Sharp things -- blades blades blades

[paulrussell]

As I get more serious about my woodworking I am curious about blades for the various SS tools I use including tablesaw, bandsaw, and scrollsaw.

As far as the tablesaw function, I'm looking for recomendations on both dado blades, and the Forrest blades - which would be best for a 1 3/4 horse PowerPro?

Bandsaw -- I'm starting to do some resawing, and also everyday smaller blade work, and have notices lots of brand names bandied about.

Scroll saw: Right now I have a bunch of Craftsman blades I bought on closeout a few years back. I don't know if there is a whole lotta difference in scroll blades, but worth askin' anyway.

And -- anything else I should be asking? Hmm. WoodworkerII blades -- which arbor? Do I need the stabilizer? I'm sure I'm missing a lot of needed info and questions, but perhaps a starting point.

[S Brian]

Unless money is no object, I feel that either the Freud 10" LU84 full kerf 50 tooth combination blade or their new 10" full kerf 40 tooth Premier Fusion blades are hard to beat. Either can handle your cross cuts or rips in 1.5" thick hardwood. I recently bought my Premier Fusion for $75 on Amazon.

[reible]

You are going to get a lot of advice here.

Here is what mine is.

I don't like cheap blades and better blades get better results. I hate sanding and I've found that I do little of that anymore due to the blades I use.

I like the infinity table saw blades, check out:

http://www.infinitytools.com


What ever you do about brands most shops need 3 basic blades.

Glue-line rip blade thin kerf

A good crosscut blade

and

A good comb blade.

I don't know how anyone can work with out a dado blade, again better blades better cuts so expect to spend big bucks here.

From there I would look at a good laminate/multi material blade.

If you get into box joints I'd look at the selections of specialized blades that are now on the market.

By now you will have spent your budget and then some but if you look for sales it makes it a little less painful.

Bandsaw blades I normally get from two sources. Resaw blades from Highland Woodworking, the go to the woodslicer. They also have a blade for cutting wet wood that makes a big difference if you work with wet wood, think turning.

The other blades I buy are Wolf brand. I've had a bandsaw since the early 1970's and wasted money on other brands, I don't do that anymore. I did happen to notice that Infinity now sells a resaw blade but the size 70-1/2" perhaps with in range for the shopsmith saw but I've never tried it.

Jig/scroll blades I've not gotten into as much. Olson makes a pgt that seems to do what I want when I want to do it and so I've just gone with them as they are easy to find. I think I should get more in to the subject but when they started with the precision ground teeth the playing field leveled out.

In all cases it pays to read up on what you want to do and select the proper blades for the job. Bandsaw blades have a lot to pick from, more then I care to keep in stock so I compromise mostly on those type blades. It would be easy to keep 10 or 12 blades on your most wanted list....

All of this has gone with out the discussions about dado blades, wobble/stacked/8"/6" bat wings and all of that good stuff that will also require before your selections.

So good luck with all of this.

Ed

[paulrussell]

Much to think about. I should add that I currently have the SS rip, cross, and combo set.

[lerbi]

Completely agree with Reible. Quality blades are worth the price. If not in your current budget, wait until you can. Cheap blades equal inferior results. I use Forrest blades for my table saw and, chop saw, but there are others. I use a Forrest blade set for finger joints. For the bandsaw, the Woodslicer is great for re sawing and Olsen for other applications. Nothing wrong with ShopSmith blades but they are just buying, rebranding and marking up blades they buy from an outside vendor,

[benush26]

Except for the scroll saw blades, I have similar tastes to Ed.

Scroll saw I went from Olson, to Flying Dutchman and now find that I like Pegasus for quality of cut and longevity. They are more expensive, however using fewer blades makes up for that cost difference.

The opinions of blades varies and you can find a multitude of great examples by many vendors. What I think might be a better course is first answer if you have a project and does it need a specific set of cuts? Is one of you blades needed for that project not up to the task? Figure that out, then go set a budget, buy the best you can with in that budget, allowing for a fudge factor from time to time.

Are you willing to sink nearly $500 into three really good blades? Can you spread the purchase of each over a time period without needing each? Need three good blades a fantastic dado set and laminate plywood cutter?? Find a friendly banker!

