Carriage Lock Assembly removal

[dusty]

Is it only the Base Arm 518381(#24) that you cannot get off of the Way Tubes??

When using a strap wrench, I assume to rotate the tubes, do you have both ends of the tubes inserted into the Base Arm and the Headrest?? I would suggest that this is necessary so as to maintain parallelism between the tubes.

A rubber mallet applied aggressively to the Base Arm may do the trick but it may break the cast aluminum Base Arm.

Hmmm, salt water, aluminum and steel .. bad news.

[dgreen810]

I agree with Dusty. Salt water, aluminum and steel!!

I believe as a last resort I would try soaking in CLR or Lime away. I believe you have calcium deposits.

Don G

[rte66]

Victory! At least with the carriage lock. Heated again with a torch, torqued it with a huge set of pliers while beating on the other side of the handle with a hammer. Finally came loose.

I wonder if any one makes zirk fittings that would screw into the set screw holes. An application of grease under pressure might help. Hmmmm. . .

[dusty]

Victory! At least with the carriage lock. Heated again with a torch, torqued it with a huge set of pliers while beating on the other side of the handle with a hammer. Finally came loose.

I wonder if any one makes zirk fittings that would screw into the set screw holes. An application of grease under pressure might help. Hmmmm. . .

OKAY, this is good news but let's make certain whether we have resolved all issues. You thread seems to introduce two "major issues". One being the carriage lock and the other being the Way Tubes that cannot be removed from the Base Arm.

The carriage lock issue is resolved but the Way Tubes are still a problem. Make sure that the set screws that lock the way tubes in their respective sockets have been "removed".

[dusty]

Need to take a 510 down to its component parts for complete restoration. Cannot remove the carriage lock assembly. I have driven out the roll pin that retains the handle to the threaded shaft, but cannot remove the handle. Have soaked in penetrating oil, with no luck.

Is the shaft threaded on to the handle, or just press fit?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

rte66

Now that you have been successful, will you please confirm whether the shaft is threaded for the handle. I have looked at mine and I do not believe it is. It appears to be pinned only with a roll pin through the handle and shaft.

[rte66]

The shaft IS threaded into the handle, the end of the shaft has a groove through which the roll pin passes.

[JPG]

Have removed the set screws, but the tubes will not budge. They were immersed in water during a hurricane, and bimetallic corrosion is the villain I believe. Have soaked in penetrating for months, heated, broken 2 strap wrenches, and have run out of ideas. What kind of business could provide assistance; machine shop? Getting to the point in the restoration that the tubes will need to start cooperating.

You may need to sacrifice the casting to salvage the tubes.(drive it off).

A hole drilled through the tube at the far end(where the tie bar would cover it) may allow twisting and/or driving the tube. At least a 3/8" through hole.

Definitely last resort!

[dusty]

The shaft IS threaded into the handle, the end of the shaft has a groove through which the roll pin passes.

Thank you for the response. Now I am going to have to drive the roll pin out to determine whether mine also has threads.

[JPG]

The shaft IS threaded into the handle, the end of the shaft has a groove through which the roll pin passes.

Thank you for the response. Now I am going to have to drive the roll pin out to determine whether mine also has threads.

If yours is not threaded, it would be the first I am aware of.

Belay that!!! I am thinking re a '500'.

[everettdavis]

Victory! At least with the carriage lock. Heated again with a torch, torqued it with a huge set of pliers while beating on the other side of the handle with a hammer. Finally came loose.

I wonder if any one makes zirk fittings that would screw into the set screw holes. An application of grease under pressure might help. Hmmmm. . .

Look at http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... 16438.html

Been using grease zerks for years to do just that, but this latest find, coupled with 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone, which I have also used for years may help a bunch to inject what you need where you need it.

There's a link to Dusty's post on what size set-screws are used in everything Shopsmith.

Hope it helps.