JPG wrote:With multiple identical 'windows' with the 'place inline' button, confusion is self starting.
That is why I do them one at a time, that way I only get one 'window'. (I am using the subsilver style, your results may vary)
JPG wrote:I guess I be spoiled with the previous way(add pix[all at once], then add comments).
It will all work out with more 'practice'.
Yes, the old editor was a bit more 'user friendly'.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Today I moved the mounting brackets that hold the fence in closer to the middle line of the clamp. Testing shows that about takes care of the flexing issue I was seeing.
IMG_6386sc.jpg (518.63 KiB) Viewed 1580 times
While I was at it I swapped out the slot head screws for a 3/16" Allen head, no reason to have to take out a pile of tools when working with this jig.
IMG_6384sc.jpg (465.72 KiB) Viewed 1580 times
I went with the 3/16" because the Rockler hardware is already using that size for their hardware.
IMG_6385sc.jpg (478.76 KiB) Viewed 1580 times
While I might make a couple more tweaks this project is about done. The prototype is now the finished project in all but cosmetic aspects.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
It looks great, Ed. I can see one of those in my future.
Couple questions:
1) The topside hardware looks first-rate. Do the drawer-slide "ways" compromise the rigidity and repeatability? If not, exactly what slide hardware did you use?
2) I like the T-slot mounting system for the base. But as I'm presently PowerPro-less (try saying that three times, fast ), I'd probably adapt the jig to mount on my old-style overarm pin router. You have one of those too, so what factored into the decision to design the jig for the 520 table instead?
The drawer slides I picked up at Menards, they were about $20 and do not have the suck in feature that the most expensive ones do. I forget if they are 100 or 150 pound ones, picked them up a while back when I first started planning this. By using 18" full depth hardware and limiting the movement to about 6" makes them pretty good at what they do. I have not measured anything but I don't expect to be within .001" or the like but a lot less then say a 1/32".
The reason that I only did this on the 520 platform is because I don't have access right now for the over head router.... sorry to say. I expect it will work they as well but I might need to look at a way of attaching it to that table. I don't expect that to be a big effort. In fact I really expect to work at it there rather then the on the 520. The router table will do the in and out motion just like the 520 does, the router will still be faster then the shopsmith's 10K and having a locking arm for depth of cut will be even better then what the 520 has. Having said that I can assure you it will work on the old over head router.
Ed
BuckeyeDennis wrote:It looks great, Ed. I can see one of those in my future.
Couple questions:
1) The topside hardware looks first-rate. Do the drawer-slide "ways" compromise the rigidity and repeatability? If not, exactly what slide hardware did you use?
2) I like the T-slot mounting system for the base. But as I'm presently PowerPro-less (try saying that three times, fast ), I'd probably adapt the jig to mount on my old-style overarm pin router. You have one of those too, so what factored into the decision to design the jig for the 520 table instead?
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
), I'd probably adapt the jig to mount on my old-style overarm pin router. You have one of those too, so what factored into the decision to design the jig for the 520 table instead?
