Best method to cut a steep angle?

[beeg]

Confused dumb question here, which isn't a dumb questions, since it's being asked.

Are we talking about a cut 22.5° off of 90°= 67.5°? OR a cut 67.5 off of 90° = 22.5°?

[JPG]

90 - 67.5 = 22.5

Think isosceles triangle with a 90 degree and two 45 degree angles.

The miter joint for the 90 is 45.

The miter joint for the two 45's are 22.5.

[benush26]

Hi beeg,

This is a rough drawing sized for a 9.5 by 5 foot flag (will also fit an 9 by 5 if that is the size used but a bit big), but you can see the miters. Hope that clears up the 45 and 22 1/2 miters and where they fit

flag case rough.jpg (85.15 KiB) Viewed 5727 times

Be well,
Ben

[dusty]

Ben, I do not believe I would cut the angles at all. I would use the disk sander on the Mark v and sand the angles with the aid of the v120.

Hard on sanding disks but easy on me. You might want to rough cut the angles to save wear and tear but I would not.

Even doing it this way, set up is critical. The Main Table needs to be absolutely square with the face of the sanding disk. I believe you can rely on the v120 to give you the proper angle.

Lock the v120 in the miter track, clamp the work piece to the face of the v120 and use the quill to advance the sanding disk into the work piece.

[JPG]

An earlier question was glossed over earlier.(Sorry Beeg )

We be concentrating on the shallow angle and ignoring the complimentary one.

If the miter gauge is set to 67.5 and the workpiece registered to the gauge with the 'inside' surface, the resultant angle relative to the outer surface is 22.5. Since the sides are flat boards that should work.

The 12" disk will handle 4" boards.


Same with the band saw!

Now about setting the miter gauge to 67.5 . . . . . A wedge still is needed.

P.S. How big is that 'post' flag?

[jepello]

Thanks for all the advice! You Guys are Great!

But as they say, "Be careful what you ask for, you just may get it".

Obviously there is not a single "best" solution, but there are several really good ideas. At least I now know that I'm not completely out in left field as I had at least considered variations of most of the suggested solutions.

Yes JPG, it's a big flag. Unfurled - roughly 9'x17'; Folded - 24.5" sides 34.5" bottom, roughly 3" thick.

Still not sure exactly how I'll do it but will probably try a couple methods on scrap to see what works out best for me.

I really liked the Tommy Macdonald video, it gave me several good ideas. Planning to build a jig similar to his (since I don't have a Tenon Master)and tilt the table as BD suggested to rough cut the angles, then clean up on either the disc or belt sander. If that doesn't work out then I'll probably try making a dedicated 22.5 (or is it 67.5 ) jig that can be used on either the table or band saw.

I'll let y'all know how it all works out.

________________

[westevenssr]

I may come across as dumb here to some of you, but when I first bought my Shopsmith 40 years ago after watching a demo at the mall, I went to Dayton Ohio and took a week long class on using the machine. The instructor was demonstrating several cuts that he felt were difficult and possibly unsafe to set up using long bords. After checking that his supervisor wasn't around he pulled out a hand saw and made a preliminary cut before the finish cuts on the Shopsmith. To this day I use a hand saw, a radial arm saw, or a miter box with a hand miter saw in it. If nothing else make a wood miter box to cut the joint. It will be very close, then use a shooting board and plane, or the disk sander to finish it the final angle and size. I see very little comments so far in using hand tools rather than strictly power tools in the shop.

[JPG]

I may come across as dumb here to some of you, but when I first bought my Shopsmith 40 years ago after watching a demo at the mall, I went to Dayton Ohio and took a week long class on using the machine. The instructor was demonstrating several cuts that he felt were difficult and possibly unsafe to set up using long bords. After checking that his supervisor wasn't around he pulled out a hand saw and made a preliminary cut before the finish cuts on the Shopsmith. To this day I use a hand saw, a radial arm saw, or a miter box with a hand miter saw in it. If nothing else make a wood miter box to cut the joint. It will be very close, then use a shooting board and plane, or the disk sander to finish it the final angle and size. I see very little comments so far in using hand tools rather than strictly power tools in the shop.

Dumb? NO! Intelligent? YES! Rational? YES! Logical? YES! Objective? YES!

[jepello]

I may come across as dumb here to some of you, but when I first bought my Shopsmith 40 years ago after watching a demo at the mall, I went to Dayton Ohio and took a week long class on using the machine. The instructor was demonstrating several cuts that he felt were difficult and possibly unsafe to set up using long bords. After checking that his supervisor wasn't around he pulled out a hand saw and made a preliminary cut before the finish cuts on the Shopsmith. To this day I use a hand saw, a radial arm saw, or a miter box with a hand miter saw in it. If nothing else make a wood miter box to cut the joint. It will be very close, then use a shooting board and plane, or the disk sander to finish it the final angle and size. I see very little comments so far in using hand tools rather than strictly power tools in the shop.

Hand tools are definately NOT out of the question, I use them often.
My first instinct was to grab the old miter box with Disston miter saw that my Dad gave me (still love that thing). But again, can't cut that steep of an angle with it.

[wa2crk]

Y'all can use a fixture like this

The attachment saddle fixture.jpg is no longer available

and you get a result like this

walnut flag case.jpg (80.48 KiB) Viewed 5638 times

Bill V