Adjusting the planer?

[fitzhugh]

Can anyone help me with the basics of how to set up the planer? I've read the PTWWFE chapter but it doesn't get any more technical than discussing the speed settings - both headstock and feed rates. I have ordered the manual about a week ago but was told it would be a while and I'm all excited to use it now, of course.

I've sharpened the knives and set them properly using the metal gauge Shopsmith sells. I'm quite unclear on the other adjustments: the four flathead screwdriver type posts that seem to set the tension for the two feed rollers (mine has the metal roller, if that matters).

As it is now the intake side drive roller leaves impressions along one side. Other that that it left a wonderful surface on some very curly cherry. That, I have to say, was thrilling to see!

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

[JPG]

Can anyone help me with the basics of how to set up the planer? I've read the PTWWFE chapter but it doesn't get any more technical than discussing the speed settings - both headstock and feed rates. I have ordered the manual about a week ago but was told it would be a while and I'm all excited to use it now, of course.

I've sharpened the knives and set them properly using the metal gauge Shopsmith sells. I'm quite unclear on the other adjustments: the four flathead screwdriver type posts that seem to set the tension for the two feed rollers (mine has the metal roller, if that matters).

As it is now the intake side drive roller leaves impressions along one side. Other that that it left a wonderful surface on some very curly cherry. That, I have to say, was thrilling to see!

Thank you!
Fitzhugh

If the infeed roller leaves impressions on only one side, back off the tension for that side. If it then slips increase both sides until it no longer slips.

The tension should be just enough to allow feeding without slipping. As a rule of thumb(starting position) adjust the screws so the head(all 4) is flush with the casting surface.

[fitzhugh]

Thanks - I somehow thought there was more to those mechanisms than that. That's what I get for not having enough light in the shop when messing around in the evening. I'll remedy that soon.

Now I'm seeing there is a little bit of play in the table itself - it can rock slightly if you push on two of the corners that are diagonally opposite each other but not the other two. It is hard to measure without another pair of hands but it is perhaps 1/16th - could be half or less of that but it is there. Without taking it apart I can't see a way to adjust the table. There are nuts on the bottom of the shafts that have the chain cogs on them and which raise the table, but I don't see a way to adjust the table for parallel to the cutting head. Am I missing it or is it not there?

Thanks

[BuckeyeDennis]

Thanks - I somehow thought there was more to those mechanisms than that. That's what I get for not having enough light in the shop when messing around in the evening. I'll remedy that soon.

Now I'm seeing there is a little bit of play in the table itself - it can rock slightly if you push on two of the corners that are diagonally opposite each other but not the other two. It is hard to measure without another pair of hands but it is perhaps 1/16th - could be half or less of that but it is there. Without taking it apart I can't see a way to adjust the table. There are nuts on the bottom of the shafts that have the chain cogs on them and which raise the table, but I don't see a way to adjust the table for parallel to the cutting head. Am I missing it or is it not there?

Thanks

To align the table to the cutter head, you have to adjust how the four elevator-screw sprockets engage the drive chain. If memory serves, one tooth equates to 0.004" of vertical travel. So theoretically, you can fine-tune to within +/- 0.002" at each screw. There's a procedure for it in the manual. It's a PITA the first time you do it. But using a dial indicator, it's not a big deal after you get the hang of it.

As for all the routine adjustments, this Sawdust Session covers them pretty thoroughly.

[JPG]

If it 'rocks', I would be suspicious of play in the table/jack screw connecting hardware. Normal operation would tend to keep the table at the 'bottom' of that play(equal pressure from the feed rolls).

Be aware it does not take much 'mis-syncronization' of the posts to get things jammed. I assume that leads to the play problem(or breakage if worse).

Always keep the jackscrew threads cleared of debris.




If you do adjust the sprockets, do tell us how much fun it was.

P.S. Actually you adjust the table height to the tie rods and assume they be parallel to the cutter head.

16 tooth sprocket on 16 pitch screw does indeed = 0.004 per tooth.(.00390625)

[fitzhugh]

AH, you guys are great!

I won't mess with the table alignment until the manual arrives but it is a big relief to know that everything is adjustable and serviceable - no surprise since it is a shopsmith - but a relief nonetheless.

