ShopSmith 510

sawmill · Post by **sawmill** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:44 pm

What is the difference between a model 510 and a 520 shopsmith. I am going to look at one tomorrow and would like to know a little bit about it before I go. The owner said it is just a few years old and he bought it new. It has all of the standard things that goes with it and a lot of extras for using in the lathe setup. He has a medical problem and cannot be around sawdust any more that is why he is selling it. He wants 1200.00 for it. Is this a good deal or not. Thanks

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:13 pm

sawmill wrote:What is the difference between a model 510 and a 520 shopsmith. I am going to look at one tomorrow and would like to know a little bit about it before I go. The owner said it is just a few years old and he bought it new. It has all of the standard things that goes with it and a lot of extras for using in the lathe setup. He has a medical problem and cannot be around sawdust any more that is why he is selling it. He wants 1200.00 for it. Is this a good deal or not. Thanks

Hi sawmill, as a brand new one with zero SPT's costs $3199 (see: http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/purchaseNB.htm ), I wood say that the price is nice. Except of course, it depends on 1) what it comes with, 2) the condition it is in, and 3) whether or not you can get a comparable one for less. I have read on this forum where a SS (not a model 510) has been picked up for as little as $100. Of course the condition and age dictates the price. If that one is in excellent condition, and comes with any of the SPT's, and since it is within driving distance for you (you will knot have shipping costs, other then your gas), I wood say that you should buy it! Happy hunting.

edit-Sorry, I forgot to address the difference betwen a 510 and a 520. You can see the differences on the link above. Both models are really the same unit. The difference is the fence and rail systems. Many of us continue to use the 510 system, while 520 users swear by them.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 10:23 pm

sawmill; You asked:

What is the difference between a model 510 and a 520 shopsmith?

It seems the best way to answer that is to refer you to a description of the 510 to 520 upgrade kit. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/510toprofence.htm

You go on to say: He wants 1200.00 for it. Is this a good deal or not?

If it is in good condition and it comes with a lot of accessories, as you say, I believe $1200 is not a bad price. While that price might not be considered a "big steal" - it is not unreasonable.

The cost of a new Mark 5 Model 510 (555924) is more than twice that price. The 520 is $500 more.
http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/purchaseNB.htm

You can down load the catalog to get new unit prices on all the accessories. See the download option in the center of the page.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/index.htm

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jun 07, 2008 2:22 am

Sawmill - Dusty has given you the links to the part difference between a 510 and a 520. Let me tell you what these parts will get you. I drive a 510 and am not unbiased, but the difference between the two models, in terms of quality of or accuracy of project output is nill.

The 520 has different table rails and a wider and improved fence. It (the fence) is wider - has additional slots for mounting feather boards and other accessories - has a different locking system. The 510 fence is also a very good fence. It locks on both the front and back, as does the 520 fence. The 510 fence is very stable, just like the 520. The 510 fence must be lifted off of the table by first lifting the rear part up. The 520 can be picked straight up. There is really no saw-ability difference between the two however the 520s is easier to adjust if it ever gets out of line.

In my opinion, if the 510 is in excellent working condition, you can't go wrong at that price. Check to see if the headstock runs smoothly and changes speeds smoothly all the way from the "slow" setting to the "high" setting. You wont hurt a thing by running it up to fast. There may be a small jump in the speed dial as it passes the letter R. This is normal as is a small amount of wobble in the speed dial as you change speeds. Crank the main table up and down to see if it works smoothly. Does the machine have casters and do they work. They should two upward stops and one to drop down. Does the switch fee firm? Does the red switch knob pull out (lock) and re-insert easily?

Also check to see if the speed dial turns and stops as it shows the "slow" reading. This means the dial is adjusted properly. If it stops at some other place - there needs to be some adjustment. Probably not part replacement, if other than that, it runs smoothly.

Check out the overall condition and cleanliness of the machine. Are there any signs of rust or corrosion?

Check to see if the quill extends fully and locks in any position. Does the distance setting lock and work? Also stand the machine up to the drill press position, level the table and crank it in and out. While you're looking at the quill, check for excessive play of the shaft.

Look for any table inserts. He may have one with a round hole for drilling and sanding.