dusty wrote:I don't know. I'll do that and let you know.
A problem with this entire exercise is that sometimes the noise level is much less. The squeal is intermittent (on/off).
One thing I get off and on is the upper part of the front cover vibrating. If I squeeze it against the main casting just below the SS label it stops.
I have upgraded the three backup bearings to the double bearings per LDH. I also have the Carter bearing guides. The band saw is mounted on a SS power stand (not the power station). The bearings and guides were upgraded so long ago that I don't fully remember what it sounded like before. My recollection is however that it made things quieter.
I think the SS band saw is just inherently noisy for what ever reason. My Powermatic 14" band saw is quieter than the SS. Part of the reason for sure is motor noise. The Powermatic motor is completely enclosed in the base. The SS motor is hanging out in the open. That accounts for part of it but by all means not all of it.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
dusty wrote:I don't know. I'll do that and let you know.
A problem with this entire exercise is that sometimes the noise level is much less. The squeal is intermittent (on/off).
That intermittent squeal might be endemic. Mine used to do that and a couple other guys' saws I've used squealed like that, too.
As I remember mine would have that intermittent squeal and it usually stopped when I started cutting. Since I made the upgrades described above the squeal is gone completely.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
OKAY I was weakening and then I read the Carter web page regarding the Band Saw Guide Upgrade Kit.
It appears to me that the upgrade kit eliminates the cool blocks but does nothing with regard to the back up bearings. Is this correct?
I have no complaints about the cool blocks except that if they are not adjusted properly they don't work correctly. Can you imagine that!
Quote Carter ... "The Carter Shopsmith conversion kit updates your saws performance through the use of all sealed ball bearing roller guides. This provides your saw with reduced blade friction and improved cutting accuracy. The kit contains both upper and lower roller bearing side support assemblies, which work in conjunction with the existing Shopsmith thrust bearing".
The Carter video demos are impressive!!!
But I am attempting to solve a noise problem and not a cutting issue. What is there about the Carter products that should make me think they will resolve the noise issue?
Yes, some have reported that their machines are quieter after installing Carter parts. Mine are quieter, too, after installing new bearings (but only for a while and some times only a short while). This is why I don't believe the stated problem is a function of the "bearing action".
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I have stated my OPINION previously that the squeal comes from the back of the blade 'skewing' against the guide bearings. An opinion since I have no hard proof other than lightly touching the squealing bearings which causes the squeal to cease. If the blade path is not tangent to the bearing outer race and perpendicular to the axis, slipping has to occur as the blade moves past the bearing. Differing tension and friction will alter the squealing.
I also think the double guide bearings 'help' prevent said skewing but do not totally eliminate it.
I do not think those 'quieter' saws have 'guide' bearings.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Dusty. All I can say is that after installing the new Carter guides and adjusting everything as per instructions, the blade doesn't touch the thrust bearing when not cutting and just barely when cutting. And the intermittent squeal is gone. This is with the 5/8 blade. So far, I've not used a different sized blade.
It seems that we may be in total agreement on this issue and the contributing factors but I still don't know what to do about it. So, I shall keep muddling along doing what I am doing until either I resolve my issue or I give up.
Right now I have six bearings installed as auto-track and back up bearings. The back up bearings are not aligned properly with the blade but the band saw is "quieter". This has always been the case, however. New bearings seem to eliminate the noise but this has proven to be short lived.
Now I am wondering about the Shopsmith back up bearings (#63 and #98). These bearings are each 3mm wider than the bearings used for the auto-track. When two of them are used in lieu of the back up bearing, the combination is 4mm wider.
Why are the back up bearings wider than the auto track bearing?
dusty wrote:It seems that we may be in total agreement on this issue and the contributing factors but I still don't know what to do about it. So, I shall keep muddling along doing what I am doing until either I resolve my issue or I give up.
Right now I have six bearings installed as auto-track and back up bearings. The back up bearings are not aligned properly with the blade but the band saw is "quieter". This has always been the case, however. New bearings seem to eliminate the noise but this has proven to be short lived.
Now I am wondering about the Shopsmith back up bearings (#63 and #98). These bearings are each 3mm wider than the bearings used for the auto-track. When two of them are used in lieu of the back up bearing, the combination is 4mm wider.
Why are the back up bearings wider than the auto track bearing?
The original rear guide bearing was wider. I have not measured them to see if they were the same as the lower guide and upper backup bearing.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
You and I are using slightly different terminology.
The pair of bearings on the left side I have referred to as the auto-track bearing. The two bearings together form a "track" in which the blade can ride. I don't know why but I sorta believe that track is necessary.
The other two bearings I refer to as back up bearings. In my opinion they serve no purpose except to prevent the blade from tracking too far back on that side of the wheels. It is these bearings that are 10mm wide while the auto-track bearings are each 7mm wide.
When you, JPG, speak of the original rear guide bearing - to which bearing do you refer.
BTW, right now I have a pair of 627ZZ bearings in the auto-track position and one each 627ZZ in each of the back up bearing positions. I have not done any extensive testing yet but I am seeing no reason why the two back up bearings need to be 10mm wide. Cutting a few curves may show me why!!
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
If I hear them, I know two things - 
. One of shop features! If stuff ain't broke - enjoy the sounds