As a new owner of the SS/Kreg band saw fence, I was keen to be able to resaw some 5" oak using an accurate correction of 5/8" blade lead with a fence adjustment. Doug Reid did a nice video of the general method using a simple adjustment of the SS style fence:
The SS/Kreg adjustments are different than the SS fence model and are touchy when following their blade lead correction instructions. I found during repeated attempts at fence adjustments, when tightening the 2 bolts fixing the Adapter Bracket to the Clamp Block, I caused a clockwise movement of the fence and loss of the desired blade lead correction.
Tightening these 2 bolts causes the fence to rotate clockwise & out of good adjustment
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The simple change in my method of tightening the 2 bolts, involved the temporary addition of a 1/2" hex nut in the T nut slot (to prevent damage to the fence top T slot edges when applying a a small amount of pressure via a C clamp preventing that clockwise movement.
Placing a 1/2" hex nut or a short piece of 3/8" high bar stock in the top T track fence extrusion should protect the track from C clamp damage.
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Has anyone followed another method that works for them to accomplish this fence adjustment simply?
Art ve9bp
Mk 7 PowerPro;bandsaw, planer, jointer, belt sander, DC3300; 330 sq ft shop
It appears to me as though you have something other than a resaw blade installed. I'd bet that if you installed a 4TPI Hooked Tooth Blade (521987) that your lead problem would disappear.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
The short answer is to set the fence to the low fence configuration (on its side) when adjusting for blade drift. The long explanation is as follows:
The Kreg band saw fence can be used in two configurations: high and low. In its high configuration, as you have it set up in the above photos, the fence is used for resawing. In its low fence configuration, the fence is used to saw thin, narrow stock. You only need to switch from the high fence to the low fence when you are attempting a narrow cut and the tall fence interferes with the blade guides.
When the fence is in the tall fence configuration, the fence sits on thin strip of an anti friction/glide material. Accordingly, the fence will readily glide as you tighten the adjustment bolts to set the drift.
Accordingly, consider setting the fence to the low fence configuration when adjusting for blade drift. In the low fence configuration, you have a large, wide bearing surface to clamp and no glide material to move the fence around. Once your drift is set, you can flip the fence up to its tall configuration if you are resawing.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Completely off topic, but I love how the C-clamp has ADJUSTABLE cast into it. Makes me wonder how many potential C-clamp purchasers this would effect? Is there such a thing as a non-adjustable clamp?
