bshaff wrote:I think my problem was that when I replaced the idler bearings 2 years ago I did not replace the ecentric bushing and I think that causes it to be loose. I put the old idler bearing in and it fits fine and stopped my knocking. I ordered a new ecentric bushing for the new idler bearings and in the future will put them together and hopefully it will work. Until then I will use the old one. Question: How hot is the machine suppose to run? The upper part where the quill is only on the other side of the headstock is real hot to the touch after about 1 hr of lathe work.
Thanks,
Do I understand you replaced the idler shaft/bearing with the new style and did NOT also replace the eccentric with the new style?
Bingo!
The new style eccentric is open at the bottom so as to 'squeeze' the bearings as the headstock clamp is tightened. The old style is closed at the bottom, so no squeeze = sloppy.
The machine gets quite hot with continuous running.
New style eccentric should fix the slop. Yes run with the old style until then.
If you noticed the 'hot' with the new shaft etc, it may be caused by the misalignment. It would likely run cooler with new drive shaft bearings though. If you can touch it reasonably comfortably, it likely is 'normal'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
bshaff wrote:I think my problem was that when I replaced the idler bearings 2 years ago I did not replace the ecentric bushing and I think that causes it to be loose. I put the old idler bearing in and it fits fine and stopped my knocking. I ordered a new ecentric bushing for the new idler bearings and in the future will put them together and hopefully it will work. Until then I will use the old one. Question: How hot is the machine suppose to run? The upper part where the quill is only on the other side of the headstock is real hot to the touch after about 1 hr of lathe work.
Thanks,
I am glad to hear that you have found a way to reduce the knocking noise but I am skeptical about the idler shaft and eccentric 'mismatch' being the root cause.
I have two new idler shafts with bearings and eccentrics and I have one old style idler shaft and eccentric. The eccentrics are interchangeable on all three idler shafts with no discernible mechanic slop. The old eccentric measures approximately .002" larger ID (1.081" - 1.082" than either of the two new eccentrics. The bearings (on all three shafts) measure 1.079" - 1.080".
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
bshaff wrote:I think my problem was that when I replaced the idler bearings 2 years ago I did not replace the ecentric bushing and I think that causes it to be loose. I put the old idler bearing in and it fits fine and stopped my knocking. I ordered a new ecentric bushing for the new idler bearings and in the future will put them together and hopefully it will work. Until then I will use the old one. Question: How hot is the machine suppose to run? The upper part where the quill is only on the other side of the headstock is real hot to the touch after about 1 hr of lathe work.
Thanks,
I am glad to hear that you have found a way to reduce the knocking noise but I am skeptical about the idler shaft and eccentric 'mismatch' being the root cause.
I have two new idler shafts with bearings and eccentrics and I have one old style idler shaft and eccentric. The eccentrics are interchangeable on all three idler shafts with no discernible mechanic slop. The old eccentric measures approximately .002" larger ID (1.081" - 1.082" than either of the two new eccentrics. The bearings (on all three shafts) measure 1.079" - 1.080".
That proves thee does not have the sloppy eccentric. Remember his does have slop. Methinks his is greater than 1.080.
I am convinced the new eccentric is open at the bottom intentionally to allow the headstock clamp to squeeze the eccentric and then the bearing(s). Very small squeeze range.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
All I said was that I was "skeptical". I doubt that the bearings have a smaller OD and I would be real surprised to hear that the old eccentric has a larger ID. Not enough to cause a "knocking noise".
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:All I said was that I was "skeptical". I doubt that the bearings have a smaller OD and I would be real surprised to hear that the old eccentric has a larger ID. Not enough to cause a "knocking noise".
Have a different explanation for his 'wobble'?
The most plausible explanation is I believe the difference in the way the bearings are retained in the eccentric.(set screw vs squeeze and screw/washer).
His old style bearing may be the cause of the wobble, but such is rare AIUI.
Hopefully the new eccentric will solve this 'dilemma'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Remember his does have slop. Methinks his is greater than 1.080.