Do you or will you use the combo more either of the other two? Lots of need for high quality cross or miter cuts? Building a nice work bench so lots of high quality glue line cuts over long lengths? The job is often the deciding factor in what to buy, especially if you already have an acceptable blade for each operation.

In other words, what project or projects do have in mind? That might help decided what you buy and how much you are willing to shell out.

Lots of laminate cuts (I cut a lot of laminate to make auxiliary fences) could mean that you put that blade ahead of the standard three. They also wear out fast! Or at least the Trend brand that I buy for $50 each seem to need a sharpening MUCH faster than my cross cut. I use that blade only for laminate and plywood breakdown, never for verneer ply.

I had my mind made up to buy an Infinity dadonator until a friend wrote about his Freud adjustable. Great flat bottoms, no shims. Now I have to figure out if the time and effort saved by making adjustments at the saw offset the near perfect cuts of the Infinity. I'm also in want (versus need) of a new cross cut blade to replace my no longer sharpen able Amana. However the dado upgrade will come first.

So, once again, my advice (or two cents or shouting at the moon) is to pick a budget and a timetable for buying. Then begin the selection process.

Frankly unless you are planning to switch to 12" blades, I wouldn't put the PowerPro into the equation. That DVR motor can handle most anything you might want to throw at it.

Be well,
Ben

[paulrussell]

Again thanks for all the input. What I'm looking at is my "going forward strategy." At the moment I have no immediate need for blades other than what I have, and have no wish to throw out good blades in search of excellent.

In other words: What Ben said.

My current weakest link is my "unbranded Irwin dado set" which I hope to never use again, other than perhaps on MDF or similar. But at the moment I have no need for a new set. But come the day, I want to be educated enough to make a wise choice. Same with all the other types of blades. For example, until this thread, I'd never heard of the Infinity blades, and they certainly seem to be of the highest caliber.

This week's (month's? quarter's?) budget is gone though -- just ordered the Universal Lathe Tool Rest using the CON500 discount from ordring the Nova Chuck on Monday.

[jsburger]

As I get more serious about my woodworking I am curious about blades for the various SS tools I use including tablesaw, bandsaw, and scrollsaw.

As far as the tablesaw function, I'm looking for recomendations on both dado blades, and the Forrest blades - which would be best for a 1 3/4 horse PowerPro?

Bandsaw -- I'm starting to do some resawing, and also everyday smaller blade work, and have notices lots of brand names bandied about.

Scroll saw: Right now I have a bunch of Craftsman blades I bought on closeout a few years back. I don't know if there is a whole lotta difference in scroll blades, but worth askin' anyway.

And -- anything else I should be asking? Hmm. WoodworkerII blades -- which arbor? Do I need the stabilizer? I'm sure I'm missing a lot of needed info and questions, but perhaps a starting point.

Table Saw - I have a full complement of SS carbide blades. I think they are actually very good blades. About 12 or 13 years ago I bought a 40 tooth Forest Woodworker II and never looked back. Forest blades are great. I use mine for just about everything. It is very hard to tell the difference between the sawn edge and a jointed edge. I bought the 5/8" bore because it was available locally but Forrest will bore it to 1 1/4" if you wish. No stabilizer necessary. I used it for over 10 years before I thought it needed sharpening. I sent it back to the factory and they turned it around in 3 days, the price was right and they brought it back to original specs.

Band Saw - Hands down Timberwolf. I bought a 5/8" wood slicer from Highland Woodworking because of all the hype. To be honest the 1/2" Timberwolf resaws just as well as the Wood Slicer. They tend to be a bit more expensive than other brands if you buy them from a reseller. However, if you buy them directly from the manufacturer Suffolk Machinery they are a lot cheaper. They do know what a SS band saw is.

Scroll Saw - That is my wife's domain. She uses Olsen and Flying Dutchman and likes them both.

[charlese]

Well, Well, Well,

I have been very happy with Shopsmith saw blades, some SS router bits, a SS biscuit joiner, and a cheap adjustable dado blade. Other router bits have come from various sets - also inexpensive. Guess I don't know what I've been missing (sarcastic)

Geeze! Just think how much more I could have paid - for what?

All ya gotta do is learn how to sharpen and keep your blades sharp!

P.S. I have a complete set of the basic Shopsmith lathe tools although I have added an expensive fingernail bowl gouge.

[paulrussell]

That's what I love about the forums. Near constant absolute agreement.