The rocking comes from a little play along the shaft. The whole threaded shaft and sprocket and all is able to move up and down just a smidgen, or to be more precise, a quarter of a tad. When I move it I see the shaft and all attached move in relation to the cross bars that go from the bottom of the shaft to the other shaft on the same end. It looks like it is free to move vertically in the top cross bar but is not supposed to be free to move vertically in the bottom cross bar. Perhaps I can tighten it or add a shim washer - again, I'll wait for the manual to arrive unless you have a suggestion.

I had only found a different episode on using the planer, not adjusting it. I'm watching the suggested episode as I type. Thank you! Good, now he's explaining the roller pressure adjusting screws. He REALLY needs to lubricate the height adjust crank. SQUEEEEEK!


I'd held off on trying the planer because it was a bit intimidating and I guess I was worried it was going to end up a dud. It was an extra - I was after the bandsaw - and the seller had used it to plane a bunch of douglas fir. He left it jammed full of shavings impacted in all the crevices.

There is every sign that last owner never did any adjusting or maintenance on anything. I was worried when I saw the state of his basement shop - mine is often buried in the mess from a bunch of projects but his very large open first floor/basement had whole sections blocked off with stuff not moved in decades, with machines peaking out. Luckily I think he didn't own it that long and it seems the owner before him took very good care of the machines. Happily the planer seems fine, just needs a normal work over.

Time to order a dial caliper as well.

[JPG]

AH, you guys are great!

I won't mess with the table alignment until the manual arrives but it is a big relief to know that everything is adjustable and serviceable - no surprise since it is a shopsmith - but a relief nonetheless.

The rocking comes from a little play along the shaft. The whole threaded shaft and sprocket and all is able to move up and down just a smidgen, or to be more precise, a quarter of a tad. When I move it I see the shaft and all attached move in relation to the cross bars that go from the bottom of the shaft to the other shaft on the same end. It looks like it is free to move vertically in the top cross bar but is not supposed to be free to move vertically in the bottom cross bar. Perhaps I can tighten it or add a shim washer - again, I'll wait for the manual to arrive unless you have a suggestion.

I had only found a different episode on using the planer, not adjusting it. I'm watching the suggested episode as I type. Thank you! Good, now he's explaining the roller pressure adjusting screws. He REALLY needs to lubricate the height adjust crank. SQUEEEEEK!


I'd held off on trying the planer because it was a bit intimidating and I guess I was worried it was going to end up a dud. It was an extra - I was after the bandsaw - and the seller had used it to plane a bunch of douglas fir. He left it jammed full of shavings impacted in all the crevices.

There is every sign that last owner never did any adjusting or maintenance on anything. I was worried when I saw the state of his basement shop - mine is often buried in the mess from a bunch of projects but his very large open first floor/basement had whole sections blocked off with stuff not moved in decades, with machines peaking out. Luckily I think he didn't own it that long and it seems the owner before him took very good care of the machines. Happily the planer seems fine, just needs a normal work over.

Time to order a dial caliper as well.

Why?????????????

It will lead to great frustration and hand wringing!!

[fitzhugh]

Because I'll save on haircuts when I've pulled all mine out, of course!

Called the mothership. It will be another week or two until they can ship the manual. Didn't occur to me to ask if they had any advice in the mean time regarding the play in the table and now they're closed until Monday. I guess the first thing I should do is plane something few times at the same setting and measure the thickness on each side. It sure helps to start these projects when the wife is not home, especially not home and gone to bed (bedroom on other side of wall nearest shopsmith).

[fitzhugh]

OK, so I see in the video how he used a simple block of wood. I think it was wood. He called it a 1-2-3 block, which would be odd in wood, except this is for woodworking not metalwork and I can't imagine it matters if the block expands and contracts like crazy with the weather. I'll just grab a random chunk of scrap to use as a go/no-go gauge thingy and keep my hair (for now - I'll find another reason to buy a dial indicator. It's a tool, after all)

[JPG]

OK, so I see in the video how he used a simple block of wood. I think it was wood. He called it a 1-2-3 block, which would be odd in wood, except this is for woodworking not metalwork and I can't imagine it matters if the block expands and contracts like crazy with the weather. I'll just grab a random chunk of scrap to use as a go/no-go gauge thingy and keep my hair (for now - I'll find another reason to buy a dial indicator. It's a tool, after all)

I have used a short piece of 1/2" mdf with a dab of dried paint near the end. "GO" = clears unpainted end, "NOGO" = interferes with paint 'dab'. Crude fer sure, but works!;)