attach like any other SPT. I can't tell from the pictures how it mounts ...

Dick

[wodnek]

It clamps to the main tubes.

[JPG]

Sorry to be late arriving at this party.

I have not used mine for long boards, but if I do, some extra support would be used. Unless taking very deep cuts, I think they do not need constant adjustment.

Mine has the soft feed rollers and that contributes to snipe. I have a roller 'upgrade' but have not yet installed it. I find a slight pull up at entry, and the same at exit minimizes that snipe. It does not require much upward force. That maintains the compression of the feed rollers before/after the second is in effect.

It sits on the left side of the headstock* rests on the way tubes clamped to them from below and is driven by the upper auxiliary drive hub. This means the infeed side is from the back and the reason for the safety switch on the infeed side.

* The Mark 7 varies from that. It mounts on the quill side, and is driven by the quill(in reverse). The infeed safety switch is not used with the Mark 7 unless the feed is motor driven(the same 'box' is used for both manual and motor driven feed, but the manual one does not contain the 'motor control circuitry'). Since the Mark 7 requires rebooting if the power is 'turned off' the feed motor version requires a separate power source and the Mark 7 is NOT plugged into the 'control box'.

The shopsmith mount has an aluminum table that has a stainless steel top surface instead of the CI one on the stand mount(pro planer).

I have obtained a 1 3/4 hp motor and someday will build a stand. That allows for faster rpm, but that would be unnecessary with the Mark 7.

I am pleased with mine.

[rjent]

[quote="JPG"]Sorry to be late arriving at this party.

I have not used mine for long boards, but if I do, some extra support would be used. Unless taking very deep cuts, I think they do not need constant adjustment.

Mine has the soft feed rollers and that contributes to snipe. I have a roller 'upgrade' but have not yet installed it. I find a slight pull up at entry, and the same at exit minimizes that snipe. It does not require much upward force. That maintains the compression of the feed rollers before/after the second is in effect.

It sits on the left side of the headstock* rests on the way tubes clamped to them from below and is driven by the upper auxiliary drive hub. This means the infeed side is from the back and the reason for the safety switch on the infeed side.

* The Mark 7 varies from that. It mounts on the quill side, and is driven by the quill(in reverse). The infeed safety switch is not used with the Mark 7 unless the feed is motor driven(the same 'box' is used for both manual and motor driven feed, but the manual one does not contain the 'motor control circuitry'). Since the Mark 7 requires rebooting if the power is 'turned off' the feed motor version requires a separate power source and the Mark 7 is NOT plugged into the 'control box'.

The shopsmith mount has an aluminum table that has a stainless steel top surface instead of the CI one on the stand mount(pro planer).

I have obtained a 1 3/4 hp motor and someday will build a stand. That allows for faster rpm, but that would be unnecessary with the Mark 7.

I am pleased with mine.]

OK, thanks JPG, that is what I needed. From what you Dennis washash, and wodnek has said, I think I will go get this one. I like the idea of using the PP as the power source (for a lot of reasons) and I also like the idea of it being a mounted instead of the Pro Planer.

Thanks guys!

Dick

[forrestb]

then Nick's advice about 'just run it through again' might be valid. BUT

if you have the roller upgrade (infeed roller is metal) and you feed through twice at the same height setting you will wind up with a really nicely spaced series of grooves running across your work! Trust me, I have the upgrade and have done this:o

I, too, have the manual feed planer since back in the 1980s I couldn't justify the extra cost of the powered feed. (BTW, it will cost around $1000 to upgrade from manual to powered if you use SS)

Better to try and buy a used powered planer (working or not) and repair it - I think! I am sortof negotiating with an owner in my area now.

At my age I find that manually cranking the feed is beginning to affect my elbows - I start with the right hand and switch to the left when the piece is around 1/2 through - so at least my infirmity is balanced.

Forrest

edit: if you have a PowerPro, the "safety switch" on the infeed side is no longer useful IMHO since the power head has to be started from the PP control panel. This is the reason the PP is recommended to have the planer mounted on the right side, not the left. My personal 'shop' has been set up to mount on the left side since power and DC system is fixed. I still mount on the left side and have to remember to put the PP in FORWARD before feeding any lumber!

[JPG]

then Nick's advice about 'just run it through again' might be valid. BUT

if you have the roller upgrade (infeed roller is metal) and you feed through twice at the same height setting you will wind up with a really nicely spaced series of grooves running across your work! Trust me, I have the upgrade and have done this:o

I, too, have the manual feed planer since back in the 1980s I couldn't justify the extra cost of the powered feed. (BTW, it will cost around $1000 to upgrade from manual to powered if you use SS)

Better to try and buy a used powered planer (working or not) and repair it - I think! I am sortof negotiating with an owner in my area now.

At my age I find that manually cranking the feed is beginning to affect my elbows - I start with the right hand and switch to the left when the piece is around 1/2 through - so at least my infirmity is balanced.

Forrest

edit: if you have a PowerPro, the "safety switch" on the infeed side is no longer useful IMHO since the power head has to be started from the PP control panel. This is the reason the PP is recommended to have the planer mounted on the right side, not the left. My personal 'shop' has been set up to mount on the left side since power and DC system is fixed. I still mount on the left side and have to remember to put the PP in FORWARD before feeding any lumber!

It was Drew that touted the run it through again idea. Those fibers compressed the first pass will get nipped the second pass.



Will not the safety switch stop the feed?


The 'reason' the mounting position for the PP is to the right is that is the logical place for it. It was only mounted to the left because the older models only ran one direction. The safety switch was to allow rapid shut down from the infeed(back) side.

Upon 'reflection', as a safety switch(operated ONLY in an emergency) it still makes sense even with the Mark 7 plugged into it. It only supplies 120v however.

Yep 'then vs now', things change!:D


BTW one thing about the hand feed, it can be reversed if needed(removing workpiece after panic stop)! Gotta overcome the anti kickback pawls though!

Yes I know lowering the table is the 'easier' removal method.