Best method to cut a steep angle?

[wa2crk]

Sorry the fixture did not load to the original post

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I think I will get the hang of this format in about a tear I am not one who embraces change
Bill V

[benush26]

Ben, I do not believe I would cut the angles at all. I would use the disk sander on the Mark v and sand the angles with the aid of the v120.

Hard on sanding disks but easy on me. You might want to rough cut the angles to save wear and tear but I would not.

Even doing it this way, set up is critical. The Main Table needs to be absolutely square with the face of the sanding disk. I believe you can rely on the v120 to give you the proper angle.

Lock the v120 in the miter track, clamp the work piece to the face of the v120 and use the quill to advance the sanding disk into the work piece.

That got me wondering about glue joints. Would there be a difference on a miter joint if it was sanded or cut? With the 22.5 pieces, the glue joint can be a bit tricky; opening up so much grain. Would a sanded surface offer a better or worse surface to accept glue?

Presume that each surface is well cleaned, tack cloth, etc..

Anyone know or have a source? Frankly, if the sanded surface was a better surface, I would be willing to change my construction methods for flag cases.

Be well,
Ben

[edflorence]

Ben, I do not believe I would cut the angles at all. I would use the disk sander on the Mark v and sand the angles with the aid of the v120.

Hard on sanding disks but easy on me. You might want to rough cut the angles to save wear and tear but I would not.

Even doing it this way, set up is critical. The Main Table needs to be absolutely square with the face of the sanding disk. I believe you can rely on the v120 to give you the proper angle.

Lock the v120 in the miter track, clamp the work piece to the face of the v120 and use the quill to advance the sanding disk into the work piece.

That got me wondering about glue joints. Would there be a difference on a miter joint if it was sanded or cut? With the 22.5 pieces, the glue joint can be a bit tricky; opening up so much grain. Would a sanded surface offer a better or worse surface to accept glue?

Presume that each surface is well cleaned, tack cloth, etc..

Anyone know or have a source? Frankly, if the sanded surface was a better surface, I would be willing to change my construction methods for flag cases.

Be well,
Ben

Here is one answer/opinion: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techn ... h-or-rough

Looks like they recommend "smooth" vs "rough", as long as "burnished" is not taken for smooth. Sanding to 200 seems to count as "smooth."

[dusty]

Thanks for that link. I am going to interpret. I would suggest that this means that a jointed edge is ready for glue up and need not be sanded. I would think the same for a planed surface (like a surface about to receive a veneer).

[JPG]

Thanks for that link. I am going to interpret. I would suggest that this means that a jointed edge is ready for glue up and need not be sanded. I would think the same for a planed surface (like a surface about to receive a veneer).

"Two-hundred grit or higher sanding to get flat or tight-fitting joints works well."

But not to the point of 'burnishing'.

Burnishing is a deformation of the surface = think polishing. If the wood shines, it is burnished.

[benush26]

I have been asked to make a triangular case for a folded flag and may have accepted the task before completely thinking this through. If it were for a normal size flag it wouldn't be too much of a problem, but this is for a "Post" Flag (approx 10'x18'). The flag was flown over the military installation that I work on and was recently retired (replaced). It's going to be presented to the deputy to the commanding general when he retires at the end of the month, he will then turn around and donate it to the post museum where it will be put on display, so I need to do a good job.
I'm using oak 1 x 4. The top 45 degree angles are not a problem but I'm not sure of the best way to cut the 22.5 degree angles for the bottom corners.
I made a jig of sorts by cutting a 22.5 degree block on my miter saw and attached it to the SS miter gauge set at 45 degrees and screwed a piece of pine to it for a fence. I thought this would work but I cannot cut all the way through 4" stock. Thought I might cut as far as the blade will reach and finish the last inch or so with a handsaw. But now I'm thinking maybe I could use the same jig and make the cuts on my bandsaw instead. If I use the bandsaw will I need to adjust my angle to account for drift or should it be ok on a relatively short cut?
Or is there a better way to make this cut that escapes me? What would you do?

Before I forget, you might want to consider what type of glass you will use. When I can afford it I use a "conservator" framing type glass. It has UV protection to protect the flag and some styles have a matte finish which allows the flag to shine through very well, with little reflection from outside lights. To be honest it can add significant costs to the finished piece, especially if you are donating all materials.

Be well,
Ben

[benush26]

Here is one answer/opinion: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techn ... h-or-rough

Looks like they recommend "smooth" vs "rough", as long as "burnished" is not taken for smooth. Sanding to 200 seems to count as "smooth."

Thanks for the reference. The comments afterward were also very enlightening.
So in the future, maybe I should worry less (or not at all) about how much end grain is exposed to be cut and glued?

Be well,
Ben

[jepello]

I have been asked to make a triangular case for a folded flag and may have accepted the task before completely thinking this through. If it were for a normal size flag it wouldn't be too much of a problem, but this is for a "Post" Flag (approx 10'x18'). The flag was flown over the military installation that I work on and was recently retired (replaced). It's going to be presented to the deputy to the commanding general when he retires at the end of the month, he will then turn around and donate it to the post museum where it will be put on display, so I need to do a good job.
I'm using oak 1 x 4. The top 45 degree angles are not a problem but I'm not sure of the best way to cut the 22.5 degree angles for the bottom corners.
I made a jig of sorts by cutting a 22.5 degree block on my miter saw and attached it to the SS miter gauge set at 45 degrees and screwed a piece of pine to it for a fence. I thought this would work but I cannot cut all the way through 4" stock. Thought I might cut as far as the blade will reach and finish the last inch or so with a handsaw. But now I'm thinking maybe I could use the same jig and make the cuts on my bandsaw instead. If I use the bandsaw will I need to adjust my angle to account for drift or should it be ok on a relatively short cut?
Or is there a better way to make this cut that escapes me? What would you do?

Before I forget, you might want to consider what type of glass you will use. When I can afford it I use a "conservator" framing type glass. It has UV protection to protect the flag and some styles have a matte finish which allows the flag to shine through very well, with little reflection from outside lights. To be honest it can add significant costs to the finished piece, especially if you are donating all materials.

Be well,
Ben

[jepello]

No sure what happened to my reply to Ben's comment?

I had already spoken with the museum curator about glass, not only did he tell me where to get it (museum glass), he offered to pay for it with museum funds! Woo Hoo! It will cost close to $100.

[jepello]

Mission Accomplished!!!
Thanks guys for all the tips. I couldn't have done it without you. Well, ok, I could and would have but with much more frustration.
Does the jig look familiar Bill? I also made a sled for cutting the splines.

flagcase1.jpg (35.27 KiB) Viewed 6429 times

Used white oak with special walnut stain, walnut for the splines. The museum glass was $85.

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flagcase3.jpg (101.06 KiB) Viewed 6429 times

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Customer is very satisfied. They were going to refold the flag and try to minimize the wrinkles. Presentation is tomorrow and she'll be in the museum next week.

Thanks again. This forum is a great resource!