Workshop Improvement Project

[paulrussell]

I've been in my new workshop for about two years, and have finally figured out how I want to store my SPTs and other workshop supplies.

Here was my workshop last week, with some SPTs balanced on a Workmate which I can never use because I always have SPTs stacked on it. Misc other things are just leaned up against the wall all around the room.



Yesterday I made some 3.5" oak french cleats for the wall and today I mounted them:



Next I used my trusty computer to design an SPT mount and my CNC to cut it. Next one will be a bit different, but it is a keeper none-the-less:

[paulrussell]

Oh, anticipating the question of how the mount stays on the cleat when removing the SPT:

[paulrussell]

Next version will have 1/4 alignment holes in the mounting plate, and when I glue the three pieces together, I'll use a 1/4" dowl to align them, thus insuring the 1.25" holes are in alignment. This time I used SPT posts to align.

[paulsgreenbarn]

Heck,once you get the positions figured out ,just screw them to the cleat. That setup looks great.

[rcplaneguy]

Nice!

[paulrussell]

I've been asked for the design for the SPT mount. Attached is a PDF of the prototype, which I glued and screwed together. I can provide SVG, DWG, or CRV3d files if anyone has a CNC.

This will hold the bandsaw or the belt sander. I still have to check the jointer to see if it fits or will need some tweaking.

That said, I will be updating the design to add rabbits/dados for better alignment and mating, and will post the update when done.

EDIT: The jointer drive clears the back plate, but the dust collector interferes with the front edge, so the jointer mount will need tweaking.

I did notice a happy happenstance, more on that later once I have it implemented.

[roy_okc]

I've been asked for the design for the SPT mount. Attached is a PDF of the prototype, which I glued and screwed together. I can provide SVG, DWG, or CRV3d files if anyone has a CNC.

Paul,

This is a nice project. Did you angle the bottoms of your cleat boards as well?

Could you please post the CRV3d file(s)? I'm back to using my CNC after a couple years of inactivity due to laser purchase and lack of space. I currently have VCP 6.5, but plan to upgrade to Aspire V8 in the coming days as soon as I can verify that I can go directly to 8 without 4.5 in between.

Thanks,
Roy

[paulrussell]

Roy,

As far as beveling the bottoms -- No I didn't, but I might rethink that decision. My stop-block works, but not as well as I had hoped.

Let me know if either of these work for you. I haven't upgraded to 8 yet, so one is 4.5, and the other is 3.5 format.

EDIT: Ok, doesn't look like the forum will allow the files. Msg me with your email and I'll send them.

EDIT2: After waxing the mounting tube holes, the existing stop block seems adequate. Mount does move a bit removing tool; beveled lower edge would be a more solid connection. If I do decide to go that route, all I would need to do is replace the stop-block. And as a previous poster noted, a screw would do wonders. However, after making the rails look all pretty, I don't want to put holes in them. The whole point of the French cleat (to me) is that I can re-arrange as needed.

[roy_okc]

Roy,

As far as beveling the bottoms -- No I didn't, but I might rethink that decision. My stop-block works, but not as well as I had hoped.

Let me know if either of these work for you. I haven't upgraded to 8 yet, so one is 4.5, and the other is 3.5 format.

EDIT: Ok, doesn't look like the forum will allow the files. Msg me with your email and I'll send them.

EDIT2: After waxing the mounting tube holes, the existing stop block seems adequate. Mount does move a bit removing tool; beveled lower edge would be a more solid connection. If I do decide to go that route, all I would need to do is replace the stop-block. And as a previous poster noted, a screw would do wonders. However, after making the rails look all pretty, I don't want to put holes in them. The whole point of the French cleat (to me) is that I can re-arrange as needed.

Paul,

PM sent.

Another alternative you might consider is for the vertical backer to span two cleats and still keep your stop block. That should eliminate any chance of the mount lifting up or away from the wall.

[paulrussell]

Roy -- good idea! And email sent.

EDIT: I really need to think things through before clicking SUBMIT.

I hadn't extended to the lower rail so as to leave an option to hang something there. However it just occurred to me that if I mount the "lower wall stop" with carriage bolts similar to how I did the stop block, I could have it long and adjustable to accommodate possible variations in cleat spacing, or just put a small stop like the original.